聖城、名城、親愛的...唐吉軻德 @ My Very Own World

西班牙馬德里郊區,Part 2/2

聖城、名城、親愛的...唐吉軻德
The Holy City,A Prestige Town,and my Dear... Don Quijote.

(二)、聖城亞維拉 Holy City,Avila.

一大早就晃到Charmatin 車站去坐車，還睡沒飽，車站內找家咖啡店就先吃一些，馬德里幾個火車站的站內商店都不少，無聊還可以逛一下，是還好，沒有到會讓你逛到想買很多那種，到亞維拉後，出車站直直走段路，就可以到主景點舊城區。

I went to Charmatin Station to take a train in the early morning,feeling sleepy still.There's a cafe shop at the station,where I found myself a seat for a brief breakfast.The train stations in Madrid are usually developed into business complexes as well.If I were bored,they provided a good exercise for window shopping.

It was good,but not enough to incite me to buy a lot.

Anyway,when arrived in Avila,I went straight and down to the road in front of the train station.Walked a little,then I reached to the main tourist site.

亞維拉算是很保守傳統的城鎮，全程充滿濃烈的宗教氣息，氣質算是獨樹一幟。
這座城因為大德蘭修女成聖而知名，聖彼得門徒教堂(Parish of St. Peter the Apostle)就正對舊城門入口，中間隔著大廣場，古城門口旁就有相對應景的大德蘭聖人紀念雕像，等於說明此城緣由，這樣倒也簡單明瞭，聖人的聖蹟在公共場所不斷介紹，充滿了"神蹟"故事，她是天主教中苦修型人物的代表，天寒地凍中仍然赤腳走動，涅槃後，其遺體受到各城邦的爭取，這個要一塊，那個也要一點，就分屍給眾生供養了，而最能代表聖物的心臟，也驗證了有天使利箭刺痕，更增神蹟，

想知道更多她的事蹟，在訪玩古城牆時，可以向入口櫃台借語音導覽，費用含在票價裡(意思就是不想聽也可以不要拿，不用另外付錢)。

The religious atmosphere is so dense in the air, that makes Avila a conservative town,which could be seen as a peculiar style among all its established peers.

The town was famous for St.Teresa of Avila.
When I reached to the plaza in front of the old castle gate,a church,Parish of St. Peter the Apostle was located in opposite to it.A large plaza was set in between them.

The statue made for the commemoration of St.Teresa was set beside the gate,which literally explained somehow the story of the castle ,

and which made clear and simple to comprehend the town's background story.

The saint was introduced constantly in public occasions.She was full of miraculous stories,or you might think they were mysterious or superstitious.
St.Teresa is the representative figure of ascetic practice in Christianity.She usually bared her feet in a freezing cold weather.

After her death,so many towns or kingdoms wanted her sacred body to worship.
So this wanted a piece,and that also wanted a piece.You could imagine her being dismembered into many pieces.And the most sacred part of a human being is the heart(according to religion),so her heart came to verify the legendary rumor.A heart pierced by an archi-angel,which only making the legend even more legendary.

Visitors can borrow audio devises when touring around the castle walls from the entrance center counter that sells tickets.

It includes in the ticket price,you don't need to pay additionally.

古時主教座堂(亞維拉大教堂，西班牙最早期的教堂之一，建於1091。)，這座教堂是很特別的，因為是古時城鎮軍事防禦設施的一部分，後面連著城牆建成一塊，無違和感，

要登上城牆玩耍，得從後面靠近外城牆的"入口"買票上去，我看入口上面還標了"屠夫(肉販)之家"，有點驚奇，不過裡面不是賣肉的，像旅客服務中心啦。
登上城牆逛上一圈很是舒服，景色很美，只是城牆上有些裂縫稍微大了些，要小心有帶小朋友遊玩的安全，可不要頑皮摔下去了。

Cathedral of Avila was built in 1091,and is one of the earliest groups of churches.It can be seen special,because,in old times,its construction was part of the army defense.Its rear wall is a period of the whole castle wall,and it looks quite fit.

The entrance was set in the back wall that closes to the outer wall.You need to buy a ticket for the tour.
I looked up the sign hanging on top of the doors,saying "Casa De Las Carnicerias(Home of Butchers)"
.I was surprised to read it though.However,it was like a tourist service center,not a butchers' shop.So,no need to be serious.

I felt comfortable and was indulged myself in the picturesque view,when strolling on the top of the castle walls.
However,I'd found some cracks between walls were kind of big.Parents with little kids should have paid more attention to the safety when touring on the top,

for it would not be a funny thing to fall down at all.

古城牆下也開發成斜坡公園，情人們三不五時可以席地而坐談談天，我總覺得西班牙是錢很多嗎?每個城鎮人口並不比台灣的多，感覺起來公共建設卻不缺少，

藍天、綠草、還有黃金色的城牆，很美呢(等一下! 這些不用錢!哈哈)。

The slopes along the outer castle walls were cultivated to be a wide band of meadow.Occasionally there were lovers could be seen sitting here and there.
I couldn't help but think if Spain a rich country?
The average popoulation of a single town is not large,if compared to Taiwan's.
,but the infrastructural construction can be seen everywhere providing town's people with blue sky,green meadow,and golden castle walls,

which are really scenery.(Wait! those are free of charge,aren't them? haha.)

閒來沒事，跟著路標一路就晃到了城外著名"四支柱"景點，這是羅馬時期遺留的建物，現今只剩下山坡上4個柱子的骨架，但是位置超好，回望亞維拉古城，景色很是不錯，

只是地點小，小心遊客大家都要拍照，那就會有點煩，路徑上是開發成公園連回古城，所以欣賞好景色，慢慢散步回城，不到2公里左右，不長不短。
I was slowly rambling towards the famous tourist spot by following the road signs,after got out of castle,Marador 4 postes.
It was a ruin left from Roman times.Now what it's left was a frame work of 4 posts.
It occupied a wonderful position when looking back at Avila Castle.The view was excellent.
However,it is not a large site,and if visitors came with some quantity,it would look a little bit of crowded.

Since everybody wanted to take pictures,which might be annoying somehow.

The trail leading back to the castle was developed to be a park.

Thus,it was a nice sport to walk back to the old town after touring the 4 posts.It was about 2 kms,not short but certainly not long a distance.

古城古色古香，城內有多處與宗教有關建築和故事，找間餐廳戶外坐坐也是很舒服，回去時買了當地知名代表性的糕餅(Yamas)，是蛋黃、麵粉、再加上超甜配方，回台時吃了一口後，就整盒送家人了，我不喜歡雞蛋的腥味和超級甜的口感，純粹是個人口味太清淡，也許大家有機會可以試試，其中知名店鋪(Santa Teresa)是在未入城門之前的附近糕餅店，這是當地特產，所以應該隨便一家買都是差不多吧。

The surroundings were full of dense historical atmosphere,and there were many buildings and places relevant to religious stories.
I felt it was a pamper to my tired legs to sit on a restaurant chair outdoors.
I went to shop the local special product as a souvenir when going back,a cake called "Yamas".The major ingredients were flour,egg yokes,and formula with extreme sweetness.

I didn't have a chance to eat until I got back home in Taiwan to have my first bite,thereafter I sent it away to my family,haha.

I just don't like the heavy smell of eggs,and it's too sweet for me.My usual taste is quite light,so perhaps you might try yourself if you have the chance.

I bought it at the shop called "Santa Teresa".It was located just out of the gate of the old town,nearby the entrance.

But I think it's Avila's speciality,thus,it should be tasted the same,more or less in every bakery.

(三)、唐吉軻德心繫的托利多古城。

Toledo, in the heart of Don Quijote

出門在外要看天吃飯，如果是短期還可以先查察氣象預報，現在這是沒辦法的，下雨了，大陰天，不知道會怎樣?
雨傘拿了就往Atocha(阿托查)火車站走去，這車站後頭還有個室內熱帶雨林，號稱是"雨林"，啊，不就是小小室內花園，一點點花，都是一些樹(好啦，算有心，哈。)
It is something I can not hold right,the weather.
I can check the forecast before going out of door to short-term tour.
Now I couldn't avoid it,since I had been in Europe for months.It was raining,a big-assed overcast day.

I wondered what it would become for today though.

I carried an umbrella heading to Atocha Train Station.
The station had an indoor rainforest in the back.Well,rainforest my as...
It was a small garden with few flowers and many tall trees(Fine,a rainforest it was.Ha)

買了車票往托利多市去，現在只要有車可以到，我都不再緊張兮兮的，托利多火車站到站後，也不知道要往哪裡去，不過到這裡玩的遊客也多，跟著大家走，

方向就一定對的(右手邊)，出了火車站的鐵柵門，一會兒到了交流道的圓形安全島，對面就是往山上的路，古城都嘛建在高處，當然是往上走了，

喔! 雨停了呢...

I bought a ticket with the destination to Toledo.
As long as the train could reach,I wasn't afraid of any moment of having a heart arrest any longer,haha.
I stepped out of the train station in Toledo,had no idea where to go next.
However,it seemed Toledo attracted many visitors today.So,I walked along with everybody,believing all visitors were going to the same direction(Right hand side,please).

I passed over the iron gate of the train station,soon reached to the circle island in the intersection ahead.The route going up to the hill in the opposite street must be the right direction,for all castles were built in the high hill.It wouldn't be wrong to go up.

Oh! the rain stopped falling...

沿著山坡往上走，不久就看到在河的對岸的古城，不禁"哇~"的一聲，這個城規模不小呢。在天然的護城河(太加斯河Tagus River)的這頭看過去，滿有氣勢，很美呢!
I kept going up,soon Toledo castle appeared in the opposite of the river."Wow~"，I exclaimed at my first glance at it.
The scale of Toledo wasn't small at all.It's guarded under a natural moat,River Tagus,and looked absolutely imposing,and of course,beautiful.

過河主橋之一，阿爾坎塔拉橋對面的山壁上，有著一幅磁磚鑲嵌的詩句，是西班牙最為著名的文學作家，塞凡提斯的米歇爾，就是"唐吉軻德"的作者所留下的，

我猜應該是他流亡義大利時留下的，這麼不捨托利多城啊!
I came to one of the main bridges that travesing the river,Bridge Alcantara.A porcelain frame niched in the hill wall opposite to the bridge,coated a paragraph of a poet.

It was written by the most prestiged literatural writer in Spain,Miguel de Cervantes,who is the writer of "Don Quijote".

My guess was this should be done at the time when he was exiled to Italy.From the poetry,I could see how his affection attached to Toledo.

寫的這麼的悲戚，留戀迴盪在山谷長年不去，
我西班牙文不好，意思大概這樣，

He was so sad that his affection to this land echoing in the valley perennially.

Though my Spanish is not good,roughly I translated its meaning as below,

"我要如何才能向金色的太古斯河谷說再見?
在我悲傷的離去後，我的牛羊還能留下什麼?
我哀傷的眼睛裡，再也看不到鬱綠的樹蔭和寬敞的草地。"
What do I have to say goodbye to the Golden Tagus?
What will be left for my cattle when I am sad to leave?
From my sad eyes,I will no longer see these shady trees and wide green meadows.

心下受到感動，進城後看到手工藝品店在賣Q版的唐吉軻德主角的玩偶娃娃，然後就...

"繁華都是夢"再加播"愛不對人"，就給它忘了，公仔太可愛，讓史詩一下子就沒Feel，哈哈。

西班牙不管哪裡都會有賣人形玩偶的小飾品，我有點不懂，這樣會賺到錢嗎?

還不如擺幾台娃娃機比較容易，但是這裡卻開始大量出現唐吉軻德的玩偶了，一胖一瘦的當地特產。

I felt so touched right at the spot,then I went into town and found many handcrafts shops selling cute dolls based on the story of Don Quijote,then...

Ah! like hearing the Taiwanese songs,"Prosperity is a dream.",plus "Falling in love with the wrong person.",

I quickly threw these sad emotion to the back of my head,haha.

I couldn't help,haha,for those dolls were too cute to feel sad at the moment.I suddenly didn't feel much from the Cervantes' epic poetry.

It's quite commonly seen that people here sell a lot of dolls as decorative gadgets.I always wonder if they could make some money out of it? I thought it would be easier to open a clip doll machine store.
Anyway,I had seen more and more Don Quijote dolls appearing in the street here in Toledo.The pair of Don Quijote dolls,a fat one and a slim one are the speciality products here.

沿著護城河沿岸的公園，可以漫步運動，應該可以沿著對岸道路跑上大半圈，再接力跑到山下，再跑上來，設想得很周到，後來親自去走(從San Martin's Bridge走回Alcantara Bridge)，大概3公里不到吧，往山下去可能要再加個2公里，慢跑運動可長可短，我走起來很舒服，沿河很美，不時又有很多餐廳，中午趁下雨，找間餐廳避雨去了。

The route along the moat was developed for civilians' pastime.It looked so nice to just take a walk along the river bank.I thought ,

if I wanted to jog,it wouldn't be a problem to run a half of circle around the castle.I could run straight to the town downhill,then go back up.

The route was nicely designed.
Then,I took some time to walk along the route myself the other day(from San Martin's Bridge to Alcantara Bridge).

It's about 3 kms.I might need to add another 2 kms to get downhill.Joggers can decide themselves the distance.
However,it was a comfortable strolling for me.The valley was pretty,and there were restaurants here and there.

I chose one of them to avoid being soaked wet,when it rained heavier later.

過護城河的主要橋樑之一，阿爾坎塔拉橋(Alcantara Bridge)後，要沿著山勢往上爬一長段階梯，想當然耳是有另外較平緩的通道，但是這階梯好高好長，因為就建在古城的邊緣上，從上面回頭望的話，景色也是很美，忍不住就慢慢走上了，人到了國外就特別勤奮，幾百、幾千公里就這樣給它走下去，也沒聽到說累，

我偷偷說件事，很多情侶會跑來這邊坐在階梯談情說愛捏，這個位置還真不錯，晚上治安好不好我是不知道。
One of the main bridges is Alcantara Bridge.I went through it,then I hiked up a period of long stairs.There were other roads going up for sure.

Nonetheless,the stairs were very high and very long,and built along the rim of the town wall.

The view seen from the stairs must have been magnificent,especially turning head to appreciate from above.

I couldn't resist the appealing of the thought,then I started to step on the stairs.
Being diligent overseas was out of my expectation,it seemed that I was more willing to exert and do my physical exercises.

I hardly heard me complaining in laboring myself ever since I had been in a foreign country.

Anyway,I'd found this site was a briliently discreet location for lovers to enjoy...haha.
It was a good location,but I had no idea if the security at night was good or not.

到了上頭，一時也不知道去哪裡，那就往中心的廣場去(Plaza Zocodover)，遊客很多，廣場卻比想像的小，現場還有在賣環城觀光巴士車票，商店也滿好逛的。
I was kind of being lost when I reached the top of the stairs.I had no schedule to catch though.
So,I went towards the center of the town,Plaza Zocodover.
There were crowds of visitors,but the plaza was not large as I had thought.
There were some stalls selling tourist bus tickets,and the shops around were good to see,too.

托利多城是很好玩，其實待個2天我覺得還不過癮，這邊不時有特展，我來的時候有私人售票的，展出中世紀女巫展覽，裝神弄鬼得很有趣，台灣有"八爪椅"，

這邊中世紀女巫用"一柱擎天椅"，就是椅子中間挖個洞，陽具擺下面，然後就給你來個愛的逞罰，就...那個，自己想，親愛的，哈哈。
I had found out later that Toledo was a good town to play around.My 2 days' stay wasn't enough at all.
There were shows and exhibitions from time to time.
When I was in town,I went to see an exhibition about witches in middle-aged times,a private one for ticket selling.

It was an interesting display,and I felt so funny about its objects and contents.
One of the display objects was "The chair of sky high column"(Haha,I made up the name for it.Don't mind me.)
We have "The chair of 8 paws" here in Taiwan.Both are the sensual tools for sexual pleasure.
The chair in the display was made like putting a dildo below the seat that was made a hole in the center.

Then the witches would love you with it as a way of punishment,haha.
Think the rest of the effect yourselves,darlings.

另外主教座堂(托萊多主教座堂Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada de Toledo)也是驚為天人的宏偉，因為這是一間到目前為止，我唯一碰到將天花板弄個洞，做成天界通人間的視覺效果的大教堂，超強der，而且內部雕飾，也是在我參訪過的教堂中，華麗繁複的前幾名，門票要到對面的紀念品店買，做生意就是要臉皮厚一點，ㄠ你進來順便買一些紀念品，不然香油錢又不夠多，對吧?
In addition,the archi-cathedral,Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada de Toledo was amazingly grand.

It was so far the first church I had visited,that opened a hole on its ceiling,so to enhance the visual effect of the connection between heaven and the earth.

It's extremely eye-raising.

Besides all that,its internal sculptures and wooden works were superbly extravagant in the front churches on my list.

I needed to buy the admission ticket at the souvenir shop opposite to its entrance.See the trick yet?

they wanted you to get in a shop to have the ticket so that you might spend more if possible.
Ah-ha,thick skin for doing business?

Well,at least it's a good way to increase the funds for maintenance,for nowadays people didn't make enough donation to the churches.

反正我剛來時就先去參觀"不用錢"的軍事博物館，這間星期天不用錢，當然挑這天來，哈哈，而且又連著舊皇宮Alcazar，逛起來非常、非常讓我滿足，裏頭很大呢，

逛完我就跑去找我的飯店，先休息再說，累死。

Anyway, I went to visit the Army Museum upon my first arrival inside the old town.It exempts visitors from spending money on the ticket on every Sunday

(You need to get the free ticket on the counters beforehand.)
Of course,it's so good a chance to miss.Besides,it connects with the old Alcazar palace.So I felt satisfied after finishing my tour.

It took me a lot of time in there,for its displaying area was quite large.

I,then got to find my hotel for checking-in afterwards.I had been then so tired that I couldn't move a muscle.

托利多城有很多付費的戶外活動，可以玩從城內溜滑繩到對岸，城外也有露營區，我是沒有跑去查看露營區設施怎樣，我個人是比較喜歡法國聖米歇爾堡外那類的露營區，

除了這些，四周沿岸公園也很好散步，城內餐廳也很有特色，放慢心情好好閒逛是難得舒壓的美好生活。
Toledo also provided many different kinds of outdoor sports with some fees.
Visitors can choose to slide by ropes from the edge of the castle to the opposite river bank.
I also found a camping site.However,I didn't go to check it out.So I don't know if its facility is better than the one I had seen in Mont Saint Michel,France.
And sure it is wonderful to take a casual walk in the parks along the moat.The restaurants in the castle were also great with their own styles.
Toledo made me feel relaxed and offered me few days with free of pressure.

另外，若你想找特殊主題，托利多城是西班牙少數有猶太教遺跡的城市，可以在猶太社區(Samuel Halevi 小公園)找到風格畫家埃爾格列柯博物館，可是當天沒有開，我沒得逛。

Plus,if you particularly request a tour with a special theme.I found some Jewish communities here,that is rare to find in Spain.

The museum of El Greco,a famous stylist painter is in one of the communities(Samuel Halevi Park).

Its location is not hard to find by using google map.
But I didn't get to see,for it didn't open on that day I went to visit it.

西班牙其實有很多這樣的大大小小的城鎮，生活步調比台灣慢很多，可是我相信台灣的國人會比較喜歡這樣的異國風情，

因為我們不是長期住這邊，不會因為嫌人家太慢而先氣死，哈哈。馬德里附近還有很多城鎮，以後再來混吧，

也跟親愛的唐吉軻德道聲再會了。。
Towns around Madrid are plenty, to be honest.Their living tempo is slower than ours.

However,I believe my people would like this way better,a way full of exotic atmosphere.

Besides,I only stayed here for a couple of days,not actually living here for years,

so I wouldn't be pissed off to die by Spanish time,haha(if you know what I mean).

Like I said,there are more towns that are appealing here in Spain.
I look forward to coming back for more soon.
Thus,it's time to say Good-Bye to dear Don Quijote,lol.