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The Sky in Amman is as blue as sea

 

趁著冬天氣溫比較低的時候跑一趟中東,目標雖然是佩特拉古城,但既然專程來了,就想說多花一點時間到處玩玩,而且選在淡季(2月)的時候去,安曼3-5、6月是旺季,中東這裡一般冬季寒冷,夏季炎熱,2月已經接近淡季尾了,還好飯店這時候還可以撿到便宜的價錢,而約旦旁邊的鄰居是以色列,以色列一般收入是台灣的3倍,約旦雖然收入較低,但首都安曼市區也沒有真的便宜到地底去,因此要有心理準備,何況約旦這裡並非物價就等於品質。
As I took a tour around Jordan,though Castle Petra was the main target,I still had spent some time here on purpose to add up the fun for my trip.Winter here is extremely cold,but summer is sultry and scorchingly hot.Thus,I chose to visit Jordan in the end of Febuary due to the timing of the year was kinda slack for tourism.Every March - June was considered as peak seasons.
This time of year,I could get some sweet price in time for hotels here.
Though Jordan’s average income is not as high as its neighbor ,Israel(3 folds of Taiwan’s avg.income),Amman was not really cheap as dirt.So,be prepared that quality is not as high as its pricing here.

 

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阿勒婭王后國際機場行李提領區The bags claim at Queen Alia International Airport.

如果不是南下去埃及開羅,而是從南邊其他景點要回安曼坐飛機離開約旦,那從摩西尼波山的城鎮直接到機場,會比先回安曼市區再轉車到機場離開約旦近和快。
It will be faster and shorter going to airport from southern tourist site,Mt.Nebo,than you go back to Amman city ,and then from there transferring again to airport by taxi.

安曼主要公共交通工具是巴士,市區有3個主要巴士總站,我住近北站,出機場大門就有售票亭,45分鐘到一小時可到達(視交通狀況),到總站再換乘計程車到飯店。
The main public transporting vehicle is buses in Amman.There are 3 major bus terminals.I went to northern bus terminal for my hotel was close to it,from where I transferred by a taxi that drove me to my hotel.I saw the bus ticket booth right away after stepping out the arrival hall.It generally takes 45 mins to 1 hour from airport to Amman city(depends on traffic).

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往市區飯店途中的街景Traffic on the way to my hotel.

另外安曼的主要交通工具是公共巴士,班次很多,但你要先知道去哪裡,不知道就要問,但是這裡的人英文不是很好,另外共乘計程車有固定路線,沒停的地方也沒辦法用,只剩非共乘計程車,但是要先講價錢。
Main public transportation is buses.However,if you don't know the bus routes,then it's all useless to you.Most people's English was not good either.So you might not get the information you'd need.Shared cabs ran the same routes as buses,which would be the same uselessness, if they don't stop at your destination.Thus,general taxi was my only hope,but the price must be settled first.
安曼市區的人對觀光客算是很和善,對亞洲來客也好奇,郊區就要小心不要落單,我在其他市鎮有被當地社區小混混包圍,還好有計程車經過,被我當場叫住跳上逃走了。
People in Amman were friendly to tourists,they might be curious about other Asians though.However,get alerted when in suburban area.I was surrounded once by local young pranks.Luckily there was a cab happened to pass by me,and I halted it and got on it right away to leave the spot of troubleness.

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市區地形 Streets in City

我下塌飯店(Hotel Toledo)的餐廳,馬賽克磁磚和裝潢充滿了中東風味,工作人員對我都很好,接待大廳從前門是在3樓,但是從後門屬起來,卻是在7樓,很怪吧?主要是因為安曼市建城在7丘上,經過都是發展雖然已經破碎化,但市區仍是山坡地形,四處走動還是很費力氣,所以走不遠,一定得搭車才行,對自由行觀光客是體能的挑戰。

The restaurant of my hotel was decorated with mosaic tiles,which was full of Middle East’s ambience.The staff was also very nice to me.What made it weird was that its reception hall was at 3rd floor from the front of the building,but it's at 7th floor if counted from the back of the hotel.Funny,it's because Amman city was built on old 7 hills.Even the land had been cut into pieces for years due to urban development.It was still an arduous job for peopole to walk around.Thus,you couldn't go far without taking a cab,and also a physical challenge to tourists.

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其實去前我對安曼一點概念都沒有,由於安曼市區裡有2個主要古蹟,一個是山上堡壘公園的海克力士神廟,一個是山下的羅馬劇場。我特別留個2天玩,這2個景點一天就綽綽有餘,地圖上我的飯店離景點不遠,本來想用走的去,真是天大的錯誤,安曼市的地形是山坡地,散個步等於是健行爬山一樣,所以除非剛好住景點附近,不然就要搭車,馬上半路攔個計程車直接殺到山上公園。
Before going,I had no any clue at all about Amman,for which,I particularly spent 2 days in Amman.
There were two major sights in Amman,one was Temple of Hercules at the Park of Citadel(at the top of hill),the other was Roman Theatre(downhill).One day would be enough for both sites.
From my map,I thought my hotel was quite close to the park,which turned out to be wrong.Amman was built on hills,which making you hike even you just took a casual walk outside.
Quickly I stopped a cab that drove me directly to the entrance of the Park of Citadel.
Thus,going somewhere?remember to take a taxi.

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海克力士神廟遺址 The ruins of Temple of Hercules.

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到山上公園門口後,外面就有排班的計程車,羅馬劇院在山下,可以直接走下山去,約旦人是我遇過最會黏人的,所以不要就要堅決,不然會被纏到死,安曼市區的人倒還好。
There were taxis lining up outside of the park's entrance.So,don't you worry about no any taxi to hail.After the tour at the Temple of Hercules,you could just go down hill to the Roman theatre on foot.
If you don't want taxi service,you must act like real to turn down drivers' offers,or you'd be harassed to die.From my experience,salesmen or businessmen of shops or vendors were quite sticky here,but people in Amman were all right on the other hand.

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由公園往下看的景光。City views from hilltop.

中東這一代的房屋建材都是這種土黃色, 據說都被財團壟斷了。
The materials of houses are all yellowish, earthy plates,as I had heard,monopolized by big cartels.
羅馬帝國將古希臘和羅馬文化,隨著勢力擴張帶到各處,這裡城堡公園的海克力士神廟,雖然頹廢,但廟柱等建築遺跡巨大,依稀可看到當時的恢弘壯盛,而且這地點還可登高望遠,蔚藍天空可一望無際,心情非常美妙。
We can see many relics left from the times of Roman and Greece empires everywhere now in west.Temple of Hercules at Citadel Park was not exceptional,as I could still imagine its imposing and grandness.It was also the tallest spot in Amman ,where I was gladly to enjoy the panoramic view very much.The sky was absolutely blue,the color of Mediterranean Sea's.My mind was content.
石柱實際是很巨大的,我看需要6、7個人才可還抱起來。
The columns were actually gigantic,I thought It might need 6 or 7 persons hand-in-hand to make a circle of it.

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山下羅馬劇院雖然世界各處很多,但是這一座保存很好,市府單位也實際使用中,只是石階很陡,我有點懼高,看到別人爬上爬下,我都替他們心驚膽跳。
The Roman Theatre in downhill can be seen its peers everywhere in the world ,but its condition was kept well.Municipal activities still were helding at this site as well.However,its stony stairs were very high and steep,I was so worried about other people's safety,as they climbing up and down recklessly….

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山下羅馬劇場 The Roman Theater downhill

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羅馬劇場前面廣場和對面馬路住家The front square of Roman Theater and civilian houses across the road.

 

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