My Very Own World

(三)、緬甸篇-菩薩捻花微笑的國度

之

(3-1.1).曼德勒之路
      Myanmar - A Country to where,Buddhisattva holds a flower to smile at.

The Road to Mandalay.

第一次來，先選基本款，三城一湖當作是主要遊覽地點(仰光、曼德勒、浦甘、和茵萊湖)。
從清邁搭機去北方大城-曼德勒市，也是緬甸第二大城市，曼德勒市的國際機場近年新開通多條航線，新加坡有班機直達，台灣要轉機。
從機場到市中心我搭計程車，40分鐘的路程約USD15(大概啦，我忘了)，不會很貴，反正我也沒其他選項，又不想跟人家一起併車，我先在機場裡面換了一點錢，又買了當地的SIM卡，才離開，

價錢沒有比在台灣先買起來貴，而計程車當場有人管理，統一報價，價格相同，所以我不用神經緊張去殺價。
Well, being the first time here,
A typical route was what I was about to take in next few weeks,
the 3 main cities and one lake(Mandalay,Bagan,Yongan,and Lake Inle.)

I arrived at the Mandalay's airport from Chiang Mai.Mandalay is the 2nd largest city in Myanmar.

It's only logic that many new airliners start to land here directly from their own countries,like from Singapore.

As to Taiwan,passengers of Taiwan need to transfer in Bangkok,Singapore,or other 3rd location.(There's an ocean between,lol.)

I took a taxi from the airport to the city center.It's about USD15(I am kinda forgotten now),40 minutes' distance.

It wasn't expensive,besides,I didn't really have other choice to take,and I didn't like to squeeze into a same taxi with other people.
Anyway,I exchanged a little money at the airport,bought a local Sim card for my mobile,and then left.
The price of Sim card wasn't expensive,either,compared to have one directly in Taiwan.
There were people handling the taxi business for passengers at the airport,same price for everyone.

Thus,it saved me time to haggle with the cabbies.

機場到市區的路已經鋪好柏油路，雖然兩旁還沒有建設好，但是我本來就沒有什麼期待，所以感覺還好，不知道是我搭的車子輪胎沒有風，

還是路太過不平，跳得滿厲害的。
The roads from the airport to city center had been paved well with asphalt,

though there weren't many buildings along either side of the road before entering the city.
However,I felt it's all right.

Actually,I didn't know what I expected in the very beginning.
And I wondered if my taxi's wheels were flatten a little? or was it the road?
I was quite bumping and jumping along the way.

印象中緬甸開發有點晚，擔心甚麼都要自己來，會很操勞，選了市中心火車站對面的飯店，因為比較新一點，而且緬甸物價便宜，所以也懶得去住青年旅館，我在西班牙住一堆青年旅館，不管是衣衫不整、奶要露到地上、還是放屁，我只最怕同寢室有人打呼，我超級會被打呼驚醒的，之後，打死我都儘量不去住青年旅館，火車站附近一般都是生活機能比較強，但是也較亂一點，可是這邊我覺得很好，很方便，治安也不錯，有點出乎意料之外，另外市中的知名景點-皇宮，走路也可以到，約30分鐘以內，但是我為了保養腳，所以租了台摩特車代步，跟飯店說了，飯店就幫我都準備起來，而且價錢竟然跟我自己在外面問的一樣，怎麼這麼老實?不是沿路一直殺嗎?所以連要往南去浦甘的巴士票也一樣跟飯店櫃檯買起來，車子屆時會來飯店接人。

緬甸路上很多摩特車，相較中國和印度讓人神經衰弱，倒沒有很吵，可是停在路邊等待載客的很多，在皇宮護城河旁散步，時不時就有人來攬客，

我自己有租摩特車，所以都回絕了，只是我發現緬甸人的促銷態度太弱了，他們臉皮竟然很薄!!是因為開放沒有很久的關係嗎?

這真是太特殊了，特別是在浦甘，因為我從沒遇過這麼怕看臉色的國家，哪像我在中東，中東人死纏爛打也要你買。

(比如，"先生、先生，你要買紙內褲嗎?"
"我不要!"，"可是很吸水捏，買一個咩~"，"我沒用到"，"你不買我就死給你看"，"那你去啊!"，"那你等下要去哪裡?"，

"我...關你屁事...!!"，

搞到最後會讓我都懷疑自己是會漏尿才買的那種。)
There were many motorcycles running in the street,but unlike in China or India,I didn't get irritated by horns.
Some people parked their cars or motorcycles by the curbs and they would approach to you trying to sell you a tour with their cars or scooters.

I had had a lot of offers when I took a walk along the moat of the Palace.

However,I had my own scooter with me,so I declined all those good bargains.

這邊的人你跟他說不要，竟然就開始要默默離開，喂~好歹也多說個一、二句， 等我不耐煩地說不要、不要，才可以離開，好嗎? 這樣促銷很沒有Feel捏。
所以知道了吧，在這裡，你如果有跟人家殺價，給了人家一個價錢，賣方也答應了，

請要完成交易，不要沒有禮貌的耍人家，不然就一開始跟人家說你不要買。

拿起手機，用Google Map查了附近景點，在頂樓餐廳邊吃早餐邊決定要去哪裡，搭了電梯下樓，忽然停電了，

騎了車就走，市區的馬路品質沒有很好，離市區遠一點的地方，有些還是黃土路呢，決定先去皇宮溜達溜達，宮城外的四周道路是主要動脈，車水馬龍的，

由於是重點觀光地點，護城河岸整理得很乾淨漂亮，若不是天氣太熱了，真想多散步一些時候。
Hoped on my scooter,I went towards the Palace.
The road quality wasn't so ideal.Some roads away from center were dirt and yellow muddy roads.
The traffic around the Palace was the artery lines.Cars and motorcycles were many and crowded in the main tourist spot for sure.

The banks of the moat were managed very excellent,clean and neat.
I would very much like to take a long walk on it,if it weren't for the sultry weather.

沒想到面對火車站這邊方向的宮門是軍方專用，必須往右邊城牆的出入口去，路過希爾頓大飯店，豪華奢侈形象看起來還比較像皇宮，

現在寫這篇的時候才想起來，怎麼沒有進去消費一下，我如果穿著拖鞋進去五星級大飯店，一定很好玩。
The entrance facing to the direction of the center train station was only for army,which I didn't have thought of.
I needed then to go pass the Hotel Hilton,and then kept on walking to the eastern wall.
The appearances of the 5-starred Hotel Hilton looked more luxury than the real palace.
It just came to my mind that I should have paid a visit to its cafe shop inside,when I wrote this article.
I am thinking it would be very funny to step into a 5-starred hotel in my flip-flops.

到了那邊大門入口相反方向的那一條路上有間大賣場，有冷氣，是的，在緬甸的店家很少有人有裝冷氣，賣場前面有讓客人停車的地方，

免錢的，挖靠，這麼幸運，回程的時候去賣場裡面超市買了一包冰塊，好大一包不用台幣10元，太熱了，不吃點冰塊降溫不行。
There's a large shopping mall on the opposite direction of the road to the main entrance at the right wall.
It was air-conditioned.Yes, in Myanmar I seldom found shops or stores with air conditioners.
The parking lot in the front space was free of charge.
Wow~lucky,I thought.
I had bought a large pack of ice cubes in the supermarket of the shopping mall.It only costed US$0.30/pack.
It was really too hot to not use ice cubes,or I might have stroke soon.

皇城的牆內不全是都開放，軍方佔據多處，也是士兵操練場所，只有皇宮有開放給大眾。
拿著護照在入口質押，換一張證件，出去時還要繳回去換護照回來，走到裡面宮殿的大門還要走20分鐘，對我剛好，我喜歡這樣慢慢逛，

入口處有很多載客的摩特車，我就不用了。
The area of the old castle is shared with the military units,and some parts are developed to be training camps.

Thus,only the royal palace is open to the public.
They gave me an admission pass in exchanging of holding my passport at the entrance.

I can get it back when giving them back the pass after I finished the tour.
The distance from the entrance to the palace gate took me by 20 minutes on foot.I liked it this way for I loved to walk on the road with my own feet.

If you don't like to walk that long,there are many scooters working like taxies at the entrance you can take any of them by merely fee only.

我在世界各地參觀過很多不同皇宮，但是曼德勒這間幾乎全是木造，沒有在戰爭燒掉，真是好狗運，宮殿逐漸往後擴展，以木板整修地面成平地，

走在上面很舒服，宮殿進去要脫鞋，在緬甸寺廟和很多展場進去參觀都要脫鞋，像皇宮這麼大的地方，

我都會自行準備一個塑膠袋，鞋子脫好就放入袋子，再收進後背包，免得出來還要東找西找。
Actually,I have visited many different types of palaces in many continents.Nonetheless,this palace in Mandalay was almost built with wooden materials.

It was really lucky not to burn down during the wartime.
The Palace then was gradually expanding towards the back.Wooden planks were put to solve the uneven ground levels.

Thus,it was comfortable to thread on it with my bare feet.
In Myanmar,I had to take off my shoes when entering every exhibition or temple,not to mention a place as large as the Palace.
Usually,I would bring me with a large plastic bag for my flip-flops.I'd put my shoes into my backpack after inserted them into the plastic bag,

so that I didn't need to find their whereabout at the gate,after I finished my tour.

緬甸天氣太熱，當地人習慣穿拖鞋，在正式場所也是，我平時會穿球鞋去參觀博物館，在緬甸可以只穿拖鞋出門，剛好穿脫方便，

只是...真的連襪子也省了吧，雖然看起來有人會打掃，但是不會真的很乾淨，就光著腳比較好。
It was really dame hot.The local people were used to wearing flip-flops,even in an official occasion.
I would put on my sneakers as a habit of mine for museums.Owing to tackle the convenience of shoe's rule here,

I was kind of following locals' customs to just have a pair of flip-flops when going outdoors.
It's terrifying hot,so really,please,socks could be not necessary as well.
The floors usually were cleaned by managers or employees at sites,however,they were not really that clean.
Hence,it would be better just to keep my feet bare.

(圖)曼德勒皇宮 The Museum of Mandalay Royal Palace

皇宮是很好悠游一番的好地方，日照的地方炙熱，日陰的地方涼爽，在各宮室之間穿梭，剛好躲一下太陽，內宮各殿的牆壁也是木板材質，可以整片直接像窗戶般翻起來，通風的功用很明顯。宮牆之內是這般輝煌過，真的很不錯玩，範圍不小，感覺值得票價，另外前面區域中的圓形高塔是瞭望台，

是緬甸傳統建築形式，同樣的建築物可以在浦甘一家新開的飯店可以看到，稱為"南明塔"，是觀賞日落的新景點。
瞭望塔的階梯也是木製，爬著爬著高處風吹漸勁，開始感覺有點晃動，塔頂地面也是木板，些許有點翻起，有點破洞，行不行啊?

看著人潮漸多，我還是快閃，免得又激發我的懼高症發作。

The Palace was an ideal site for rambling without particularly purposes.Sun was shining and boiling,but cool  when hidden in places under shades.

I felt easier loitering for a while away from sun's brutality.
Inner halls ,houses,and pagodas massively used wooden materials,it's the same for their walls and ceilings,

which could be flipped open for the purpose of ventilation.

It was once absolutely extravagant in the past for sure.
I had been full of energetically inspiration, while I was treading on every nook and crack inside the walls of the palace.
The area it covers is not small,so I thought the ticket worthed more than its face value.

The spiral watch tower was built based on Myanmar's traditional form.It is the same as the Nan Ming Tower,

a newly built starred hotel,a new site for appreciating the sunsetting in Bagan.

The stairs of the tower were made of wooden planks,so was the floor.I could sense the subtle wavering when on the top.

There were broken ruptures on the floor,some planks were not evenly placed.Anyway,after a while,more people were up to the tower,

and I felt so unsecured.I then went down before my height vertigo coming to attack me.

皇宮後面鄰近一座小山，就稱為曼德勒山，沿途還有個固都陶塔廟，市區反正也沒什麼可看，機車騎了就嘟嘟走。
There is a little hill behind the palace area,called "Mt.Mandalay",and a pagoda along the way,Pagoda Kuthodaw.
Basically,there was not much to attract me in the city,so off I went on my scooter.

固都陶塔是敏東王於1857年所建，聽說目的是因為英軍入侵後，西方文化漸炙，怕人民從此忘記佛祖的教誨，

特地建了這所寺廟，每一佛塔內放置一頁大理石石刻佛經，號稱是"世界上最大的書本"。
Kuthodaw was built in 1857 by King Ming Don.
The cause of having it built,as I'd heard was that the king worried his people would gradually forgot or slack off to practice Buddhism or the lessons taught by Buddha,

after the invasion of British soldiers that infused western culture into this conservative little nation.
Thus,he built this pagoda particularly to remind everyone of the purports of religion and the foundation of his country's beliefs.
There are hundreds of smaller pagodas in it,and with a leaf of a Buddhist sutra in each pagoda,carved on a plate of marble stone,

collectively it gained the fame of being "The largest Book on earth"...
 

四周小佛塔都漆成白色，只是若沒有好好整潔，近看不是愉快，然而整體壯觀，氣派恢弘，想必當初興建時野心不小，我也覺得這個以書頁為主題的建築很有特色，雖然緬甸文圓圓圈圈的，又有小蝌蚪，我是有看沒有懂，對我根本就是外星文。
All little pagodas in it were painted white.Just I thought if they were not properly managed,it wouldn't have been a nice view to watch when closed up.
All in all,Kuthodaw is magnificent and imposing from the beginning ambition when constructed.Besides,

I thought it was really a good concept to have leaves of a book as the main theme of a memorial building.
However,the language to me was totally a language from Mars,rounded,crossed and little tadpoles as they seemed.

不巧，中央主塔正在維修，正午日陽肆虐正夯，進寺廟要赤腳，害我整路哀哀叫，都已經來了，就照佛教儀規，至少主塔也去繞個一圈，這時腳若踩在磁磚上，就變成鐵板燒，馬上哀哀叫，趕快踏在地毯上，雖然還是很燒，但是感覺好很多，我穿了及膝短褲，寺廟管理的婦人還是堅持不讓我拜，要我圍上當地沙龍，我正滿身燥熱，就敬謝不敏了，自行去亂逛，我不會因為這種事跟人家吵鬧，趕緊退出祭壇，大家互相尊重就好。
What a serendipity! the center tower was under maintenance,plused sun was rampageous at noon.I had to walk on the tiles with bare feet,which made me yell and curse along the way on the trail that circled the main tower.It's a torment that I couldn't avoid,for I was thinking,since I had already been here by flying thousands of miles,

at least I should make a circle around the tower based on the Buddhist rituals.

However,the heat would have diminished a little every time I hopped on the carpet that laid over the ground tiles.

At the pagoda of the compound,the manager lady wouldn't like me to step on the area of altar,dued to my shorts,unless I put on the salon.

A local attire that is usually a piece of long cloth,and is used to wrap around male's waist.
But I was so fidgety dued to the heat,I therefore,declined her offer and walk away for my self-tour.
It's better this way,and it's not worthy of raising a fight with people for this petty trivia,as long as we're all obliged for the general decorum.

緬甸寺廟的塔尖上，經常會掛上銅製皇冠，下垂金屬銅鈴流蘇，當風自高處吹過，會發出叮叮咚咚的響聲，有震攝心靈、安撫情緒的功用，

只是沒有風，就還是一片豔陽，心理滴咕著到底是幾度了?我想地上都可以煎蛋了，騎上車繼續向前走，風吹過來，

唉~還是熱的。
They would usually put on a set of crown made of brass on the tip of every pagoda tower.The metallic tassels with copper bells attached,

hanging from the brass crown on the tip of the tower.
It'd chime when wind blew through from time to time,providing a sense of calmness to the mind.

Nonetheless,it was so hot and sun was still ferocious every where as I had seen.There's no wind,and it was so bright.I couldn't help but murmur and nag to myself,

wondering what celsius degree it was? As I suspected,it might be able to cook eggs done on the ground without using any oven.

I hopped on my scooter and headed on.Wind blowing through my face,and it was...

ay...,hot still.

結束瀏覽固都陶塔，接著又馬不停蹄往曼德勒山去，幸好彼此都不會太遠，機車油箱的汽油還夠，沿路已經來到山下，也沒看到什麼加油站，只剩路旁人家自行裝瓶的汽油可加，照著Google Map去竟然也容易，上山坡度有些地方稍微陡了些，還是慢慢小心地騎上，山上的Su Taung Pyai Pagoda是登高觀賞市區的景點，有4、5樓高的電扶梯上去，下來也有電梯可搭乘，一進門又要脫鞋，地上又不是乾淨，

真沒辦法，緬甸的佛教儀規這方面倒是很要求，寺廟在最高層，當然又是一地燙腳磁磚，一天下來腳底板都要烤熟了。

I quickly headed towards the Mt.Mandalay after the tour in Pagoda Kuthodaw.
It's not too far from Kuthodaw,so my petroleum in tank should have been enough for the way I figured.
There were no gas stations available along the way,but some private vendors that selling oil in bottles by either side of the roads.

It was not difficult to get there,even though I rode according to the instruciton of Google Map.

Some parts of the slopes of the hill were steep,but I went up very slow and cautious.
The Su Taung Pyai Pagoda is the main tourist site for a panoramic view over Mandalay City.
They built a building equipped with a escalator as high as 4 or 5 floors,and there was a lift to get up and down aside.
Jeeze,I needed to take off my shoes again.I had already lost counts of how many times to take off shoes in a day.
The floor was not that clean.But this was it,I couldn't help.
Myanmar is a pious Buddhist country,every religion rule was strictly followed.
The pagoda was in the top floor.
The tiles on the floor were already heated by sun.It seemed be ready to roast my feet.

佛家不講究世俗執著，然而中南半島的各國卻是有妝點佛像是功德的傳統習俗，愈是金光閃閃，愈是華麗最好，只是緬甸的佛像樣式太過特殊，常見細眉、紅唇，如是站立像，很多還有蜂腰，其中我最受不了的是臥佛樣式，我的媽呀~ 佛祖躺著怎麼看怎麼慵懶性感，這腰間線條還真是誇張，

但是，不減眾生虔誠之心，捐獻箱裡面的鈔票，都快要滿出來了，不過別太興奮，緬甸幣值匯率很便宜啦。
One thing in Buddhism is usually enforced greatly,that is not to hold on tight earthy desirs and all forms of property or senses from them,

for which would be like shackles in life in preventing people from pursuing life's true values.

However,countries in the Peninsula have the traditional customs of decorating Buddha statues,for which they consider is a great merit.

Thus,it's the shiniest,the more glamour,the better.

Just...I really thought it's so unique that they built the statues of Buddhas with long and slender eyebrows,sexy red lips,

and even flirting like from the general standing statues by having curving sexy lines in waist.
The most exaggerated form of Buddha here was the reclining one.

To me,it is incredibly unacceptable by having S shape in its waist,like girls at night clubs in tight fitting clothes,emitting indolence and licentious intention.

Really,what the heck !

But,to most people it's apparently more important to worship Gods or Buddha with good wills.

The most common way of showing good wills here was to donate bank notes directly into the donation boxes.Those boxes were all almost full.
But,don't get too excited about this,for Myanmar's currency was extremely low...

高處景色還好，我不想美化旅遊地點，然而離曼德勒市區不遠，所以此處還是建議可來遊玩。另外，緬甸人民的生活與佛教息息相關，生活目前是辛苦一些，但是有開放就有機會，路上遇到的人也親切善良，會有在北部迫害羅興亞村落的事發生，真是感嘆有政治就沒人性，這麼有虔誠信仰的國度，

會在種族仇恨下殺生，平時佛是拜來幹嘛?
The panoramic view was fine,but far from excellent.
I don't want to add fictious images out of truth,or from my true experiences here.
However,the tourist spot is not far from city.So it offers an escape from havoc traffic in city,if you don't have anything to do,it's not bad to visit.

The life style in Myanmar is tightly connected with Buddhism,even though it's kind of harsh in living so far.
As long as the doors keep opening to foreign people,more opportunities would be brought in.And the interaction is for sure to produce more benefits.

People are kind and friendly,so I don't get it why the hatry distorted the mind to start up a horrible genicide against Rohingyas in the north-eastern area.
If love could be worshiped and sacrificed to Buddha,why didn't give it to other human beings?
The political situation is so unlike the imagine that Myanmarians have given me.
Because killing only nurtures hatred,and which disobeys from Buddha's lessons.

想著一會兒，思量不出個道理，天色漸暗，該回去了，當初會想先到這裡，是因為"再見瓦城"這部電影，華人習慣將曼德勒市稱為瓦城，其實曼德勒市並不是，瓦城是個很落後的小村鎮，在曼德勒市的郊外，年輕男女出外做工，給家裡賺錢餬口，現在緬甸是東協成員了，跨國做工也方便許多，有些人護照拿出來，滿滿的都是海關的進出境章，可見中南半島是沒有廉價勞工的煩惱，泰勞不夠，可以從鄰居來補一點人，只是人工便宜的話是無法進步的，我在泰國也碰過不少緬甸來的外勞，價錢低的很，這樣怎麼會有消費? 緬甸還有基礎建設不足、交通運輸落後、電力能源不穩定的缺失，

這些都會無形中吃掉人工便宜的優勢。

I shaked my head after thinking of it for a while,and got no answer.
It's getting dark.I should leave.
It was because the movie,"The Road to Mandalay." which triggered my interests to visit here in the first beginning.
Actually,Chinese people call Mandalay as "City Wa".
However,the real City Wa is InnWa,a very small and rundown village.It locates in the suburban area of Mandalay.

Youngsters go out looking for jobs and mere income to support their families back in Innwa.
Now,Myanmar is a member of ASEAN.Youngsters can go across the borders to other adjacent countries without further complications.
Some even have a passport full of immigrating stamps of customs.
So you see,there's no big problem in labors in Peninsula.

If you lack of working men for your factory in Thailand,you always could get compensated labors from neighboring countries.

Cheap labors is not a quarantee to get economic improvement,no matter in personal or nationwide.

If you don't have enough money in your pocket,how could you consume more out of the daily necessities.
There are more warts to say,like insufficiency of infrastructure,backward development in transportation ,and unsteady electricity,etc.

Thus,cheap labors is not the only decisive factor to win.

.....
摩特車還多租了一天，那麼就決定明天就去近郊玩，有點距離，一天要跑完，就盡量了。
The scooter allowed me to run one more day.Then the suburban area would be my goal for tomorrow's itinerary.
The distance I had planned was quite long.
Thus,I had no idea if I could go through every major sites tomorrow,but I'd try my best.

(一)、中南半島戰紀-曼陀羅華盛開的彼岸，前言。

(二)、泰國篇

(2-1)，浮光掠影曼谷市

(2-2)，赤日曼谷近郊遊

(2-3)，繁忙出逃的悠閒窗口

(2-4).泰北

(三)、緬甸篇-菩薩拈花微笑的國度

(3-1.1)，曼德勒之路

(3-1.2)、戀戀瓦城-曼德勒市衛星鄉鎮

(3-2).心的最初與最終-浦甘王國與娘烏鎮之蘇拉瑪尼佛塔

(3-3)綠草蒼蒼在水一方-茵萊湖與娘水鎮

(3-4).聖地之天外奇蹟-吉諦瑜大金石

(3-5).預見的的未來-仰光

(四)、柬埔寨篇-錢財湧動下的永恆吳哥

(五)、寮國-揭開面目下的驚艷和惆悵

(5-1)，天地壯闊下的一隅天堂-寮國四千美島

(5-2).美麗新視界-寮國三都(百色、永珍、龍波邦)

(六)、越南-轉身向前大步疾駛

(6-1).崛起的新勢力-越南中部峴港