
The Libidos, From Which The Nirvana was Born,The Temples with Sexual lusts,
Khajuraho,India.
有段時間了,前日印度朋友密我來亂聊天,我才忽然想起這件事,有啦,現在台印關係算在新聞熱點上,我應該要來寫一寫我這美妙的一小段旅程。
Been a while,one of my Indian buddies texted me the other days for shooting breeze without any purpose,making me think of this place on a whim.
Yeah,I should ,I should have documented what my little journey was in Khajuraho.Especially,it seems that the relationship between India and Taiwan is on the rise...
新聞一向對印度治安多所著墨,我親身遊歷之後,倒是覺得,"啊!世界不就都是這樣?" 任何地方都有好、有壞的時候,人家印度不是到處都是壞人,作奸犯科的總是那一小撮人,絕大部分的人都很善良,而且很明顯在中國大外宣四處造謠下,這幾年開始,小粉紅給了印度個江湖封號:"強姦之國"!
It's quite common to have read news about the notoriety of the social security in India.
After my visits in India,I felt "Hm...Isn't it like this everywhere?"
There are good people,and meanwhile bad people.It's always the bad people that counts in some people's mind,nonetheless most of the people are good and kind.
The complex situation gets interiorating to some extent,after the infamous broadcast made by China's propaganda institute or so-called the little pink organizations,which giving India a bad name,"A country that rapes."
那天...在烏岱普市鬼混時,剛好當地新聞報導有位在地的導遊,邀約一位日本二十出頭的女生出遊,之後被控告強姦,那位印度男生後來被捕,與在地人說起來時,當地人一臉愧疚,怪了,我怎麼不覺得事情是表面上那樣呢?
因為當地人很難過又發生這樣的事,感覺羞愧,而我沒有說出口的疑惑,卻發得滿臉都是。
One day...I was hanging around in Udaipur.A news came,saying a local tour guide was accused of raping a young Japanese girl.She was about 20 something.That man was arrested later on.
So,when I mentioned about it to the locals,they all felt ashamed,and showed embarrassed and sorry.However,I felt weird and had another thought about it,for I didn't think the thing was what it showed on news.I didn't make an speech about it to my friends though,except obviously my face was full of doubts about it.
為什麼一個才20出頭的女生,在印度會答應單獨和當地男性出遊?然後在第3天才發生這個事情。
雖然印度是執行民主政治,但是人權狀況未臻完備,我想該男生只怕會受到嚴厲的處罰,就像在印度隨地小便是違法的,警察捉不勝捉之下,驅趕後來變成直接用暴力毆打,這在我國是不可能的,總之,女性在外也要自重,在這一些國家擺男性一道,在別人家的法令之下有可能會致命的。
How could a 20ish young girl allow herself to go out with a newly acquainted local Indian male,alone? What had happened during the 3 days when they're together?
Was it simply a touring schedule,or in fact, "a date?
Even though India is what we know,the largest democratic country in the world,however,it's not full fledged in its relevant laws against criminals under human rights.Thus,I was afraid that the man would get serious punishment.And the punishment might end in violence as a consequence.
As we all have understood,Indian people,who are often doing a pee on the curbs outdoors(no matter what causes are),which is seen as a crime.
Because people who committed petty crimes are too many in India,and the police,in the end,can't help but use violent forces to expel people.To us,it is impossible for police to use any form of violence without laws allow.But it isn't so here.
Thus,if women make such a serious accusation against the domestic persons in India,it might be fetal to the person(s) under the violent punishment.People need to respect themselves in the first place,and it doesn't have to do with genders.

台灣的媒體也很喜歡炒作新聞,當然不是說沒有真的發生過這些事,只是太過強調個案的腥羶色,對人性的殘酷和不仁的偏重,只會讓平常老百姓害怕,而墮入無知的境界,傷害了無辜的人。
這些零零總總,我是心知肚明的,並不會因此而畏懼,因為,我們不可以只用我們的眼睛看世界,我必需借助當地人的眼睛看他們親自承受的生活,這才是我旅行的真義,不然看電視、上上網就好了呀!由電視來幫你過活、替你定義世界嗎?
The media here in Taiwan also love to suck blood out of provoking news,even those incidents actually have happened.Nonetheless,over stressing on the aspect of eye-popping effect out of lusts,and partially focusing on the cruelty on human nature,which only lead to intimidate innocent people and get people fallen into negligence,and eventually get the public harm.
All those trivia that troubles us wanes off under the fact we understand.Because the truth we are seeking is gained not only by our own eyes,but also by taking advantage of locals' viewpoints,so that we can profile what the world in this part really is. I think this is a way to travel around with meaning,for we can't stay at home and watch TV or get on line, and let them define the world for us.

如果疫情告一段落,但國人又沒有太多長假,但又想自由自在地嘗嘗原味的印度咖哩,在北印度,可以先考慮黃金三角(新德里、齋普爾、和阿格拉),在地圖上以這三個主要城市為重點觀光區流動,而事實上,這三個都市本就是精華中的精華,由於印度常常被背包客列為第一或二級戰區,由這三個入手,比較不會害怕吧?
對我而言,申請簽證、辦理外國人專用火車訂位帳號,比較麻煩,希望以後印度相關單位,要好好地在台灣改進,簡化辦理手續,只是基礎建設太差,也暫時沒辦法,但是也看出印度基建的龐大商機和潛力。
印度應該要相信台灣,台灣幫助了中國改革開放,也可以幫助印度脫胎換骨。
If the pandemic disease finally comes to an end,people will like to resume travels again.I think it's a good idea to set foot on "the Golden Triangle" cities,if you'd love to savor the original Indian flavors but not having much time from work leaves for vacation.
In fact,in northern India,the golden triangle cities are referring to New Delhi,Jaipur,and Agra.They offer the top of the cream in India culture.They are usually seen as the first or second degree of challenge in the views of backpackers.Perhaps,it'll be cozier for the first timers.
To me,I feel it a hassle to deal with the application of visa and train reservation code issued for foreigners.I do hope that relevant Indian authority here in Taiwan can improve the situation as soon as possible,to ease off the arduous procedures for us.
For now,it might not be able to expedite,I doubt.
On the other hand,the infrastructure in India is fallen behind greatly,which,at the same time, showing a great potential for future business opportunity.
I suppose India should have a trust in Taiwan,for Taiwan offers a great deal effort in China's
modern reforms,it also can contribute a great deal in assisting the modern development in India.

至於社會案件中,有關人類的性欲風暴和原罪,印度的哲理多所著墨之地,莫過於卡修拉荷這個地方了。
新德里鄰鎮有個城市叫做占西,我先去了那裡幾天,免得一次直達卡修拉荷,車程還得經過十幾個小時,之後結束了短暫的占西旅遊後,我做了火車從占西往卡修拉荷來,明後天就是過年了,這日,我想在特別的地方過一個特別的日子...
As to the cases of social security caused by born sins and the lust storms from human nature,that no other place like Kahjuraho could define by demonstration and explanation of Indian philosophy.
...
A city called Jhansi that closes to New Delhi,and it is on the way to Khajuraho.I went to stay there for a couple of days,I avoided getting to Khajuraho directly,for the transportation would take me more than 10 hours at one time.
At last,I finished my tour in Jhansi,then I took a train heading to Khajuraho.It will be a new year tomorrow.On this particular day,I'd like to spend it on a special location...

性廟這地方,老實說,還真的有不少台灣人去,交通沒有我想的方便,火車得先檢查時刻表,進來和離開的時間很重要,每星期二有固定的廟會活動,如果好奇可以星期二這班車來參觀, 如果只有幾小時的車程,就不用一定要訂First Class的車廂票,次級車位或一般也可以,原則上卻是要提早訂票,印度火車總是很擠,生意很好,也很吵鬧,別人不會沒事來搞我,但三不五時有不守規矩的人、有好奇的人、有莫名其妙的人,三教九流都有,台灣人被自己的優秀服務寵壞了,幾乎隨時都有車班,世界哪裡是這樣呢!
It's not actually strange to my people,Taiwanese,who has made random visits to it.
However,the trains were not as convenient as I had thought.I needed to check on the timetable beforehand,and the time of arrival and departure is an important decision to make.I'd heard they were holding some domestic religous rituals on every Thuesday.It might worth a visit if curious,by taking a Thuesday train to get here.
I didn't think it's necessary to book a First Class coach for a distance that only takes a couple of hours.The Second rank or regular coaches were good enough.However,it's advised to book early,for Indian trains were usually crowded.The business was very good for transportation industry.
People wouldn't cross me on purpose when on board,even though there were few,who were not behaving nice,or they were simply curious of foreigners.You see,I might have seen them all here on Indian trains with all kinds of people in our world.
I couldn't complain much,for basically Taiwanese people are spoiled by our own excellent service.We are used to it,but shouldn't make a comparison with others on this planet,if we are already on the top.
性廟不是一間,而是散佈在卡修拉荷鎮的各處,一般分為2大群,東廟群和西廟群,媒體常常說的是西廟群,而東廟群卻可以找到更古老的廟,出了火車站,可以找個可靠的Tutu車司機當作以後幾天的交通工具,要不然,你要是害怕,可以到飯店後,請飯店幫你找車,
至少飯店要替你負責司機,他們都知道來客要去哪些地方,免費的導遊,一租車就是2、3天,所以他們都願意,其實印度消費在偏鄉就不是很貴,講好價錢就好,臨時提議的行程,我就不見得要了,那種都是要另外加錢的額外行程,要看我有沒有興趣。
There are more than just one temple(25 left),but many that scattering around the village.Generally,they are divided into 2 groups.The Eastern and Western group respectively.It's the western group that media usually talk about.However,there are older temples you could find at Eastern group.
Found a Tutu cabby after getting out of the train station,and he was going to be my personal driver in a few days.If you are not confident in the safety,you could ask your hotel to find one that they trust for you.People who come usually buy down 2 or 3 days of their working hours,and all tutu cabbies know where to go.Thus,they also usually play a role of tour guide free of charge.
Money shouldn't be a problem as long as the negociation has been made beforehand.Sometimes,tutu drivers would make a proposition of going somewhere out of the beaten paths by adding up an extra fee,which would be depended on my interests.It's not a necessary yes.

很想找台輪胎有很多風的車,哈哈,上次在往鹿野苑的路上 ,五臟六腑幾乎都要被震出來,今天這台還好,但印度鄉鎮的路真的太爛惹,這裡都還是黃土路,這時節沒下雨,風一吹過,滿街都是塵土,有時候真的覺得,全世界要找到像台灣的山有這麼綠的顏色,其實不多,台灣的綠色,非常的漂亮。
I really wanted to rent a car with better tires,tires that were full of air,haha.
Because last month,I took a taxi that rode on the way to Sarnath ,and the road was so bad that my guts were almost spilled out by the jumping,bumping all the way to Sarnath.
This time,my cabby's tutu seemed to be all right,however,the dirt roads in Indian suburbs were extremely lousy.They were not pathed with asphalts,they were still dirt roads.This time of the year,it didn't rain much.Thus,when wind blow over,a pile of dirt was stirred up to the air at the same time.
Sometimes,it stroke me a fact,that it's not granted at all to see green mountains everywhere in the world.Truth is it is very rare to see "green color" like the one in my home,Taiwan.
The green color in Taiwan is absolutely,and amazingly beautiful,for which is what I've found after I have been around other countries on this planet for a long while.
太過鄉下了,整個鎮就一條大街最為繁華,就位於主要廟群公園的前面,我飯店也在這邊,他們有用鐵欄杆圍起來,經過時好奇先從外面偷看一下,哈哈,超級整齊乾淨的,就說嘛~
,當外國觀光客看到隨地垃圾時,我們習慣說反話:"This is India.",或是"Only in India.",
印度不是不能,只是不努力做,我在新德里經過一些政府機關,人家也是跟我們一樣很乾淨整齊。
Here was really out of grid from other cities,the most prosperous place was the main road that connected to the archaeological park.All main hotels were also on the either side of the road.The park was surrounded by steel railings,but I could see through them.So I made a peek before I officially bought a ticket to visit.A~ha, it was superbly neat,clean,and well-managed.See,India can make things great as well ,like I had thought.
When foreigners saw garbage on the ground,the street,and everywhere,we'd like to mock by saying..."This is India.",or "Only in India."
India,of course,can make environment clean,like I have seen at the governmental institutes in New Delhi.India can be clean,that's for sure,they just don't have motives to be agressive in tackling this issue.

在印度還有一個地方也是超級乾淨整齊,一踏進可以馬上知覺到,那就是佛家淨土,佛教在印度佔比並不高,少於1%,但所有佛教相關場所,卻是跟我們一樣很乾淨整齊,非常異常,沒辦法大家平常衛生習慣太差,造成佛家寺廟環境特別突出。
However,there's one particular site,where you can sense the clarity right away,after you have set foot on it.The temples of Buddhism,the pure heaven on earth.
Truth is Buddhists in India only occupping less than 1% of the whole population.But anywhere related to Buddhism is extremely clean and tidy like ours,which making it so...unique here.
I think it's because generally people's hygienic habits were so bad that making Buddhist temples look so obviously and outstandingly clean.
有次,我不敢亂丟垃圾,就把一坨廢紙遞給司機,請他幫我丟,結果他接過去,接著隨手往地上丟去,挖咧~那我自己就會丟了,我還交給你幹嘛!
亂丟垃圾的習慣真是天下一等一的,可以滿山滿谷都看得到,荒郊野外呢! 怎麼丟的?我的媽呀~
There was one time,I didn't dare to litter my scrumpled paper.So I handed it to my cabby and asked him to litter it for me,for I didn't find any garbage bin around.
He took it and then next action was to throw it on the ground in no time,haha.
I could do it myself if this were the way to put away trash,lol,God...
Talking about the trashes in India...my Lord,Indians really have an extremely and extravagantly worst habit of handling garbages in the world.I could see it in every moment,the hidden garbage in a lane,corners of the walls,and everywhere,my Goodness !
What made me astonished is to see wasted bottles and all kinds of trashes in a top of a hill,in a green valley,or by a murmuring creek.How did those trashes get there?This is insane!
隔日一大早,司機就來接我去東廟群亂逛,早上看到有人站在街頭刷牙,還在用傳統的樹枝呢(阿拉克樹Arak Tree,拉丁學名為Salvadora persica),不過我一直覺的印度很多人牙齒都還很漂亮潔白。
The next day on the early morning,my caby came to pick me up at my hotel.We were going to Eastern Temple group,then I saw some people brushing their teeth by the roadside with tree twigs,which was a very old custom here about cleansing teeth,and which was rarely seen nowadays.(The tree twigs are usually from evergreen shrubs,like Arak Tree,Latin terminological term as "Salvadora persica ")
However,I often thought Indian people's teeth are white and pretty.Using Arak twigs to clean teeth has been thousands of years in human history.

司機載我來到一間廟,怎麼與印象中的"性廟"不一樣呢?好樸質無華,這邊有點出乎我意料之外,不是都是各種爽姿的嗎?小小的石廟供奉的是一位女神,長得好像原始部落的樣子,果不其然,其歷史大約西元前5世紀開始,頓時感到很驚奇呢!
我在各廟之間有時看到維修工人在工作,有的也正塑上新的雕像,各廟有的看起來滿新的,其實卡修拉荷的神廟可以追溯自2400年前,因此東廟群可看到古廟也是其來有自。
我下意識滿喜歡將之與吳哥窟的神廟相比,但是卡修拉荷的神廟具記載最多時期有85座,現在只剩25座而已。
We came to a very old temple.It's leading deity was a female goddess,looked quite different from my impression and from the rest of the deities in western temples.It was very down to earth and coarse like,so, where were all the statues with the sexual positions gone?
The goddess looked like coming from a primitive tribe.After checking it,I came to understand that It came at least,in the 5th century BCE,which was surprising.
Sometimes,workers could be seen among temples doing the maintenance.Some workers were carving up new statues.Parts of the temple group looked still brandnew,however,the history here can be traced back to 2400 years ago.Thus,it's logical to find a very old temple in Eastern Group.
Subconciously I'd like to make a comparison between Khajuraho and Angkor Wat.Nonetheless,there are only 25 temples left here in Khajuraho,down from its peak era 85 temples.

漸漸地,看的廟愈來愈多,形式也逐漸一致,中世紀開始的形式,在現代工人維修時,不但維持一貫的姿態,還更加"變態",各種姿勢層出不窮,大放異彩,加入了更多的現代"美姿",啊!我猜現在有些工人自行創作上去的咩。
在西廟群最常玩的遊戲,就是在各大廟宇外牆上,找尋"特別姿勢"的浮雕,有些很會藏在角落,等你驚覺脖子要斷了,忽然看到特殊體位,一時又會忘了,能夠找到別人沒有發現的,感覺會特別有成就感,哈哈,有些姿勢我看大家就不要學了,免得骨頭斷了。
Gradually,I had been seeing more and more sexual statues by visiting more and more temples.I started to feel the statues showing the same pattern or trend,that burgeoned in the middle ages.That is a sign of fatique though.
The workers in modern times don't just keep on the good work in maintenance,but also adding up more "fetish" postures I'm afraid.
All-you-can-eat postures exploded and increased more exotic, yoga-like,or acrobatic postures.My guess was,judging by the new appearances, this might be the pranks from some of the artists.
I'd noticed that the most popular game that the tourists here did is to search for the unique statures with what they thought the most peculiar postures.Many statures of that kind were hidden in a corner ,or in shades from sun.Before you'd noticed your neck was going to break(due to raise up high for a long time.),a new found statue with sexual posture would pop up out of blue,giving you a special sense of achievement.
Many acrobatic postures are not for imitating fun,for they might make your bones broken,haha.It's better not to do accordingly.


婆羅門教很講究"苦修",要將人類的七情六慾捨棄,讓靈性可以純真,以便相應死後世界的無體生活,在卡修拉荷的性廟,卻以殊途同歸的方式昇華人類的欲望。
裡、外兩個世界,廟裡並不是有情色雕刻的,性慾的表徵,都只在廟外,外面3大橫幅圍成3大帶,雖然印度寺廟裏面的中心聖壇還有一圈,有時還可以看到有裸露的雕像,但基本上,裡面除了主神外,再也沒有任何情色雕塑,由於感官的差異很明顯,因此,寺廟意為人的性靈核心,而慾望卻只在核心之外。
Brahman sees quite high of meditation and penance,through which to forsake man's desires,so that our soul could be purified and elevated in the world of bodiless after death.Apparently carvings and statues in Khajuraho temples show us a different path towards the same destination(desireless world,a state of nirvana.)
The structure of the temples in that era can be roughly divided into two parts,exterior and interior sections,which insinuate "two world".(One world is full of earthy materials and desires,the other is none,a void.)
Basically,the lusty statues and carvings are in the exterior section.There's very little or few seen in interior decoration,even though we still can find few carved in the innest circle around the sanctum.Most of the statues or sculptures were set on exterior walls,which were shown in 3 wide bands around the walls of the temples.
So,in the chamber of the sanctum,only was there the main or leading deity.There were no others in the chamber,which making an extremely difference in our senses.This figuratively speaks the sanctum is our souls' core,where earthy desires or lusts should be banned from outside world.


為了拋卻肉體的桎梧、文化的束縛、和純淨慾望的雜念,終於有一教派,以積極、強力、和極端的手段作為性靈修行的行動,捨卻作為一個"人"的條件,也就是捨卻慾望帶來的痛苦,在卡修拉荷,遠古於佛教,這裡誕生了耆那教(Jainism),耆那教以正知、正見、正行為中心的教義,而外在的形式,以捨棄使用人文發展後,所有的產品,讓肉體回歸自然狀態,而不使用各式各樣讓肉體舒適的物品和服務,因此,不生產,完全由信徒供奉,進食時,也不使用刀叉等工具,用雙手捧著吃,最明顯的特徵是不穿衣,全裸露,我去了耆那教博物館,裏頭所有神祉也都是赤身露體,然而,看了一會後,也就習慣成自然,不會有遐想,因為欲望是由內心所發動的,不去故意發動,當然就不會有邪念,沒有邪念,就沒有了連動的因果帶來的痛苦。當然,我這俗人看起來,整個世界都是他們的天體營吧,這還真需要非常人的毅力和勇氣呢,只是在街上看到在遊街時,差點昏倒而已。
In order to free from corporal shackles,cultural restraints,and the impurity of our mind,an ancient sect of religion,older than Buddhism,that focuses on a particular method of penance born from here,Jainism.
Jainism uses powerful,agressive,and extreme means to elevate soul,showing us by exteriorly a living form,that has no material binds.
By practicing an arduous penance,so that all conditions of being a man could be rid of,and all pains brought from materials and our earthly desires would be gone.
Since the doctrines of Jainism pursude right knowledge,definition,and behaviors in life,all exterior forms of living must be deserted.
Thus,the gurus or their followers wouldn't use any products that make living cozy and comfortable.
They live nude,literally nude,and not using any kitchen wares or any modern utilities and business services.
Their life returns to primitive form.
Enhence,Jainists diet without forks or spoons.They use their hands only.They don't wear clothes,thus,naked in public.
I went to visit the Jainist museum here to understand in details.
Everything in it was nude and clear to see,even the statues of Jainist deities were naked.Worshippers can see directly the genitals of the statues in broad day light.
However,after a while,I began getting used to the sight.Actually,I didn't have any thought of lusts at all.It's because the thoughts of lusts come from inner motivations or desires.If I don't activate it,accordingly I wouldn't have any thought about it.
Then,the following pains that caused by the thoughts would die off eventually.
This is the theory of incarnation in relationship of all being and things in universe.
Truth is I think the whole world is like Jainists' naked campus in their eyes.
It needs great courage,faith, and persistence to do the religious practice.
Of course,my heart might jump out of my chest if I'd seen them on the street this way,haha.



隔天又回到西廟群去散步,整個遺址公園維護得很好,來到其中一間寺廟裡,進廟要脫鞋的,陰暗的內室只有女神存在,也隔絕了外頭的豔陽,裡面很陰涼,忽然聽到吱吱聲不斷,我的媽呀,老鼠!
裡面管理的廟婆說,印度是不殺生的,所以就讓這些老鼠也自然生活了,那我...閃惹~
I went back to the western group next day,strolling some.
The whole park had been taken care very well.I stopped by a temple,where only the Goddess left in the center of the sanctum.I took off my shoes before entering.The sun was scorching,but the chambers inside were cold and glooming.
Then,there came with the squeaky sounds.
What the...hell no~
Mice!
The old hostess then told me Indians didn't kill animals,so they let the mice live there.
Hm...bye,I flashed out immediately.


在印度時的很多時候,我常希望不要那麼熱,難怪大家都那麼黑,走到附近的小溪旁,一些小朋友在玩水,印度的基礎建設真的太差了,遠遠落後不說,還因為發展工業導致空氣不好,在這鄉間,我都還覺得眼前霧霧的,一時真懷疑是不是有人在燒牛屎?我也是到了印度才知道牛屎很好用,捏成餅狀,一張賣幾分錢,當燃料說。
I,sometimes,wondered...
Could it be the sake of sunlight,that got everyone here look dark?
I walked by the nearby creek that flowing through the town.Some of the kids were playing in it.
I couldn't help but think the fact that infrastructure here was really bad,so backward.The air even got polluted severiously on the process of industrial development.
All in all,I kept feeling confused, if it had something to do with the air quality,that made my eye sight so bad?It seemed everything in front of me was vague.
Perhaps it had something to do with the cow shit burning?
Before I came to visit,to be honest,
I had no idea at all that the cow shits can be a substitue of feul in India.


還好這裡溪邊沒什麼垃圾,回到新德里後,我心中暗下了不要再到這麼熱的地方去,43度是要我的命咩!
流汗的速度竟然比我喝下去的水快,不小心只怕會中暑,只是沒想到,隔個幾年,竟然跑到46度的緬甸去玩,我是皮癢的樣子!
Fortunately,I didn't find much garbage in the creek.
However...,
It's so hot these days,and it was becoming unbearable.
So after I returned to New Delhi,I had swore not to come to places with such high temperature anymore. 43 degrees Celsius,my Goodness,this was not a joke.
My perspiration evaporated faster than the water I drank in.
I might have a sun stroke anytime.
Just...,I didn't expect that I went to a place with higher temperature,like 46 degrees Celsius in Myanmar few years later...


~ End ~
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