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A hidden star in a suburban garden -Orchhad,India.

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印度中部的一個小鎮,我從Jaisalmer回程要回到新德里的時候,故意在這裡停留個幾天,因為還要前往Kahjuraho印度性廟(結果在Kahjuraho遇到很多台灣人,哈哈,就知道台灣人很色)。
Orchhad is a small town in the middle of India.As I went from Jaisalmer by train ,I got off train to visit here before going back to New Delhi.
After Orchhad,my next stop should be Kahjuraho(Sex Temples,an UNESCO asset,and I found many Taiwanese tourists.See,I knew it.Taiwanese is     licentious,hahaha.)

 

 

 

 

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想要來玩的台灣人,只要從新德里直接坐火車到占西火車站,或者,只要從傳統的印北觀光金三角任一市(新德里、阿格拉、和齋普爾)坐車到占西火車站,再拉一下車程就可以延長到奧拉奇哈。
If you like to visit here,just take a train from New Delhi to Jhansi train station.Or,take a train at any one of the cities in so-called traditionally Indian tourist triangled cities(New Delhi,Agra,and Jaipur),then from Jhansi to Orchhad.

 

到達占西火車站後,必需再搭摩特計程車到景點區,車程不近,最少也得30-45分鐘,所以我就直接入住景點區內的飯店(其實那間就在旁邊,Orchha Resort),由於有點習慣印度鄉間比較原汁原味的風光,車子開在有柏油的路上,著實感覺有點好驚奇,哈哈,人家也會慢慢進步咩。
After arriving Jhansi,I needed to take a motor taxi to Orchhad.It took about 30-45 minutes,so the distance is not short.I went directly to accommodate at the hotel(Orchhad Resort) right beside one of the main tourist attractions,Chhatris Cenotarph.
Since I was kinda getting used to Indian suburbs on those days,I felt surprised to see my taxi running on the asphalt in this Indian country.
Hey~,people would evolve,some big deal I felt.

 

 

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印度還是在衛生上比較沒有達到我的要求,這間飯店已經是不錯了,但是庭院用餐還會被不知名飛蟲打擾,而且一不注意,留在桌上的食物會被飛下來的鳥搶走,我烤好的吐司一直不見,但是這間飯店卻提供非常好的Ayurvedic massage阿育吠陀按摩,是我在旅印期間最好的一次。
However,the hygiene in India was still far from my standards,though my hotel was good enough.If I stayed at the courtyard for having my meals,I would have been harassed by those irritating flying insects constantly,and if I went away for a while,my baked toasts would be robbed by those cheeky birds.
But my hotel offered an excellent Ayurvedic massage,which was the best experience that I'd had as I toured around India.

 

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奧拉奇哈處在貝特瓦河畔River Betwa ,河流周圍風景環境非常秀麗宜人,如果沒有垃圾的話就好了,哈哈,沒辦法這就是印度,不過已經比別的地方少很多了。
Orchhad is located by the River Betwa that flows through picturesque scenery,well,if there's no much litterings.Aha,I couldn't help but notice trashes ,but here has had less garbages compared to other places in India.

 

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由於飯店旁邊就是Chhatris建築群,就先去晃了,可是要門票才能進去,原來我要玩這個地方,就必需先買好套票,才可以進去這一區的任何景點,可是已經是下午了,我不想浪費一天的有效期,所以明天再買吧(主售票亭在Jahangir Mahal的入口)。
Chhatris building complex was right beside my hotel,so I went to visit it right off.Then I realized that I needed to buy a ticket for the admission of all attractions in this touring area.And today was late,it's in the afternoon already.I didn't want to waste a day's validity from my ticket.So I decided to get the ticket tomorrow.(The ticket booth was at the entrance of Jahangir Mahal.)

 

住到區內就可以用走的即可在各景點往來,各景點算是很集中,我把它分為三部份,主要是Chhatris 紀念碑群、Jahangir Mahal賈漢吉爾王宮、和王宮對面街的羅摩廟(Ram Raja Temple)。
It's convenient to visit all attractions on foot,because all attractions were quite near each other.I divided it into 3 primary parts, Chhatris building complex,Jahangir Mahal,and Ram Raja Temple that was across the street opposite to Jahangir Mahal.

 

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1.Chhatris
十六、七世紀沿河建了很多Cenotaphes,這是這地區Rujpat拉傑普特人中Bundela族的建築形式,用來紀念戰後屍骨不在當地歸根的族人,特徵是三層樓、有石製遮陽屋簷、底層四方各有拱門、大門左側石柱有樓梯上去,但只一人寬,且階梯高度差很大,攀爬費力,估計是防止敵人攻頂的設計。
Chhatris cenotaphes were built along the River Betwa in the 16th,17th centuries.The construction style represented for the Bundela clan of Rujpat,which was to commemorate their people who died in wars but was not able to be buried in hometown.Its features are 3 tall floors,with stone cenotaphes,an arch gate on each direction on the ground floor,and an hidden stairway that leading to the 2nd,and 3rd floor,the stair entrance of which usually built on the left column of the ground floor.The width of the stairs are narrow,the height of each stair is also high.Thus,I needed to elaborate to climb up.I guessed it's for defensive designs so that enemies wouldn't be that easy to get to the upper floors.

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不知道剛好是遊客少還是怎樣,鐵門鎖著,我就去叫管理員,秀給他看我的門票後才幫我開門,裡面整理得好乾淨,中庭花園也有人在整理,我的感覺就是中世紀的別墅洋房,還好工人教我如何上樓,不然我還真一時找不到樓梯。
到屋頂可以登高遠望,貝特瓦河和風吹徐風景又很好,寧靜。


I was not sure if it was because of lacking of guests these days.The steel gate of the entrace was locked.So,I went to call in the manager to show him my ticket and then he opened the gate for me to enter.
It was very neat and well-managed once I got insdie,and there were gardeners trimming branches and doing their jobs in the courtyard too.The complex was totally like luxious resorts in my opinions.The worker told me how to get to the upper floors,or I might need to spend a lot of time in finding those hidden stairways.
Once got to the roof,the panoramic views were outstanding,with the breeze coming from River Betwa.Everything seemed quiet,while I was enjoying the moment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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2.Jahangir Mahal 賈漢吉爾王宮

十七世紀的Bundela領袖Vir Singh Deo建了這座王宮來歡迎蒙兀兒王朝在印的第四任皇帝賈漢吉爾的來訪,聽說他只住了一晚,再也沒有來,王宮後面另有一後宮房舍,是愛妾也是著名歌妓Rai Praveen 住的地方,有被送到當時阿卡巴大帝成妻妾,所以跟Vir Singh Deo有些聯姻關係,我在她的大廳也唱唱看,啊!就回音比較好咩,反正這段歷史滿有趣又複雜,也常被拍成電影,我怎麼這麼用功去知道?因為我雇用了當地導遊,其實他自己跑來的,我看很便宜,而且又被纏到不行,事後覺得他很努力工作,我告訴他我是來玩的,不是來上課的,不用每件事都告訴我,陪我陪了大半天,我也不好意思,就賞了他比工資還多的小費,大家皆大歡喜就好。The leader of bundela,Vir Singh Deo ,built the Mahal to welcome Jahangir,who was the 4th emperor of the Monghul Empire in India.I'd heard Jahangir only came to sleep here for one night only.There is another building in the far back of Mahal,Rai Praveen Mahal.Rai was a famous dancer and entertainer,who was called to serve Emperor Arbak to save her clan.Thus,vir Singh Deo had marital relationship with Arbak to some extent.
I also went to see her entertaining hall and sung for fun there.The echo effect was excellent indeed.
The whole story of this period of history was intriquing ,and was also adapted into many Indian movies.How did I know all of this? Because I had hired a local tour quide,hahaha,he told me everything there.Truth was that I didn't want to hire anyone in the very first place,but he gave me a specail and extremely low price ,plus he kept nagging on me nonstop,hahaha.
He worked very hard to make his service worth.In the end,I couldn't help but tell him to relax by saying "I come to tour,not study.You don't need to tell me everything".However,he did spend a lot of time accompanying me till afternoon.So,for rewarding his efforts,I gave him tips that were twice of his wages when the session ended.
Well,he's happy,and I was also happy,and which mattered.

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這個王宮的規模真的不是開玩笑,護城河、接見議事廳等等處處俱全,後頭還有象?,也養駱駝,也是馬房,太厲害了,不過古蹟是需要花錢維護的,所以清潔維修還不行。

Jahangir Mahal is really something,no matter what moat,receptive halls,etc it has it all.It also comes with a huge stable for raising elephants,camels,horses.Good God,so magnificent.
However,it takes a lot of money in maintanence.To me ,it still falls behind my request of cleanness.

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3.Ram Raja Temples羅摩神廟

在護城河對面街,廣場兩旁攤販成市集,每年神廟舉行廟會都可以吸引大量人潮來祭拜,約65萬觀光人口,Rama羅摩是濕婆神第7個化身,此廟是全印度唯一將Ram升格為王來祭拜的羅摩廟,旁邊接連的cenotaph也很壯觀,我進去了,到現今其實我沒有什麼印象就是。
Ram Raja Temple was opposite to Jahangir Mahal.Vendors occupied both sides of the road ,which formed into a market.Temple hold activities periodically and which attracted approximately 650,000 tourists to come annually.
It's an important temple,which worships mainly for Rama(He is the 7th avator of Shiva.The temple is also the only temple that worships Rama as a Lord in whole India.The cenotaphes beside it are also grand.)
Though I've entered to see,but right now I don't have much impression left.

 

 

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奧拉奇哈是很鄉村的印度,商店當然不會像城市裡頭那樣,人也很純樸,這裡因為貝特瓦河流過,所以泛舟等戶外活動很流行,沿河散步就可以找到辦公室去加入。
Orchhad is a country town.Business isn't like the ones in big cities.Its people are also down-to-earth.There was a popular outdoor activity,rafting along River Betwa.The office could be easily found,just walk down the riverbank.

 

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這個小鎮在這幾年吸引了很多西方觀光客來拜訪,聲勢逐漸攀升,我因為好奇也來看看,我的心得是,非常值得一遊,如果以後有時間,我願意再回來玩一遍,這個我當初也沒想到會有這樣的感覺。
Orchhad has been attracting a lot of west tourists these years.Its reputation is on the rise.I also came due to my curiosity.My conclusion is ,if I have time in future,I will like to visit again.Because Orchhad is worthy of being rediscovered.I didn't know I would have this thought about it,to be honest.

~End~

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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