浮光掠影-漫步馬德里近郊中世紀古城(1/2)。 @ My Very Own World

浮光掠影-漫步馬德里近郊中世紀古城(1/2)

Skimming over time

Rambling in the middle-aged towns out of Madrid

當然，在重要景點，還是那一堆該死的觀光客，
「麻煩講話不要忽然在路中停下來，請到旁邊可以嗎?"」，
「老爺我等很久了，請不要一直站在那裡搔首弄姿那麼久，我也要拍，滾開好嗎?」，
「菸可以不要噴給我也吸，可以嗎?」，
「撥頭髮請注意我有沒有在後面，好嗎?」，
「隊伍中可以不要一直碰我的背包，可以嗎?」
「不要插我隊!!」
「都給我去死~」...

啊高血壓快發作~深呼吸一下，該逃離城市一下惹...哈哈。

Sure it is,full of crowds in popular spots.
Like always,a bunch of God damned tourists in Madrid daddling long.

"Could you please not make a sudden stop while being in the middle of your walking?
Could you move aside? Do not block my way,please."

" Could you stop striking poses for so long?stop flirting with the air.
I wanna take pictures too,and I have been waiting for very long already...
Beat off !"

" Could you pay attention to where you exhale your smoke at ? Do not blow on my face.I don't wanna breathe your second hand cigarettes."

"Could you watch your back when you sway your hair like crazy? I am standing right behind you."

"Could you stop touching my backpack when we're in line? Leave some space from me,please."

"Do not cut my line !"

"Ah! die, all of you,die."

I thought my blood pressure was about to racket high.

Whoops ! time to get out of town.
Wahahahaha~

馬德里主要觀光點並沒有對喜愛看山看海的人可以產生較大的吸引力，一般以四天三夜的時間就已經足夠，即使喜歡在馬德里跑趴的人也是差不多這樣的時間就可以了，晚上10點半過後，可以開始外出準備"動次"、"動次"，三晚下來，加上白天逛街購物，這樣的城市旅遊已經可以了。

In my opinions,the touristic spots in Madrid city wouldn't have enough appeals to those visitors, who love to close to nature.

Generally a package of 3 nights/4 days in Madrid would be enough for the city tour.

It's also enough for club goers to have fun at night,too.

Usually, revelers could shop at daytime,and go parties in the night.
There are diverse types of clubs and bars to choose from after 10:30 pm.

All you need to do is just to get ready for the nights' ecstasy,get ready to lost yourselves in the heavy thumps of electronic music.

市中心的太陽門廣場客人總是天天要滿出來一樣，完全不需要陸客。

若嫌馬德里城市旅遊不夠滿足心靈的充實，幸好首都馬德里近郊有三個知名的衛星城鎮，

而且都是聯合國教科文組織列為世界文化遺產的中世紀小城可以玩耍，紓解住在馬德里市的枯燥生活。

If Madrid's city tour is not good enough to fulfill your spiritual needs,luckily,there are 3 well-known satellite towns to play around at least.They are all middle-aged towns,and all listed in UNESCO.A perfect choice to release the city dullness in Madrid.

(For party goers,Madrid is a heaven.So don't get me wrong.)

若想以一日遊的方式，對遠道從台灣去的國人就太過可惜了，然而，每個人對旅遊的要求並不一定，因此市面上當地旅行社有推出近郊一日遊行程，通常會包一餐和交通，並附上導遊，在街上就可看到促銷廣告，或直接上網查即可，這類旅遊安排很常見，單一目的地，價碼會落在75、135歐元以上，三個中世紀古鎮一般可分為2天，通常將馬德里北部的阿維拉和塞哥維亞綁在一起，南部的托利多另排一天。

It would be a pity for my people to tour these UNESCO towns by one-day package only,after flying thousands of miles.

However,it is not necessary so,for every one has his or her individual needs to traveling.
Nonetheless,it is still very common and easy to find local travel agencies' advertisement for this type of tours.

It's so easy to get by searching on line or you can find those promotion ads put on the streets everywhere.

Generally,it consists of one meal,the arrangement of vehicles,and an experienced tour guide.

For one single destination,the price could fall in the range of 75 euros to 135 euros.

The local travel agencies usually bind Avila and Segovia together for one day,

and sell another day for southern city,Toledo,or Toledo with other activities.

西班牙皇宮博物館外面排隊的人潮，也完全不用陸客

筆者是各在當地住上一日做深度漫遊，有趕行程的背包客，也可以做一日來回馬德里的安排，只是我認為馬德里市區的住宿價碼，以同等品質比較，反而會比這三個小鎮貴很多，由於交通方便和單趟距離最遠的亞維拉也不會超過2小時半，我倒是不急著當日趕回馬德里，記得事前先訂好房間，可以有好價錢。
I spent a night in all 3 towns respectively,but it is not an ideal way for backpackers, who are under time pressure.

Thus,the alternative is to travel to and fro Madrid within the same day between any of these 3 middle-aged towns.
However,compared the prices of hotels in any of these 3 towns to Madrid's,these towns offered accommodation with less expensive price than you'd get in Madrid,under the condition of similar hotel quality.
Since the transportation was convenient,and the farthest distance for one single trip was less than 2 and a half hours(Avila),that made me not in a hurry to get back Madrid.

Anyway,remember to make a reservation earlier,you might get a better deal with hotels in town.

那就進來看看吧。
Then,come in and have some fun.

人滿為患的麗池公園更不需要陸客

(一)、塞哥維亞

Segovia

How to get to Segovia from Madrid?
如何從馬德里到塞哥維亞?

搭地鐵到Moncloa站後，在該站抬頭按照指標，到售票處買票轉乘Avenza巴士到Segovia，每日班次很多，車費約5歐元，乘車時間約1小時25分鐘，不需先買來回票，這樣在塞哥維亞遊玩時比較彈性，回程時跟在塞哥維亞是同一巴士總站上下車，到時再買票回馬德里即可。
The transportation is so easy as below stated,
Take Metro to get to the Moncloa station,then by following the guiding signs hung above to get to the ticket office at the station,

and buy a one-way ticket from Avenza Bus to Segovia.

The buses commuting between Madrid and Segovia are many.The fare is about 5 Euros,and it takes about 1 hour and 25 minutes.Thus,there's no need to buy round-tickets beforehand,so as to make flexible time of staying in Segovia.

When returning back to Madrid,just get the tickets in the Segovia bus station,

that is the same station as you get off when arrive.

Then...
My touring plan...if any,haha.

該城有主要三個觀光點:羅馬時期建的輸水道、塞哥維亞主教座堂Catedral de Segovia
、和塞哥維亞阿卡薩城堡。
There are three main touristic spots,
The Aquaduct that built in Roman Times,
Cathedral Segovia,
and the Alcazar Castle Segovia.

原則上舊城區並不大，複雜度為零，而且路標很清楚，區內只要走路都可到達，舊城區一般都在半徑2公里以內，當然歷代以來的城市發展後，

整體範圍是廣大的，但觀光客也沒興趣到新開發地區去就是。
Basically,the old town area is not large,the radius is just within 2 kolimeters around,which making touring around town easy,

and the road signs are clearly shown.Every corner in town can be reached on foot.

The modern Segovia city,of course,is big with new developing areas.

However,it's not the points for tourists going to those new developed areas in city.

首先出巴士站大樓，過馬路後往右手邊轉個街角，就馬上可以看到前方位於阿索格霍廣場Plaza Azoguejo上的輸水道建物，

廣場上的旅客服務中心可以拿免費地圖。

Go across the road to the opposite to the bus station building first of all when arrive,

then turn the corner at the right hand side,you'll immediately see the Aquaduct building at the plaza Azoguejo.
In addition,the Tourists Service Center at the plaza offers map for free.

輸水道 The Aquaduct

該建物是知名地標，遊覽車一車一車的載人來，可以看看拍照到底會有多少路人一起入鏡，哈哈，真是煩死了。
The Aquaduct is a renowed landmark that attracts buses loaded with customers.People spreaded all over the place,taking photos.

The crowds would be an interesting challenge and mischievous crowns to be together with you in your own photos.
So annoying,haha.

廣場上除旅客服務中心外，對面街角有間百年知名餐廳Meson De Candido，多位名人造訪，費用雖貴一些些，但不會誇張，餐廳本身就是古蹟，保留多處中世紀裝潢特色，店內古井也還留著，外表看起來很配旁邊的輸水道建築，充滿中世紀古色古香味道，裏頭空間裝潢復古講究，3樓各有吧檯和櫃檯，也賣當地知名菜餚烤乳豬，但我不敢吃小朋友，所以另點香瓜配知名伊比利半島火腿，其滋味之香甜是我今年旅遊以來的第一名，不過這道菜可不是創新，

我記得早就風行多年，強在伊比利半島火腿的品質本就很高尚(所以沒有豬瘟的台灣，要很珍惜)。

Except the Tourists Service Center,there's a famous,hundred-old restaurant,Meson De Candido,which many celebrities had visited.
The price from the menu seemed to be a little higher,but still within reasonable range.
Meson De Candido is also a remaining legacy from middle ages ,and is a perfect match to the Aquaduct outside. Every story of the restaurant had an bar and a counter,and the deco was full of middle-aged motif,including an old well.The decoration with the the middle-aged theme was set wholely in details.(It's because the restaurant is a historical site as well.)

The Roasted piggy is the famous cuisine from Segovia.Meson De Candido was also selling it.

However,I was kinda timid to eat any young animals in my life.

Eating baby animals is a sin to me.

So,I ordered another dish,the well-known Iberian Ham with sweet melons,which could be ranked the number one dish on my mind in this year's journey.The sweet taste of melons together with Iberian ham's particular smell and texture was dancing on my palats like being in a luxury banquet.
Nonetheless,this dish was not a new created,but has been prevailing for years.

(So ,you see.Taiwanese should cherish what we have done in preventing from Swine Flu.)

西元一世紀建的羅馬時期輸水道保存良好，1985年列為世界遺產。在輸水道的這一頭，沿著石階往山丘上去，可以登高欣賞整個廣場外，

還可以直接去舊城中心，石階入口就在山丘下的阿索格霍廣場邊，旅客服務中心旁。

The Aquaduct was built in the 1st century,and well-kept.It was enlisted as UNESCO assets in 1985.

The entrance that leading to the old town center is by the Tourist center located at the Plaza Azoguejo.

When getting up the stony stairs to the top of the hill,where the entrance to the old town is.

You'll get the panoramic views over the plaza after.

現場貼近觀看更是雄偉壯觀，另外建議有時間的國人，可以自行沿著輸水道往另一頭隱藏路徑去，沿路漫步一直到達另一公園處的入水口，

觀光客逐漸減少，此段的輸水道卻展現不同風情，非常的亙古樸實，著實優雅古典。

It seemed even more grand when looking close at the Aquaduct.
I suggest that visitors should spend some time in touring at the other end of the Aquaduct.

Keep following the Aquaduct,before long,you'll reach its water entrance where nears a park.

You would notice soon that tourists are rarely reach here.

It showed a different atmosphere of the Aquaduct,

elegant , classic ,quite time-enduring and down-to-earth.

輸水道17公里長，前13公里都在地下，入城後也沒入地裡，另有隱藏主水道Mother Channel，

不過我們遊客不需追究考古，我們是來玩的，沿著水道漫步悠閒自在就很好了。
It said the total length of the Aquaduct was about 17 kms,and the first 13 kms was buried underground.

There was another underground water channel called "Mother Channel".
However,I think tourists don't need to do the researches here.

I came for fun,so it'd been enough for me to stroll slowly along with it.

塞哥維亞主教座堂

Catedral de Segovia

舊城中心以塞哥維亞主教座堂所在的主廣場Plaza Major為主，廣場是古時執行犯人刑罰、重要集會、和臨時雜貨蔬果買賣的市場所在地，早上該廣場仍然遵循古習，發財車打開接個防雨棚，各式雜貨的攤子就都擺起來了，馬上變成菜市場，近午市場時間結束，清潔人員會連同噴水車一起清洗，四周多家餐廳，戶外桌椅、陽傘一擺，馬上就有歐洲傳統戶外用餐或飲酒的常見景色。。

The center of the old town is Plaza Major,where criminals received their execution(beheaded),people gatherings,and served as a temporary morning market,selling vegetables,fruit,all sorts of groceries in old times.

People nowadays still follow suit.Vendors open their mini vans attached a rain proof awning.Vola! it's set.The plaza turns into a market right away.

It closes at noon time for monring market,then the water truck comes in to clear the site by injeting strong water on the ground(efficiently.)

There are many restaurants at the plaza.As long as the tables and chairs were laid out in front of their restaurants outdoors,it soon become the usual sight that we see in Europe.

廣場一隅的主教座堂是16世紀中世紀建物，教堂和鐘樓都需買票入場，由於文藝復興風格強烈，教堂內的禮拜室的主神像，各個徐徐如生，

這是西班牙在與宗教有關的雕像的特色之一，非常的精細和俗世化。

On the corner of the plaza is the archibishop's church(Catedral de Segovia) built in 16th century.
I needed to buy tickets for the bell tower and the entrance admission.
The style of Renaissaince was plain to see,for all statues in each chaple looked so vividly alive,

which is a signatured style in Spanish religious sculptures.

It's made very detailed and earthy like.

最後必訪的地點就是阿卡薩城堡，號稱是迪士尼樂園白雪公主城堡的原型，城堡格局很是規矩，雖然園方只開放前面中庭四周屋舍，但可登上前面城堡高塔(卡斯提爾之約翰二世塔)上的平台登高望遠Tower of John II of Castile，大致上可算好逛，然而筆者認為城堡四周的公園和景觀，也是一等一的大景，

在該處多所停留和走動，風情美不勝收，相信冬季下雪會更加美麗。

The last site to visit in my list was the Alcazar Castle，and it couldn't be missed.
It is the prototype of Snow White Castle in Disneyland.
The layout of the castle was square and neat.Visitors couldn't see it all,for the rear part of the castle was not opened to the public.
However,tourists could go up to the rooftop,where the tower is(Tower of Joan II de Castilla).Generally,the touring route inside the castle was well managed and kept simple.When on the platform of the rooftop,the panoramic view was excellent.It was a delightful view to appreciate the surrounding park and towns.In my opinion,it would be even greater and prettier to see in winter with snow.

內部屋舍裝潢很容易發現在以基督教為主調之外，也有著穆斯林的痕跡，那是卡斯提爾王國在9世紀初建時，是摩爾人所建和掌控，後期君主變成是基督徒的緣故，這類阿卡薩Alcazar城堡在西班牙和葡萄牙都有不少，Alcazar在阿拉伯文是指城堡、王宮的意思，指的是本由信奉回教的摩爾人建造，但是後由基督君主掌控的堡壘，或指由信奉基督的君主建造的摩爾人。

The inner deco was very easily found the trances of Muslim style covered by the surface that was toned with Christian motif.It's because Castilla kingdom was controlled by Moors from the beginning of establishment in the 9th century.

Thereafter,the kingdom transferred to the hands of Christian kings,which transformed the building style.

There are many castles in Spain and Portugal like this one.
"Alcazar" in Arabian words means "castle",or "Palace".

Thus,Alcazar castles also mean that castles or palaces built by Muslim Moors,but late transferred to Christian Kings,

or fortresses built directly by Moor kings who believed in Christianity.

城堡所在往山下的岩壁，已經被開發成山坡公園，有建階梯通往山下，走過埃雷斯馬河Rio Eresma的橋樑，可到小景點真十字教堂Iglesia de la Vera Cruz，但是階梯入口在往城堡外面的路邊，粗心的人可能會錯過，而且感覺很陡，不過親自走過是覺得還好，反過來要由山下往上，入口卻有3個，沿著山下路邊走就可以發現，不會很難，距離也都不遠，最後入口是舊城門拉克勞斯特拉拱門El Arco de La Claustra，因此不想再回城堡的人，

可以直接由此門一路散步回舊城主廣場。

The hill walls below the palace were cut into few trails that leading to the downhill and cut through a hill park.

When got down to the hill,kept walking further to pass a bridge that traversed a small stream-River Rio Eresma,then I saw a church,Iglesia de la Vera Cruz,a small tourist site.

The stairs on the trails that leading to the downhill looked at first steepy,but actually not when I walked down myself.

When getting back,I had got at least 3 entrances to choose.They were not far from each other and easy to be spotted.The one I used was an arch,El Arco de La Claustra that leading me get back to the Plaza Major.So I didn't need to walk back to the palace again.

在中世紀舊城漫步漸漸成為我的喜愛活動，眼裡看著綠枝藤蔓亂竄在石壁間，腳上踏著高低不平的石磚路面，路經石砌階梯蜿蜒的屋間巷弄，在時光錯置的困惑中，有著說不出的悠閒淡然。

It was becoming a pleasant hobby,and I felt calm and peaceful,

when seeing green weeds popped among small rocks,

tree twigs sprawling out of stoney walls,

treading on rugged cobbled street floor,

or even strolling on a winding lane between houses in these middle-aged towns.
I was getting accustomed to the coziness and easiness of illusive time it brought.