那年冬天的日子，我在恆河岸........光明之城-印度瓦拉納西。 @ My Very Own World

主壇達薩斯瓦梅朵河壇正準備晚上的作醮儀式The main Ghat,Dashashwamegh Ghat was preparing the worshipping ritual at night.

The days in winter, when I was at the bank of River Ganges .....Varanasi,India,The City of Light.

我進入瓦拉納西的路徑非常的苦澀，從火車站搭了人力車，實在是熬不過司機的拜託才搭他的車，不然我是不可能使用人力車的，因為我覺得有摩特車的馬達比使用人力還便利也比較使人不辛苦，我是不忍讓人用苦力服務我的那一種人，即使動物我也會感到不好意思，可是這司機卻帶我走一條汙穢不堪，更加如迷宮般曲折的路徑，揹著笨重的行李穿梭在惡臭巷弄之間，也不知過了多久，滿頭大汗又被帶領到一間不是我預定的飯店，脾氣竟一下子爆發，第一次知道我罵人的英文怎麼這麼好，連續罵了快半小時沒停，趕快又走出舊城區，扣住了司機的錢不給他，兩人在街頭大聲叫罵，引起眾人圍觀，我一時興起大喊，"誰可以帶我去我的飯店，我給酬勞"，馬上就有人自告奮勇，不用10分鐘就穿出舊城區，進入了視野寬廣的恆河岸，飯店就在旁邊，有如從黑暗深淵忽然走入明亮桃花源的情境，讓我嘖嘖稱奇，心下對司機想以欺負外地人以便獲取更多報酬的做法生氣，雖然他故意帶我走入他途，但我最後還是將他的車資給了他，另外帶我走便捷路的年輕人，我卻是給予以車資兩倍的錢報答，總算大家兩不相欠，我也平安入住。The path to Varanasi to me was hard and tedious.I rent a rickshaw at the train station heading to the bank of River Ganges,where my hotel located.I personally preferred motor cars to any vehicles that needed man labor,because motor cars used less arduous efforts.I would feel embarrassed also ,even being transported by animals,for I don't think I have the right to slave animals either.But my driver pleaded so hard that I couldn't reject him abruptly,which turned out to be a mistake later.
My driver led me to walk one of the filthiest and most intertwined path in the world,after entering the area of old town.I had been walking, not knowing for how long in the labyrinth like lanes,bearing my heavy backpack,and enduring the horrible and filthy smell,then finally reached to a hotel that he claimed my accommodation .I was so pissed off.The cursed words torrentially bursting out of my mouth,that I didn't even know my English could do that before.
I rushed out of the area without paying my driver,and then the sight was not pretty.My driver and I were ranting and raving loudly on the street,which attracted crowds,because I was very angry and holding his payment ,not giving it to him.Then,I suddenly yelled,"I'd like to pay whoever leads me to my hotel,anyone? anyone?".
Very soon,many people volunteered.One of the young lad got the job,and pretty soon,less than 10 minutes.We reached to the bank of River Ganges,and my hotel was just right there in sight.
It's almost like going into a bright haven from dark abyss.The change was so dramatic.Although I felt upset about my driver ,who tricked me into a maze and wasted my time,I still paid him what I'd promised.To the young lad who led me to my destination,even it only took less than 10 minutes,I paid him double of transportation fee in front of my driver's eyes.And that's it.I didn't owe any one here,and I safely checked into my hotel.

日落時分的恆河真是美呆了The beautiful moment of River Ganges at dusk.

原來要由舊城外圍進入恆河岸邊的飯店群，不可以直接想穿越舊城區，而是走到外圍行人區直到底部，再橫切進去到岸邊，就可以避開這輩子想也沒想過的汙穢巷弄，有多汙穢?瓦拉納西是6千多年的古城，這麼長的時間積了多少不堪，所以，你說呢?For your information, as a tourist who wants to visit Varanasi for River Ganges.
Cars cannot enter the pedestrian area that circled the old town(the outskirt street of the old town.)You need to get off your car on the so-called entrance ,then go straight to the bottom of the street ,make a direct cut(turn left) into the direction of old town,then you will reach bank of River Ganges in 5-10 minutes,and be able to avoid from those filthy sight in those labyrinth like lanes.
How dirty can it be? Well~the history of Varanasi exceeds more than 6,000 years.So,what'd you think?

其他河壇 At other Ghats.

不過不要被我嚇到了，既來之則安之，除了舊城裡面髒亂不堪，恆河岸倒是出乎意料的乾淨有趣。
However, DO NOT be intimidated by my description.Except the difficulty in old town area,the area along the River Ganges was very clean and its sight was broad,which was kind of ...out of my expectation.

放學了~After school.

沿著精華區這一段的恆河，約有44多個(Ghat)河階連成一氣，沿岸有著不同神明的慶典和活動，恆河作為印度母親之河，更是各個不同教派的人必須親臨的聖地，靠岸河邊不時有人淨身淋浴，人潮就是錢潮，所以各式小販和臨岸商家也很多，不管是要露天理髮、按摩、跟大師上課、飯店曬棉被、登船遊河、廟宇作醮、燒香拜拜、看弄蛇、耍猴表演，算命問卜，還是要火化遺體，天天從早到晚都很熱鬧，連動物聖牛、羊、狗、猴、貓、和蛇也都來參一腳，我訪問期間正逢恆河主神-濕婆神的生日，過幾天又是祂的結婚紀念日，反正我也一愣一愣的，想說會笑出來，可是看到人群這麼的虔誠，一時也不知如何反應。
There are about 44 Ghats that go along the most prominent area of River Ganges.People hold assortments of festivals and activities to worship their deities and Gods.As the Mother river of India,River Ganges is a holy site that people must come to see.People come to purge themselves by showering in the river.Thus,in the eye of businesses,crowds stand for money flows.
Therefore,it's no surprise to have various street vendors,and shops along the river bank.No matter what kinds of services you need,you'd find it here.Like
Outdoors barbers,masseurs,lessons from gurus,drying the hotels' bed sheets ,boats that cruise River Ganges,temples' activities,Gods' worshipping and incense burning,performances of snakes and monkeys,future telling,and corpse cremation,and so on.....You could also find diverse animals here,like holy cows(hahaha),sheep,dogs,monkeys,cats,and snakes,and so on....
Life along River Ganges is very hustle-bustle all day long.
During my visit,it happened to be the birthday of Shiva,and His wedding anniversary was in few days.Anyway,I felt dumbfounded,and I thought I could have laughed out loud about this.But seeing the fidelity of people to their Gods,I didn't know what to react all of sudden....

恆河日常活動-遊河The daily activity,boats cruising.

恆河日常活動-放水燈祈福The daily activity,water lanterns floating for good lucks.

恆河日常活動-曬被單The daily activity,drying bed sheets in sun.

恆河日常活動-玩蛇人The daily activity,the snake manipulator.

恆河日常活動-跟大師學習The daily activity,lessons teaching from gurus.

恆河日常活動-耍猴人The daily activity,monkey's master.洗澎澎。

恆河日常活動-玩牌The daily activity,card games.

恆河日常活動-取聖水The daily activity,retrieving holy water.

恆河日常活動-淨身The daily activity,bathing and purging in holy Ganges.

恆河日常活動-拜拜The daily activity,worshipping the Deities,Lord Shiva.

Dashashwamegh Ghat 達薩斯瓦梅朵河壇就在我住的飯店旁邊，是恆河沿岸中最重要的河階，祭祀的主神就是瓦拉納西的保護神-濕婆神，這個地方是濕婆神下凡的地點，古時為了祭祀祂，當地官員殺了10隻馬獻祭，因此儀式又稱"十馬祭"，現代當然不可能在這裡用"血祭"了，祭司各個出身貴族，年輕、英俊，誦念"吠陀經文"，配合各種法器，如海螺、香爐、火爐、孔雀翎扇、撫塵、銅鈴，最後向空灑上鮮花花瓣，在漆黑的夜色中，河壇作法點起萬盞燈火，河中、河岸閃閃爍爍，一時全城明亮如白晝，故稱"光明之城"。
Dashashwamegh Ghat is the most important ghat along River Ganges,right by my hotel,which is the location where people come to worship Lord Shiva.In old times,local officials sacrificed 10 horses to worship HIM.

Thus,the ritual is also called "10-horses rite".Of course,in modern times,people cannot slaughter animals to worship their deities right here now.Lord Shiva is the protector of Varanasi.
All sorcerers(clerks or monks) come from royal families or with high-ranked social status,young,and handsome.They recite sutra(Veda Sutra)and practise rituals with diverse sacred tools,like seashells,incense,furnaces,peacock-feathered fans,sweeping dusters,brass bells,and then they'd toss flower petals into the air to make a grand ending of the whole ritual.
They also ignite countless light in pitch-dark night while practising rituals(ceremonies).Some of the light was put to afloat on the river,which making the whole town a magnificent sight to see.

The town(Varanasi) would be so bright at night ,like it is at daytime during the rituals.And that is why Varanasi got the name "The city of light".

達薩斯瓦梅朵主壇的祭祀The worshipping ritual at Dashashwamegh Ghat.

在旁邊練習的小祭司The little sorcerer in practising by the ghat.

恆河是印度人的聖河，死後火化前將屍骨浸浴其中可以洗滌生前罪惡，但是有幾類人不可，一是未婚妙齡女子，二是未滿五歲小孩，三是過百老人。為什麼?因為太小沒犯什麼罪，未婚女子還未經人事，過百老人該受的人生痛苦都差不多受過了，所以不是很需要去浸一浸。
River Ganges is sacred.Families or relatives immerge their dead into the river for sin purging.However,there are certain types of people who shouldn't practise this rite,such as unmarried young women,kids below 5,or old people over 100 years old.Why? as my understanding,unmarried young girls who hasn't had enough social experiences in life,so they wouldn't commit too much sins

(it's reasonable,if you know how conservative old Indian society is.),
Lttle kids below 5 years old that they are too young to commit any crimes,

and the very old people? Well, they are old enough to have had every form of pain in life already(too late to wash away their sins..haha.)

河畔的印度教修行者The Hinduist ascetic at the bank of Ganges River.

悠悠恆河River Ganges in fog.

入恆河洗淨一身罪業，回到馬尼卡尼卡河階火化，由火神阿耆尼帶往淨土，或由冥神閻摩帶往亡者之國。
After the rite of sin purging,the dead body is brought back to Manikarnika Ghat to cremate.Then the souls are led to heaven by God of Fire,or to the Kindom of Dead by God of Dead.

馬尼卡尼卡河階Manikarnika Ghat

佛經中稱瓦拉納西為迦尸國，自古就是火葬場，馬尼卡馬尼河階總是堆滿木頭，你可以捐一點錢買些木頭給要火化的人用，瓦拉納西其實是......跟死亡有關的國度。
In Buddhist Sutra,Varanasi's old name was "Kashin",which has been the cremation site since ancient times.Piles of piles of woods always stocked up at Manikarnika Ghat.You can spend some money for those who need woods ,doing it as a donation.Varanasi actually has something to do with......death.

最後近郊景點:貝拿勒斯大學，校園裡面有一著名博物館，不要錯過。