
One Day Tour in
Mont St.Michel,Peninsula Normandy,France.
我跑到Rennes先住幾天,再從那裏再轉巴士去聖米歇爾山玩,
每天都有班車,時間大約1小時多一點,這樣我比較不會太累。
雖然我的TGV巴黎出發的資料是2018年的車次表,但是這條路是經常性的通車路線,
所以很少會變動,如果還不覺得穩靠,放心,所有大大小小的飯店都可以拿到時刻表,
再懶也可以上網路查囉,如果還要更懶,就跟我一樣用問的,
"怎麼去?",櫃檯就會一五一十告訴你惹,
"要親嗎?",
"不用,謝謝..."。
I ran over to stay in Rennes from Paris for few days before heading to St.Michel,then,
I transferred from there.
There were commuting buses every day.It'd take a slightly over one hour.
I'd prefer this way,for not planning to exhaust myself in transportation.
Though the time tablet I'd got was stated in 2018's,starig off from Paris by TGV,
however,this was a regular route,not having been changed often.
If not having any reliance on the train schedule,
it is always available to check on line.
Or,there are all sorts of hotels would provide the relevant information as well.
Still feeling too difficult?
then directly go to ask your hotel counter.
They'll tell you anything you'd like to know.
"Meci..."
"Want a kiss?"
"Nope,thank you..."


到達Rennes後,要另轉巴士去聖米歇爾山,
我住在熱鬧的Rennes火車站附近,轉車比較方便些,
下車要往旅客中心那邊的接駁車停靠站去,
我都跟著其他旅客走,
郊外柏油路出乎意料之外地鋪得很平,
而且看起來...好乾淨,
幹嘛這麼整潔?人家巴黎都嘛很隨意說。
When arrived in Rennes,I'd need to transfer by a bus to get further.
I chose a room in the vicinity of the boisterous train statin,
for the sake of convenience.
The bus stopped at the road side closed to the tourism center.
Then,I followed other passengers to wait in line at the connecting bus stop.
Here,all roads in the suburb paved with asphalt,which surprised me a little.
I had no idea what the heck to look so flat and neat for,
Paris,on the other hand,now looked so
casual...
natural...
great,lol.

中心這裡有廁所、有一、二間餐廳、
旁邊的露營區,倒是很大一片的,
我看很多人都開車來露營,
設施又很齊全,也有獨間cabin可以租,
整體環境感覺起來就是舒適。
You'd find clean toilets here in the center
,few restaurants outside,and there was a large camp area,too.
I had seen so many people driving in for camping.
The facility was good and complete.People even can rent a cabin here.
It looked cozy in a whole.

很多人不想排隊坐車,就帶著狗狗直接從這裡走去,
從這中心遠遠就看到了,感覺很近,其實距離滿長的
(之前常常在山間看到小鎮就在眼前,一走卻還要3、4小時,
我的媽,你們的地是不用錢咩,這麼大!)
,用走的近1小時,應該很有趣,
可是這裡離海邊很近,風很大,還有些毛毛雨
,我不想沿途吹風就坐車了,接駁車不用錢,
但是為了觀光財,當地在接駁車附近也有復古馬車載客,
單趟要6歐。
Some of the people didn't like to wait in line for the connecting bus,
so they hauled their dog together for a walk.
I could see Saint Michel from here.It looked near,but actually it was far according to my experience
s(I usually spotted a village from afar in a European hill,
but then,it would take me another 3 or 4 hours to actually get there.
My goodness,
it seemed that the land was free of charge totally,
simply because they had plenty.)
It should have been fun to stroll carefreely on the path.
However,the wind here was strong for it closed to the ocean,and it started to drip a little.
I didn't want to get wet in case it began to pour down while I was in the middle of the road.
The connecting bus was free of charge.
However,for increasing income benefited from tourism,
there were nostalgic buggies for commercial purposes.
It charged 6 eruos for a single ride.

人家常說要到南法體驗道地法國風情,這是不錯的,
所以我才故意住在離景點最近的大城Rennes,
Rennes是早期德裔移民所在地,
舊區也有很多特色建築和台灣人最注重的餐點,
吃吧,反正活著就是只為吃,沒得吃也就快要死了。
My people usually say it is fantasic to savor what a genuine France
by going down to its south,which is absolutely right to me.
I particularly chose my temporary accommodation in Rennes,that nears St.Michel.
As to Rennes,
it had also many traditional buildings with characteristics passed down from its early immigrants from Germany,
plus it offered a lot of great cuisines here too.
For my people,Taiwanese live for eating.
If you don't get to eat,
that means you don't have much time left,either...haha.
Rennes我個人是覺得很親近,一大堆人在公園曬太陽,啊~好霉喔~
都不用工作,哇!
當地人是這麼痴痴地告訴我的...笑個屁。
I felt Rennes was a place that was nice to people.
I got to see a bunch of people having suntain at the park everyday.
Ah~beautiful...ly.
The locals seemed not need to work at all,wow...
At least,that's what I was told by a local with a mischievous mind.
The hell...!


如果想要住到聖米歇爾堡裡面...那很貴說,
我比較喜歡晚上附近可以有各式服務提供的城鎮,
生活起來比較方便些,也比較便宜。
It's not cheap to stay over night inside the fortress.
I preferred to stay in town,so that I'd have a lot of modern amenity to enjoy,
and not to worry at night.
It would be more convenient and cheaper this way.

這幾天退潮,聖米歇爾堡不像在那些明信片,
和各大旅遊網站上的推廣照片,
那種被海水四周包圍起來的海上孤島,
這時節天氣也陰陰的,感覺起來更加真實,
仍然壯觀漂亮,只是不同的風情,
(啊! 就海龜擱淺在沙灘上咩~)
The tides had drawn back on these few days.
St.Michel now didn't look like being the images,beautiful and distantly apathy
on every postcards or on the DMs of those travel agencies.
An usual image of being surrounded by sea water,an aground lonely isle.
I felt it was even more real in the overcast weather,
not just pretty and magnificent still,but emitting a different motif
(Ah !,typically like a tortoise stranded on a sand beach,haha,the hell...)


這個堡直接在海邊的小山丘上開鑿而成,
天然海水的漲退潮,地勢讓防守很是嚴密,
最高處為一平台有修道院和教堂(Église Saint-Pierre),
聖米歇爾山不會很高,也沒有大到需要1天以上才能逛完,最高點的教堂尖塔,
當初建時是用直升機直接把塔加蓋上去的,
這個最上面的聖皮耶教堂,有個沒常對外宣傳,
但是卻非常有名的景點,
就是修道院中庭迴廊的哥德式廊柱,
真的很美,教堂其實也很光亮,有靜肅莊嚴氣息,
可以在裡面靜思祈禱
(其實是走累了,我這死觀光客終於找到椅子可以坐下)。
The fortress was excavated and developed directly on a little hill by sea.
The natural movement of rising and waning of tides stiffens its defense.
The church on the top is Église Saint-Pierre,a terrance,and consisting of a monastery.
Mont le St.Michel is not tall at all,it wouldn't take you more than one day to finish the tour.
The pinnacal of the whole hill is the tip of the Church tower set in the middle.
The tower tip was built in other site and then moved to add on by a chopper's delivery.
There is a famous,but not frequently promoted tourist site in the Church of Saint-Pierre,
which is the monastery's cloister with Gothic style.
My goodness,
it was beautiful,that's for sure.
It was bright in the church,
full of grand and tranquil atmosphere and an ideal location for praying.
(Truth is being a dame tourist,I was tired and happy to get to sit down at last,lol.)


隨著高度,堡內劃分成由下到上一圈一圈的區域,
這個結構是我們心中許多人的古典堡壘印象,
也常在很多電影場景出現。
The fortress was separated by different altitude of a circle and a circle area.
The layout of the structure is what a typical fortress should be like in many people's impression,
and it had been shown in many movie scenes before.


由於地理優勢,除軍事用途外,
聖米歇爾堡是有暗黑歷史的,
印象中,它被用來當作關政治犯的地方,
牽涉的刑罰很是不人道,極盡虐待之能事,
比如,1746年時,在外面說國王路易十五的壞話,
就把你關起來,活活給餓死,
聖米歇爾堡被當作監禁的場所,一直延續到19世紀,
當時一度收到600多人,有點技術的,
都被強迫做一些手工藝賺點錢補貼,
比如,要犯人製作稻草的編製品,如帽子、椅子、和圖畫等等。
Besides its military adventage based on its geographical location
,St.Michel isn't merely a holy site in religion.
It has its own dark history.
My impression is about its function being used as a incarceration to the political prisoners.
The treatments to the prisoners were so inhuman
that appalling punishments caused many prisoners dead.
For instance,in 1746.If you spoke any ill of King Louis XV,
you would be locked up and get nothing to eat.
Finally,the prisoners starved to die.
The condition of being used as an incarceration carried on until 19th century.
There were as many as 600 prisoners at its peak.
Some prisoners committed minor crimes and if they were skills in making crafts.
They were forced to produce goods sold for jails' income,
like staw hats,wooden chairs,or pictures,etc.

後來我又找到當時要出差上戰場時,
丈夫擔心家裡太太會寂寞難挨,出軌約會小王,
特別訂做的"貞操帶"(14世紀),
啊!真是浪漫呦~
不過...你太太會不會有點胖,先生?
I kept roaming among some little museums in the fortress.
They were displaying some litte exhibitions,
and then I found an interesting and funny object.
It's a chastity belt,
ah~so romanitc,haha.
However,Mister,
don't you think your honey is a bit chubby?


堡內一副美麗山城的景象,
石階層層蜿蜒而上,中世紀建物很是可觀,
登高又可以環顧四周美景
(就一望無際,有很多鳥在飛,還到處自由自在地拉),
我這種人都可以覺得花癡起來,那真的是可以很浪漫滴。
Stony stairs wound up along the hill walls,layer by layer forming into a picturesque view.
Buildings made in the middle age were quite impressive.
The best part was to see far on the terrance.
(Seagulls could be seen everywhere,flying freely...and pooing,nice.)
See,this was a very romantic site suitable for nymphomaniacs to fall(in love),
even for a prank like me,lol.

我建議可以自行攜帶飲食
(中心那裏沒得買,從Rennes市就要先買好若從巴黎出發,在巴黎就要先買好),
找小花園空地自行午餐,不然就在餐廳花錢吧,
雖說是花園,但空間有限,古時,即使堡壘上的修道院,
也需要常常利用纜繩和巨大木製轉輪,
將食物和其他必需品吊上、吊下地運輸,
堡內不可能有空間種植任何穀物的。
I suggest that bring your own snacks and beverages here
(There's no concession stands there in the center.I bought in Rennes before coming.
If you come from Paris,had some food ready in Paris.)
,then find a place to sit on in the little gardens,
or dine at the restaurants here,splurge some.
The available space here was limited,even to a garden.
In ancient times,the monastery in the up hill also needed to turn a huge wheel
and its thick rope,in order to deliver up and down food and other necessity.
Thus,there's no additional space to crop.

附上大家滿知道的堡內知名餐廳,
普拉阿罵La Mère Poulard的菜單和價錢,
可以事前研究一下,免得點菜我都還要想半天,
10幾、20幾歐我還好,有的要30多歐,我就不想吃了,
寧願回到Rennes上餐館享受,
不過景區餐價,全世界應該都是這樣。
La Mère Poulard is what people ususally know,
a prestigious restaurant in the fortress.
I attached its menu for your reference,
in case you might spend too much time in deciding its dishes like me.
It's a pricing list for me though,10 or 20 more euros per dish was fine,
but I needed to consider more especially when food costed more than 30 euros.
For 30 euros a meal,I'd rather go back in town to enjoy it,at a much fancier restaurant.
However,I think it's a commonly phenomenon everywhere,
that restaurants with a little pricing dishes at tourist sites.


門票不是全包,堡內另外有4、5個小博物館,可以買套票觀看,人都來了,就欣賞一些吧,雖然都小小的。
The admission ticket didn't include everything.
You needed to buy extra tickets for those little museums,
there were 4 or 5 of them.
It's a long way to get here,so I didn't mind spending some more on them.

我看過不少修道院和堡壘,聖米歇爾堡因地勢關係,
顯得高聳且潔然於世,是很有特色的,
最後想買紀念品的人,可以買堡內自行生產的各式商品,
像是修道院出產的橄欖油、肥皂、蜂蜜等等等,
當然動線上是標準的博物館出口路線,
館方的紀念品店都安排在往出口那邊。
I have been visited other monasteries and fortresses in Europe,
but still,St.Michel showed its marvellous and unique status out of its peers.
Before exiting,of course,
a standard route of touring locomotion would lead you to the souvenir shop.
There were many goods manufactured and originated from the monastery,
like olive oil,soaps,honey,and so on.

硬是給它鬼混到下午3點多,
結果要回到火車站的巴士害我等老半天才來,
,現在回想起來,外表看起來滿巨大的,
如果在這裡露營並參加當地活動(可以在旅客中心問當季有哪些會舉辦),
可以更深入生活,但是這次是一日遊,
所以一直覺得人很多、海邊風很大、車子怎麼還沒來...
I stayed until 3:00 pm ,I didn't know what my persistence was for though!
Anyway,it seemed that I had waited a long time at the tourist center for my bus to come.
Now thinking back,I felt St.Michel appeared to be large,
but it would be even more better if I could have time in camping here and joined the domestic activities
(You can find what outdoors activities that are holding here at the Tourist Center.)
This time it was only a One-day tour,
which left me with impressions of crowded visitors,
strong wind by sea,
and what the heck was my bus doing?


~ End ~
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