愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (一)。－My Very Own World

Love and Stamina

Ｍy Diary of French Way to Santiago de Compostella

Prewords

I finally got back home,safe and one whole piece intact.I think it would be wise to register what had once happened to me on the way to the holy city,Santiago in North-Western city in Spain,before my memory falls off.

To mark and commemorate a precious epic story in my life,I humbly and sincerely gratitute for
those who helped and offered me with kindness,love,and friendship throughn my journey.

前言:
我終於回家了，安全而且整塊好好地回來。
我想我最好紀錄下來，前往西班牙西北部的這個城市，聖城-聖地牙哥，在我記憶尚未全然墜落前，於這段旅程中曾經發生在我身上的事情。

我謙誠的感謝這些在我趟旅程中，曾經給于我幫助、無私溫暖、愛、和友誼的夥伴，讓我能記錄，也紀念我生命旅程中一段珍貴的史詩般壯麗故事。

Trevor Chang,07,12,2018

行路前後概略: The Sketch Map of thoughts before and after setting off.

前往聖地牙哥聖城的路徑不只一條，不管從歐洲的那一條來算，有長有短，由於風氣非常的盛行，因此各國人飛來健行的人出乎我意料之外的踴躍，而且現在有更多人依照自己的時間規劃，有人一次只走1星期，有人連續好幾年都來走，也有人一走就是好幾個月，千里風霜般的翻山越嶺，更有人只走其中一小段，現代的朝聖之路的旅程，已經非常的彈性和客製化，我這裡使用"客製化"，是因為有些國家的旅行社有規劃出售這類行程。

No matter which starting point to set off in Europe,there are more than just one way to Santiago.Some routes are long ,others are short.However,to my surprise,the way to Santiago de compostela is popular .People come hiking along the way are many and from different countries.
Moreover,nowadays people can walk on the way by their plan according to their own spare time.Some only come to walk for a week,some walk the way every year,some have walked for few months through rigid weather condition or passed over mountains,or some come to walk a fixed distance only each time.
The Way has been very flexible and customized.I say "customized",for the Way can be packaged into a tour for sale,by travel agencies in some countries.

然而，朝聖目的在體會古人的篳路襤褸艱辛的過程、和堅定的信仰和毅力外，最終還是要拜訪聖城，以便取得證書，所以即使有多種朝聖的走法和天數，仍然要符合一定的標準才能取得天主教會轄下聖城辦公室頒發的證書，(當然你也可以不要拿，就單純遊走)，方法就是提示你沿路從各個庇護所、或教堂、或合作的咖啡廳、酒吧、和餐廳的認證章，認證章是蓋在朝聖護照上的，只要能夠證明有去過這些地方就可以了，在聖城辦公室網站可以查到這些必需達到的要求，扼要得說，就是用走的需達100公里以上，騎乘腳踏車或馬匹，則需達200公里。

Nonetheless,the major purpose of pilgrimage is to experience the trial of religious faith and persistance under predicament like in old times.The final reward is to get the credential issued by Santiago Pilgrim's Office.Thus,even though there are many ways and days to walk on the Way,the pilgrims still need to meet the requirement set by Pilgrim's Office,in order to get the certificate successfully(and of course,you could simply hike as you please.After all,not every one likes to see the credential as the main purpose.)

To prove you are worthy of getting the certificate is to show all the pilgrim stamps you get along the way,from albergues,churches,or cooperated cafe shops,bars,and restaurants. The stamps are collected in your pilgrim's passport.As long as you have enough stamps to prove that you have walked through villages or towns on the way,you wouldn't have problem in getting the credential in the Holy City.

It's easy to get the relevant information of the requirement from the website of Santiago
Pilgrim's Office. Its link as follows,

http://catedraldesantiago.es/en/pilgrimage/#way

Briefly speaking,all you need is to walk over 100 kms at least to collect enough stamps(200 kms for moving by bike or horseback riding.)

我選了法國之路走，因為上一段人還在法國玩，時間差不多才南下，整整走了一個月，地理上，除法國境內不算外，西班牙共經過4個自治區: Navarra 納瓦拉自治區, Euskadi 巴斯克自治區, Cantabria 坎塔布里亞自治區, and Galicia 加利西亞自治區。距離約近800公里，路經大大小小數百村莊和城鎮，不過不需煩惱，也不用再做太多功課了，只要下載朝聖之路的App.，每天路程和規畫都好好地在那裡，照著走，朝聖者現在只要好好地照顧好自己就可以了。

I was just about to finish my tour in France,so I chose French Way.It took me one whole month to complete the Way.Geologically,I had walked over 4 Spanish autonomical districts,Navarra,Euskadi,Cantabria and Galicia.The whole length nears 800 kms.On it,I had passed by hundreds of villages and towns,some were large ,but most of them were little ones.

It is not intricate and there's no need now to do too much research before treading on the way.All you need to do is to download the application to your mobile.The App.offers each day's itinerary as good as you might have planed by yourself.Take good care of yourself is all you need to do ,and leave the rest to your app.(There are many of the mobile app.of this kind from "Google Play".Choose a newest one.)

沒有時間壓力的旅人，也不需每天走太遠，時間上是沒有規定的，走走停停是看個人需求而定。我是每天照表操課，想要實實在在地體驗，因為我不可能每年飛半個地球來走，下次真有來，體能只怕也不堪負荷了。

If you don't have time pressure,you really don't need to walk too long everyday.Basically,there is no time limit for each route.It depends on individals' need to walk on ,or stop for a rest ,or spend a night.
I followed a standard schedule,for I'd like to experience as it should have been like in old time.Besides,it is a rare opportunity to me,for I can't fly thousands of miles to get here to walk often.Next time,if I come,I wonder my physical condition could bear as it was.

Note:

其實我的狀況有些慘烈，我的1隻腳趾甲，整個被掀掉，另外2隻腳趾甲變黑，左腳足弓後來有腳底筋膜炎出現，有時走太久，膝蓋疼痛，有一次還傳導到腰骨，那次還好只剩一些些距離就到庇護所，當日休息後，就不再出現這狀況，而最後一星期，右小腿開始腫大，但是我還是走完了，我以為是我年紀太大造成，然而此行程6、70歲走的人也很多，所以是我鞋子沒選好，另外也是平常沒有這種高強度的健走造成的。

In fact,my condition was a little disastrous,so to speak.One of my toe nails was completely peeled off,and two of them turned black.My left foot started to show the symptoms of inflammation in the area of foot-arch.Sometimes,I walked too long that caused the pain in my knees.One time,the pain transmitted to my waist.But,luckily on that day it was not far from the albergue,when the pain started to act.So,I took a good rest after my arrival at the albergue,and the pain subsided there after ,and it never showed again.My right calf also started to be swollen in the last week of my itinerary.However,I still finished what I came for.

At first,I thought it was caused due to my ages.However,there were people whoes ages are more than mine,like 60s,70s.Thus,it's my fault that I didnt' choose a good pair of shoes perhaps.Besides all that,I think it was also because I didn't have prepare for this type of high-pressured hiking in my leisure time.

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Little Background小背景

法國之路 My French Way.

1.This little french town(Saint Jean Pied de Port,SJPdP) is usually the starting point of "French Way" to Santiago de Compostella（It denotes sparkling stars above Santiago's plain,figuratively speech,meaning each pilgrim is like a star in our Milky Way.)
此鎮聖讓-皮耶德波爾，通常被認定為前往聖城(聖地牙哥繁星點點的平原之意，取自每個朝聖者都是銀河中的一顆星）中”法國之路”的起點。

2.The French Route has the most historical scenes and is most treaded by pilgrims.It's been followed since 9th century for pilgrims visiting the destination of St.Jame's tomb(one of 12 apostles of Jesus Christ.)
路徑是被認為最有歷史風景和最多朝聖者使用的路，自9世紀以來，朝聖者前往最終目的地-聖雅各之墓，耶穌的12門徒之一。

3.The 1st day is the hardest day ,for I need to cross Mt.Pyrenees to Spain in Iberian Pennisula.The first 20.6km is almost ascending road.There are 26-27 kms in total for the first day.
第一天是最難的一天，因為我必需通過匹里牛斯山到伊比利半島的西班牙，總長約26-27公里，前面約20.6公里都是上升坡道。

4.When reach to the Cize Port,the highest point of Mt.Pyrenees,which was used to invade Spain by French Napoleon in old time.Thus,that's the name,"French Way" came upon the route.
當到達最高點"西茲之門"，這裡古時被法國拿破崙用來入侵西班牙的路徑，因此”法國之路”名字由來。

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Preparation for personal necessities.個人必需品的準備。

想去的人，若沒有其他行程，就儘量少帶物品，除必備盥洗用品(含大浴巾)外，少量藥品、雨衣、和睡袋是一定要的，我後來在法國運動用品店買了睡袋，才發現沒有台灣貴，所以少什麼到當地再買也可以。背包總重量以少於體重的10分之一為基準，每個庇護所幾乎都有洗衣設備，所以衣物不用太多，若真的東西太重了，庇護所也提供行李運送服務，以價廉每次5歐元的費用，幫你將行李送到下一站去，朝聖者可以輕輕鬆鬆上路。(第一站要8歐元，因為較遠要翻過匹里牛斯山)。

It's the best policy to carry as little stuff as you could on the road,if you don't have any other tours attached after the Way.
In addition to personal kit of toiletries(including a large bathing tower),a little of medicine,and ointment,a raincoat and a sleeping bag are must.I later bought my own sleeping bag at one sports store in France,and I'd found it wasn't that expensive than the ones I'd seen in Taiwan.

So,basically,I could collect the things I need in local stores,

if I forgot to bring something I need with me.
The gross weight of the backpack is better not to exceed 1/10 of the carrier's body weight.

As to the clothes,there's no need to carry too much with me,for almost every albergue supplies washing facilities.The albergues also offer courier service.5 euros per delivery to your next albergue.Thus,pilgrims can relax to get on the road (The first stop -SJPdP charges 8 euros,I think it's because they need to send backpacks over Pyrenees.)

各個庇護所因為與教會合作的關係，每晚過夜費用低廉，所以整個朝聖之旅，以我一個月時間計算，從起點法國的SJPdP到最終目的地聖地牙哥，約在台幣6萬多元，可是那是因為我沿途都上昂貴的餐廳之故，早上出發就開始找咖啡館吃早餐，中午找餐廳，晚上又吃一餐，都沒有自己煮，因此，全程壓在台幣4萬多一點，或更低是可行的。有些人跑去當地雜貨店或超市，一次買好幾餐的量，這樣也是可以省很多。

Due to the cooperation with Churches,every albergue offers a cheap price for accommodation,Thus,calculated by the basis of one month in my own experience,starting from SJPdP(Saint Jean Pied de Port) in France to Santiago in Spain,it'd be about NT$60,000 or so.
However,I went to a lot of expensive restaurants along the way,by finding a cafe shop in every early morning,and restaurants for lunch and dinner.Generally,I didn't cook.Thereof,if you take care of diets properly,it is possible to lower the budget as low as NT$40,000,perhaps,if you have the habit of being tightfisted,the whole expense could be even lower.

Some people went to shop at the local grocery stores,and bought few days' meals at a time,by which they saved a lot.

歐洲青年甚至可以更省，有些人直接睡戶外，只花個5歐左右跟庇護所借浴室洗澡和洗洗衣服，老爺我比較嬌貴，這種就交給年輕人做就可以了。

I've found it's quite common for some European youngsters camp outside of any albergue or directly in the wilderness.They might spend 5 euros for a shower and a clothes washing at an albergue nearby.Anyway,I am quite fragile,Ah-ha,this kind of good stuff I'd leave it to youngsters.

似乎我說得太過容易，實際上事情也不是很複雜，只是我每天天還沒亮就出發(6:00am~7:00am)，每天至少走25-32公里，我的腳和身體承受不小的壓力，然而我並沒有多做短暫休息，仍然依照每日行程，在一個月走完法國之路，可能我個性太過頑強，加上沿路夥伴的互相打氣，我在精神上並沒有受到任何折磨，反而還很愉快的度過每一天。

It seems that I said it too easy for everything.In fact,it's not that complicated,either.I set off every morning between 6 to 7 am,when the sky and the surrendings were still in a dark pitch,and yet I got 25-32 kilometers ahead to tackle.My feet and physical endured a lot of pressure then.Nonetheless,I didn't take much brief rest.I still kept on following my everyday's schedule,so that I'd finished my French Way in a month.Perhaps,I was too obstinate to give up or be loosen up a little,or perhaps it was because my walking pals' encourgement.I didn't have much torment in my spirit then.In fact,I had spent every joyful moment within that month.

選擇踏上朝聖之路還真是一種奇蹟，或許太過有緣，冥冥中受到引導就去了，而最後一日，還真是百感交集，一言難盡，到達聖城的那一天，也是跟大家分離之日，從此各分西東，坐在飯店明亮豪華的大廳，靜靜愣愣地恍若隔世，過去一個月發生的事情，好像是做了場夢一般，我真誠希望並且祝福，對曾經伴走的朋友，和即將踏上這條路的人，幸福快樂、長長久久。

Somehow in my mind,I felt it was a miracle for a person like me stepping on the Way.Maybe I had a strong link to the journey in fate,subconsciously been led to the Way.
However,I felt words were not enough to express my feelings on the last day of this journey.There was so much to experience those were joy and sad.

Sitting quietly on a sofa at the bright and luxury lobby of my hotel,I stared blankly into the busy streets out of the lobby windows.I felt it was like being in another life after what had happened in the past month.I was like being in a dream,surreal and yet so true.

Lastly,I hereby sincerely give my best wish to those walking companions and people who are about to step on the Way,a happy life now and forever.

P.S.

1.庇護所只能讓人待到早上8:30，這之前一定要離開，想要多待幾天，就必需另尋住宿。

有些當天的落腳處，床位有些緊張(特別是較小的村莊)，如果能提早個3、4天上網訂當然很好，只是，很多人都不知道自己是否可以這樣撐過每天的健走行程，會擔心可能體力不繼提早被迫中斷，

所以許多人會邊走，等到了再找，原則上都還勉強可以找到床位，真的不行，只好再往下一個村莊走去找，提早訂當然比較好，至少地點較佳，或設備較好的庇護所可以先選定下來，庇護所和青年旅館一樣，在西班牙早上10:00到下午1:30之間是不開門營業的，有些下午2:00還關著，西班牙午休時間滿長的。

All albergues could let you stay as late as 8:30am.Travellers must leave before that time.For people who would like to stay a few more days must find other places for accommodation.

Sometimes,the quantity of available beds is limited(especially in small villages or towns),it would be ideal if travelers can get on line to pre-book beds before arrival by 3 or 4 days earlier.Nonetheless,some people have no idea if they could successfully walk through everyday's challenge,and worry sometimes,if they are forced to drop the tour ,due to bad physical condition .Thus,some people would like to find an albergue to sleep over after reaching a village.

Generally,there's no problem in find available bed in a place.If this doesn't work,then travelers' next option would be going on to the next village to find an avialable hostel to stay the night.

It's out of the question that travelers can choose a better location to stay ,or an albergue with a better facility,if they could make a reservation earlier.

Besides all that,Spanish hostels or albergues don't open doors for business between the time of 10:00 Am to 1:30 Pm,and some remain shot before 2:00 Pm.It's quite long for lunch break in Spain.

2.若途中受傷，但又想完成，可以考慮搭巴士做短暫交通，我很幸運，並沒有慘到需要用到這招。

It is all right to take bus for temporary transportation,if pilgrims are wounded or get sick on the road to holy city.I was lucky,I didn't need to take it.

    3.朝聖之路是條不同外界的路徑，路況可以是千變萬化之外，朝聖者各有不同理由，有人大愛化為信仰，
      有人無所事事而來，有人純粹當文化旅遊，也有人是為了追尋內心的真理，有人更是不知為何而來，
      不管是何理由和信仰，只要是踏上這條路的人們，都是被稱為"朝聖者"。

There are may ways to Santiago,and route condition could be diverse ,and full of surprise.
Even though every one has his or her own reasons to take on the Way,some ascends great love up to personal religious faith,some come for a purely cultural tour,some for inner pursuit of truth,some join in don't even have a righteous course at all,no matter what reasons or believes.As long as people come to tread on the path,those who are called and seen as "pilgrims".