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Day 26

(The End)
康得薩-薩里亞
Hospital de Condesa to Sarria
33.4 kms

 

  一個結束的開始...

A beginning of an end...

 

昨天有個烏克蘭的人遲遲才到來,庇護所的接待櫃台已經沒有人在,Siesta時間別想有人來處理,我說你還是先進去把東西放下,等有人再出來辦理入住手續,反正今天也還沒滿,裡面有空床位,我這麼建議他是我假設如果我是他的處境之下,我會如何處理,這些年常常當起背包客,我也覺得我愈來愈刁鑽,整個世界都是我的一般,哈哈,

他最後也順利入住,還睡我隔壁床。他長得很健壯,個性感覺滿難搞的樣子,我還真沒遇過烏克蘭人呢!

An Ukranian hiker came in late.It'd passed noon time already,and there's no anyone at the reception desk to get him checked in.The timing for him was not right at the time of Siesta.I suggested him put down his backpack and get some rest before someone came to help.It was not full and there were many unoccupied beds.

If I were in his shoes,I would have done this.I thought I have been tough after years of traveling around overseas.

I was used to seeing the whole world was mine,and no one could take it away from me,haha.

Anyway,he finished the checking-in later on,and got a bed beside me.He was strong but looked difficult to get along with.
He was the first Ukrainian I had met.I was kinda curious about him though
.

 

今早,其他健行夥伴又瘋瘋的一早就起床出發了,總之我沒多久就爬了一大段很陡的長坡,中途還遇上那位烏克蘭人,他好像有點體力透支,正站在路旁喘,

我也懶得陪他,四周還這麼黑,打聲招呼就自顧自地走了。

Again,Walking pals were nuts,got up so early to set off.
Anyway,I went up a very steep slope myself later,and then I met the Ukrainian.He was panting heavily and standing by the road.He looked beaten already.
I didn't stop to talk to him.I simply greeted him and then kept on going up.After all,it's still dark and I didn't have the mood to start a chitchat with him.

 

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登上後四周都還黑漆漆的,但有一隻跟人一樣大的狗跑來纏我,看來我還是今早少數先上來的人,那狗跟我好像還很親近的,反正我也不怕大隻狗,小隻的比較可怕,結果狗狗是旁邊咖啡店養的,我就進去休息順便喝了今天第一杯咖啡,狗狗又跑來討拍,我的天喔~肚子都翻給我摸,我有認識你嗎?

I finally stepped on the top of the ascending slope,and there was a big dog waiting for welcoming me.
It turned out I might be the first few to get up there this morning.It was still dark.
I wasn't afraid of bigger than normal dogs.In fact,the dog was sticking to me,quite intimate though.
The dog followed me into a cafe shop by the road.It turned out it was raised by the host of the cafe shop.I had my first coffee today,and felt so blessed after my first sip of it.

Then the dog came to play with me.What the heck?Oh~dear.The dog wanted me to pat him.It even turned over to show me its belly.

Why? "Do I know you?"

 

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山中人家常養狗的樣子,今天很遠,我又走了很久,不多久,又來一黑一白的拉不拉多犬,我最怕狗往我的腳過來,我的天,被攻擊怎麼辦?我不得不慢了下來,免得追過來咬我,我腳受傷可跑不快,結果黑色那隻竟然跳到我的手臂,搖尾裝可愛討拍!,白色那隻也過來湊熱鬧,什麼!我今天是很奇怪嗎?啊!狗狗的腳不乾淨,把我外套搞髒了,還不讓我走,走到哪跟到哪,啊!有其他人從後面過來了,我趕快把狗狗注意力轉給別人,然後趁機溜走,不然今天我不知道要走到什麼時候。

People living in country loved to raise dogs here as it seemed to me.I went a long way today,slowly as usual dued to my feet's problem.Not long,a pair of Labradors,a white and a black ,came tailing me anywhere.My Goodness,what if they attacked me I thought so in mind.

I had to slow down my paces in case they were intrigued to follow,or even worse they were enticed to bite.I couldn't run fast this way,if they decided to attack.
They got closer,and then all of a sudden,the black Labrador jumped on me.I raised my right arm to ward it off.But it put his fore legs on my arm and started to wiggle.

Oh,boy,you're so cute.I quickly understood the situation that the dog wanted to be patted by me.The white one also came up.
What the heck?! Was today my dogs' day or something?I was very busy,and they got my coat dirty.
I couldn't shake them off at this moment.They're following me anywhere.
I noticed some other hikers coming from my back,then I quickly transferred the dogs attention to their new targets,

and then hurried off,or I didn't know how long I would be postponed by these two cuties.
 

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然而,今天我蠻有企圖心的,因為我想縮短這朝聖之旅的日程,所以我拼命走了33.4公里,來到了薩里亞。
今天到了薩里亞市意謂著,我距離聖地牙哥只剩100公里了。

However,I was quite ambitious today.I wanted to shorten this journey,so I had walked quite some Ks,33.4,to reach Sarria.
Being in Sarria means there was only 100 kms left to Holy City, Santiago.I was very near now.

 

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我的薩里亞庇護所訂得太遠,到達時都快死了,進入修道院附設的青年旅館,看起來還不錯,沒想到竟然有跳蚤,也是我法國之路唯一被床蝨攻擊的一間-

Albergue Monasterio De La Magdalena,如果你到薩里亞,那就遠離這間吧,被叮得滿腳滿手的,氣死了。
另外,剛到領我寄來的行李時,因為今天走太遠,被加收費用了,今天真是過得未免也~太好了。

My albergue tonight was very far from city center.Actually it was on the edge of Sarria city.When I reached it,I thought I was going to see my God soon.
The albergue was a convent looked nice and clean,but I was surprised to be bitten by fleas at night.

I was so pissed off,because all my arms and legs were full of bitten marks,

and the albergue(Albergue Monasterio De La Magdalena) was the only one that had fleas rampaged in my journey.
If you come,stay away from this one.
Besides all that,I needed to pay extra courier fee for my backpack at the reception counter,

because I walked too long today.The distance was so long that the courier company wanted to charge me more.
Great,so great~what a great day I had today!

 

 

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Day 27

薩里亞-岡薩兒

Sarria to Gonzar
31 kms

 

長路漫漫...

Long and winding Road...
 

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今天原野上滿布濃濃的晨霧,田野勾畫成如詩如夢的景色。
我正試著盡快完成這個旅程,這個決定讓我現在天天都走超過30公里。
酸嗎?當然,但同時我每天一直遇見不同的人。所以我是精神上充滿精力,可惜我的腿不是,還好每次經過長夜的休息後,總會恢復一些。

The morning mist floating upon the green fields looked like being in a poetic and picturesque dream.
I was trying to finish this journey as soon as I could,making me walk over 30 ks everyday now.
Sore? Sure,but I met different people everyday,making me feel spiritually energetic.
Unfortunately,my legs weren't great.However,they would restore a little after a long night's rest.

 

喔~今天在Portomarin終於遇到台灣人了,她們兩個是我全程到目前遇到的第二組人。
我的策略是十月五日到聖城(飯店都訂好了,No show會扣錢),所以最後三天希望一切順利。

Oh,today,I finally met other 2 Taiwaneses.They were my 2nd group from my country.
My itinerary was to get in Santiago on Oct.5th.(I had booked a hotel already,so if I hadn't shown,I would be fined for one night's fee.)
I hoped everything went smoothely.

 

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在Portomarin吃過午餐後,繼續往前走,在城市的入口,就遇見一個加拿大人,就一起走,他也是要到聖地牙哥去,而且他已經走好幾個月了,我幫他算了算,

他大概到聖地牙哥的話,今年共走了1,600公里!!?
他是瘋了咩!?我不敢問他理由啦,我們可是還會碰頭呢。

我們一路相伴到庇護所,他似乎法語強過英文,他很喜歡我的步調節奏,說若不是我陪走,今天他會很辛苦,他的左腳套著鋼架,可是好像沒影響他的動作,我們後來到聖城目的地前,總會在庇護所碰到面,不過我已經忘了他的名字,因為是法語口音,我一時也記不住,後來就真的忘了,哈哈。

After having my lunch in Portomarin,I resumed my walking.
At the entrance of Portomarin,I met him.
A Canadian guy,who had been walking many months already.Since he was going to Santiago too,I went together with him.

On the way to my albergue,we talked and walked,then he told me something about him,etc.
I made a rough calculation about the length he had walked.It's about 1,600 kms in total this year.
Crazy?Wasn't he?But I didn't dare to ask him the reason of doing so.Anyway,We might meet again.
I should have thought so ,but on Camino de Santiago,I had already met diverse people.
So a person like him wasn't so weird to me anymore.

We kept each other as companions until to my albergue.His French seemed better than his English.He told me if not for me walking with him.

He might feel very difficult today,and he liked my pacing speed.
His left leg was hooked with steel frames that helped him walk.But it didn't show any obstacle to his motion.

I frequented to meet him before arriving in Santiago in next few days.
But now,I had already forgotten his name,because he had a strong French accent that made me hard to memorize his name.
In a few days,I,then did really forget his name.Haha.

 

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在躺在庇護所下面的床上,是上下層那種,看著上面床板寫一些有的沒的?爛死了,竟然沒人寫黃色的,哈哈哈。

Now,lying on lower bed in my albergue.The beds were bunks.
People who once slept here had written something on my bed's ceiling(my upper bunk's board.)
Lame~,nothing was about pornography,Haha.

 

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Day 28
岡薩兒-梅利德
From Gonzar to Melide
32 kms

 

我的身軀是我的戰場,不是我的所有王國。
My body is my battlefield,not my kingdom.

 

倒數第三天,身體的疲憊和滿腳的傷,在高聳理想激勵下,身體已成意志的爭戰所在,朝聖之路的完成,才是我王國的最終勝利。

The 3rd day in countdown.
My fatigue and the wounds on my feet were the support of high and holy ambition.All my injury now seemed nothing,for my body had become the battlefield of my will.

Only the completion of Camino de Santiago would be the final victory of my kingdom.

 

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今天中午在帕拉斯德雷又遇到那第二組的台灣人,怎麼跟我一樣猛,可是看起來怎麼這麼好整以暇,原來她們改搭巴士,

我既然要體驗朝聖之旅的原汁原味,當然玩得要道地,不過,我會不會太認真了?
哈,人生就是這樣,隨人作事,反正天在看就好。

I bumped into the 2nd group of Taiwaneses again in Palas de Rei.
At first,I thought,wow~,they were as good as I was,walked so many kilometers,but it turned out they took a bus instead.
My opinion is,
If I wanted to experience the original Camino de Santiago,I'd better play it real,and I'd played it hard here.
Nonetheless,I questioned myself too,"Am I too serious about this?".
A~ha, well,this is life.
It doesn't matter that much,as long as we do things with real sincerity.
There's no need to remorse about it.

 

梅利德是較大的城市,所以便利。

Melide was a big city.
Everything was convenient here.
 

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剩2天,我既累又期待,剩53 公里...現在回想起來,我好厲害說!!當然這裡有更多怪物級的人。
不過朝聖之旅是個人的試煉場,不要跟別人比快,而是要自行好好享受一路而來的旅程,再說一次,這不是比賽,而是享受人生。

2 days left,I was tired but also excited. Only 53 kms left...
Now,I think back,I've found I was really excellent myself.I don't remember exactly how I went through all difficulties.
There were certainly more other men and women,who deserve my appraisal as well.
However,the journey is an individual discipline.There's no need to compete with others,but enjoying every moment along the way.
This is not a contest,not a race,instead of living in the moment.

 

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Day 29
梅利德-Santa Irene
From Melide to Santo Irene.
30 kms

 


最終一人上路了...
Alone on the road.. at last...

之前即使分開走,多少都還有其他人一起出門,但是今天早上,我一出門後,走起來感覺特別孤寂,是啊,這不就跟人生一樣嗎?遲早,我們都必需自行走完自己的旅程...

After getting out of the door everyday,I could see others walking ahead of me or fell behind,more or less.
But this morning,I felt particularly lonely when started walking on the road.
Yeah, wasn't it like in our own real life?
Sooner or later,each one of us has to go alone to finish our last and very own journey...

 

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到達聖地牙哥之前,我還有約53公里要走完,所以今天我想先走個30公里,這樣明天就只要走約22公里就可以了,這樣我比較沒壓力,

而且走入聖城時也比較人模人樣,不會看起來很狼狽。

I had 53 kms to walk over ,before reaching Santiago, and tomorrow would be my last day on Camino de Santiago.
Thus,I wanted to walk 30 kms by tomorrow,so that I only had 22kms left for tomorrow,

and which could make me look less stressed and presentable as I walking into the Holy City.
 

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今晚就睡在聖城前一個小小的村裡,可能只有不到百人的小村莊Santa Irene,網路上訂的,由於還要從大馬路走入樹林裡,很是偏僻,庇護所主人很是辛苦吧?不過主人說從他那裏往另一邊走,也可以接上朝聖之路,不需再繞回去,這樣一切都底定了。
不管如何,朝聖之旅就是這樣了,明天,我終於要進城了。
講個小故事,其實是古代羅馬時期的習俗,外地人入城或入鎮,都要在城外的公共浴室先淨身,才能入城。
而我剛洗完澡,所以...
我已經準備好了...

Tonight,I was staying in a very little village,Santa Irene,I thought its population should be less than 100.
It's my last albergue before entering Santiago tomorrow.
It was away from the main freeway.I had to walk deeper into a woods.It looked quite remote and secluded.
The host of my albergue must be hard in keeping the albergue running.
However,the host advised me that there's no need to go back to the main freeway,just go the other way,then I could reconnect with the route of Camino de Santiago soon.
Then,everything was set.Tomorrow...At last...

I knew a custom about entering cities or towns in ancient Roman times,
Which was for people, who comimg from outside and wanting to enter a town or city,must bathe themselves at the public bathhouse before entering.
And I just had my shower,so...
I was ready...

 

 

 

 

Day 30

聖塔艾琳-聖地牙哥
Santa Irene to Santiago
22 kms

 

傳奇繼續傳頌著...
The legend keeps on...
 

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這最後的22公里並沒有我想像得來的輕鬆,黑沉的清晨中,鄉間農家院子傳來狗吠聲,要不是被關在院子裡,大概要跑出來咬我了吧。
放眼看去,一片漆黑,還好民宿主人有事先告知路徑,不久我就穿越田野,步上最後的一程。

The last 22 kms didn't go well as I had expected.
I set off in a very early morning as usual.The barking of dogs locked in farmers' yards was piercing through the dark air into my ears.

I guessed if they were not locked in their masters' yards,they might now have jumped on and bitten me already.
I stood still and stared into the front.All I saw was nothing but silhouettes in pictch dark surroundings.
I should have feared,but my hostel's host had already given me the direction.
So,I went directly through the outdoors fields.

Before long,I had already stepped on my last flight of journey.
 

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沿路漸漸有同伴加入,然而此時天尚未明,我們又走入一片樹林,這就是聖城前的繁星點點的平原,當我們慢慢穿出森林路,天也變亮,
"我彷彿獨行於黑暗的山谷,四周骸骨散佈我的路途,儘管我身疲力竭,容貌憔悴,然而我心的牧人,以愛之名,護衛和領引我身行向光明前程"
-Trevor Chang.

Gradually,more people walked to join me.Even though sky was not bright yet,we threw ourselves into a wild woods.The woods should be the plain lit with stars before holy city as it was said.
We went slowly through the woods at last,and sun had risen bright out of the woods.

"I walked alone in a dark valley it seemed,and shattered skeletons were scattering on my path.
Despite my exhausting strength and withering looks,the shepherd of my mind,in the name of love,guarded and guided me towards the bright exit."-Trevor Chang.

 

 

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啊!終於,走出了樹林,前面是高速公路,時不時有飛機聲音,那麼有機場在附近嗎?
愈來愈多人聚集,看來我還要越過前面高山,才能真正進入聖城的市區。
走在路上,連學校的小朋友也在老師帶領下加入了朝聖之旅的最後一段路,我們都是要前往最終目的地,繁星點點平原的聖地牙哥。

At last,I walked out of the woods.There was a high way by the route,and I could hear the sound of airplanes hovering over.I wondered if there's a airport nearby?
More and more people were coming together on the same way.I could see now that I had to cross the hill ahead to the other side,where was the area of holy city.
On the road,even school kids were joining in the last period of Camino de Santiago.
We were all heading to the final destination,Santiago de Compostella.


 

我心裡盤算著今天如果順利,我可以在中午之前抵達,剛好參加中午時段的彌撒大典,下午可以去參觀耶蘇十二門徒之一聖雅各的陵墓。

可是我的腳今天狀況不佳,所以我走的很慢,我不知道今天腳是怎樣?可能最近太過操了。
我腳好痛,怎麼路愈來愈難走?而且還好像好遠?不是才22公里嗎?
我整個開始沉默無語起來...

"If I could make it before noon",my mind started to ponder,"I could attend the Mass at noon time.In the afternoon,I could go to see the tomb of St.Jacob,the 12th apostle of Jesus Christ."

But my legs were in terrible condition today.So,I had been walking slowly now.I didn't know why my legs starting to play naughty.Perhaps,I had been over-exhausted lately.
My legs were really painful,and I still fell behind from my destination.Wasn't it only 22 kilometers today?
I began being silent,for my wounds really got me there.

 

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我在途中又結識了一位旅行社導遊,跟著她一起邊走邊聊天,似乎對我前進的進度有幫助,不過後來我們到達山中的一間咖啡廳,我就撇下她去休息了,因為她才走一星期,而我已經一個月了,何況我腳有傷,實在無法這樣趕路,還是自己走比較好。

A tour guide came to acquaint and chat with me.We walked and shot breeze for a while,which seemed to assist my walking pace.Then,later we reached a cafe shop,where many pilgrims stopped for a break,and I also needed a break.So I said goodbye to her and we were parted thereafter.I did need a break,for I had been walking for a whole month,but she had just started to walk for a week.I couldn't walk this way with companions aside any longer,besides my feet were injured.I had better walk on my own way.

整個狀況跟我事前想的不一樣,慘了,硬拚一下吧,都最後一天了。
翻過了山頂,好不容易往下坡走,可是沒有像我這樣經驗的人,大概不知道,往下走對我的腳反而更痛苦,愈走愈慢了,終究還是會走到,我在最後下坡地有遇到另一組台灣家庭,因為那個媽媽在唱我們的流行歌曲,我聽到了,但是我沒有去攀緣認識。

The whole condition wasn't like what I had expected and planned.Dame,it's my last day on Camino de Santiago,I wanted to finish it no matter what.
I walked over the top of the hill to face a long slope down to the bottom.
Generally,people would think it's less stressful to descend.However,I had been wounded,to me,it's more painful to go down,for it pressing more stress on my knees and feet.
I kept on moving forward slower and slower,even so,I arrived at the foot of the hill.
On my last flight of the slope,I heard someone was singing Taiwanese pop songs.The family in the few steps ahead must come from my country too.

I didn't go up to make acquaintance,but I felt nice to have people from the same place as mine.
 

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走下最後坡道,越過跨越鐵路的陸橋,終於進入市區。
我也高興不起來,因為太痛了,而且從聖地牙哥市區邊緣到十世紀開始大量建造的舊城區,都還不知道要多久,不過至少是現代化都市了,咖啡廳、餐廳、汽車等等等,

都讓我很熟悉舒服,只是...有點疑問,怎麼跟我想的不一樣?新市區很會讓我迷糊。

I walked down the last slope and then went across the overpass astride the railways to finally enter Santiago city.
I wasn't much happy at all dued to my legs.I had been labouring too much,and I had no idea how long it would still take me from the city edge to its old town area,

that was heavily built in 10th century.

Santiago was so modern so far,and which made me feel a little comfortable at least.Everything was so familiar in every big city in the world,cafe shops,restaurants,automobiles...etc.

I was so derailed in mind from my original anticipation,for new city area confused me a lot.

跟著貝殼標誌,走了一大段的路,忽然步上一條往上的街道,石板路、古色古香的味道,哈,是了,這才是聖城,忽然我那加拿大朋友從背後打了我一下,笑著說我也來了,能遇上老朋友是高興,不過我說我腳很痛,請他自行先走吧,我以為還會碰面,事後並沒有再見到他。

Following seashell marks for a long distance,then I came to face a obvious ascending road paved with cobble stones.

The motif turned into ancient that floating in the air.Yes,it must be the Holy City.
My Canadian friend patted on my back out of nowhere,saying "here I am too".It was really nice to meet old acquaintance,but my feet were killing me,

so I let him go ahead.I didn't want to slow him down.

I thought we would meet again soon,but no,I had never seen him again.

 

LnS021-030-The Way1616.jpg

 

我既然已經進入聖城,那就先到聖城辦公室去申領朝聖者證書,沿途經過很多非常棒的建築,只不過腳痛到沒有心情欣賞,當下決定,辦好證書後,就回飯店休息,明日再好好來玩,狼狽到主廣場,啊!真是不得了,顧不得腳傷,我不禁停下腳步四周環顧起來,太令人驚嘆了,果然,聖城完全不同沿路上的其他大型主教座堂,根本就是天上人間,讚嘆了一會,還是先辦正事吧,走下古典的階梯通道,有點不敢相信身處的環境是真的,這是我的聖城初體驗,難怪人們比較希望親身體驗第一次的感覺,

我想第二次再來,決不會像第一次這般感動。

 

I went to the office to redeem my credential,since I had had no other emergency to tackle.
All the buildings along the way were excellent.I just didn't have much mood to appreciate dued to my poor feet.

Thus,I had made up my mind to find my hotel after getting my credential.I was going to stay here for a few days.Thus there's no rush to finish my tour today.

 

However,when I struggled to enter the main square in front of the Cathedral.

Ah~this was...magnificent.Yeah,it could be a human made heaven on earth.

I let along the pains in my feet,started to enjoy the view.So grand,so stunning I wanted to exclaim.

Unlike other towns or villages with also large cathedrals,

Santiago was one of a kind,yes,it could be eternal indeed.

 

Petrified for a while,I regain my senses and headed towards the office.
I hardly believed where I was being as I stepped down the ancient stairs,I was in a dram,and the dream was my first impression to Santiago.
It won't be the same for the 2nd time,which I believe till now.

 

LnS021-030-The Way1495.jpg

 

穿出舊城,回到新市區,拿著GPS定位終於找到飯店,這一個月來,每天睡在庇護所或青年旅館,今天終於可以睡在星級飯店裡的床,我的天啊,根本就是升天了,哈哈,拿著短褲比了一比,整個人瘦了一大圈,褲子不繫皮帶的話,都會直接滑下地,心情很是愉快,整頓好後,到附近街道逛逛超市,找到無人自助洗衣店,

歐洲其實可以不用現金,只要有信用卡就可以過活了。

I got back to new city area using my mobile's GPS to locate my hotel.I had slept at a albergue or a hostel for a whole month,

now I finally got to stay at a starred hotel,which was absolutely fantastic.
Standing in front of the mirror in my room,I stretched out the waist band of my shorts to find out the space between my waist and shorts was wider.

If I didn't tie it up with a belt,my shorts wouldn't hold on to my waist,but slip directly down the my ankles.
I felt lighted and cozy,and got out to the streets nearby after sorting out the stuff in my backpack,found a DIY laundry shop to do my laundry.It was no-manned laundry-shop.

All you need is to a credit card to pay the fee.
You don't really need cash in most European countries.

 

LnS021-030-The Way1513.jpg

 

 

隔天我又回到了舊城區,心緒漸漸平靜,放眼過去依舊熱鬧,陸續而來的人們,彼此招呼談笑,在廣場逗留良久,就去鄰近的Praza da Quintana去排隊,等著進去大教堂看一下聖雅各的遺骸,隊伍排好長,後來在接近入口時,一堆人開始插我隊,我真的不是很容易生氣的人,如果只是少數,也就算了,一整票人,是怎樣?腳傷加上排隊時間過久,害我當場發飆起來,我後來發現我常常在國外生氣,我真的要改進,對方就整個讓開,讓我先進入,其實就我一人進去,後面就沒人跟著來了,我也沒有久留,只是腳痛,順勢就往棺前祈禱用的墊子跪下休息,本來我想依照台灣人拜拜的舊習慣,向神明乞求個什麼,只是我跪下後,腦袋忽然一片空白,沒有,我其實沒有要祈求什麼,為什麼我要跟聖雅各求東求西?凝視著聖雅各的鑲金棺木,那就祝天下人幸福吧,我想起當初在耶穌陵墓前也是這樣,想著耶穌當時受難的艱苦,後世信仰者為何要拜著求東求西?我想因為我們小時候道教傳統上都是這樣教,佛教也賜於福報等等,習慣了吧?參訪耶穌陵墓後,到現在,當時撫摸石棺後手指冰冷的感覺還留在記憶中,聖雅各的墓室,卻出乎我意料之外,鑲金棺木,沒有想像的大,四周也沒有複雜的文藝復興風格的雕飾,當然也就沒有精美的石棺雕刻,這樣也很好啊,沒多久我就離去,算是完成一件旅遊任務。

Next day I went back to the old town with peaceful mind.It's hustle and bustle as yesterday did,and people swarmed into the square with a smile on face,chating with each other merrily.I lingered for a while,soaked myself in the happy atmosphere,before heading to the next square,Praza da Quintana.

The lines were long.I was also waiting patiently with others in line.We all intended to visit the mausoleum of St.Jacob.
When I approached to the entrance of the underground mausoleum,people started to cut my line.One by one,they never stopped,which really pissed me off,for my wounds on feet and having been standing too long in line.I was loud in scolding the people who cut my line.I thought my anger also surprised myself,for I hadn't been a person who got angery easily.
I really need to work on that,to make some improvement in this issue.

Those people might feel threatened by me,or embarrassed by my action.They flinched away,and cleared a path for me.I took the advantage to enter,and there's no one following me then.

The chamber was small.A matress for praying was put in front of St.Jacob's gold-coated coffin.

I kneeled down on the matress also because my feet were so in pain,using it as a cushion.Not so pious I guessed.
In my own cultural customs,people of my home would usually pray to our Gods or dieties for almost anything,when we kneeled down to worship them.But I was so blank in my head,not thinking of anything at all.I thought I didnt really have a wish to make.Besides,I didn't have a solid reason to ask St.Jacob when worshipping HIM.I didnt' think it's appropriate to treat him like a wishing pond,which was so ridiculous to me.

Staring at His gold-coated coffin,I then made a wish after all.I wished everyone in the world would be living happily ever after.

I remembered I had wished almost the same thing when I was visiting the mausoleum of Jesus Christ in Jerusalem.

I was thinking the predicament that Jesus was facing before he was crucified,and which shouldn't have been used by all people as a wishing pond.

All people like to make a wish to get somthing from God or dieties,which might come from our customs in religions.Even Buddhism also grants people's wishes when worshipping.We,people,might just be used to this religious habit.
What I remembered is the coldness left on my finger tips after caressing the sarcophagus of Jesus Christ.

Out of my expectation that the chamber of St.Jacob wasn't large.Even the gold-coated coffin was small.The chamber wasn't decorated with complex emblems with Renaissance style,not even having exquisite carvings.The chamber was so plain and easy to see right at a glace.I thought this was good,for not having many things to distract prayers' mind.
I left the chamber in a few minutes and felt relieved to have completed a mission in today's itinerary.

 

LnS021-030-The Way1547.jpg

 

我走入廣場上的聖地牙哥天主教堂博物館,慢慢瀏覽以便減輕腳痛,上二樓在樓梯中時被叫住了,遇上了義大利的Rino和Elena,我真沒想到還會遇上他們夫婦,談起聖城主要彌撒活動,時間上我好像錯過了,我並沒有在意,因為我並不是天主教徒,而我人生中也已經拜訪過很多聖域,錯過的話,那就是和我沒有緣分,我沒有一定要強求。

My feet were still aching,but I didn't want to sit down yet.I kept on touring slowly and got back to the square where the Museum of Cathedral de Santiago was.I stepped onto the stairs that leading to the 2nd floor,then suddenly,I was called to halt by Rino and Elena from Italy.I was so surprised to meet them again,for I didnt' expect to see anyone with familiar faces any longer.
We talked the Mass activities in Santiago.I was advised that I might have missed certain vital rituals,etc.
I didnt mind that much,for I wasnt a pious Christian.Besides,I had visited many holy sites already.
If I missed the chance to take part in ,then it would have been simply not connected with me in my fate.I didn't need to force myself to be in every party.


 

LnS021-030-The Way1505.jpg

 

 

在互相相擁祝福道別後,我才開始難過起來,因為他們觸動了隱藏在我堅毅後面的情緒,似乎,似乎這一切即將結束。
緩慢地在博物館遊蕩,心不在焉地一間又一間展覽室走過去,腳傷讓我慢條斯理的移動著,聖城是這一階段的終點,好像這一個月以來的努力健走,到此就結束,走上樓到了屋頂,又到中庭,一樓又一樓,我又進入了另一間建築物,我早就漫無目的亂逛,忽然被工作人員擋住了,說裡面在辦活動怕我吵到別人,我完全不懂我為何會吵到別人這種說法,我向該人員保證不吵鬧後,竟然被放行!
進去後原來是在做彌撒,而且是近尾聲了,這時我竟然無意識的得以參加了著名的香爐擺盪的儀式。

We held each other and said our last goodbye.I then started to feel sad,for being intrigued emotionally that was hidden behind my perseverance.

It seemed that everything was coming to en end soon.
Slowly I made slow gaits loitering in museum,passing an exhibtion room and then another absent-mindly.My wounds in my feet dragged me.

Holy City was my final destination and made all my exertions starting from a month ago a full stop.
I went up to the upper floor,then entered into a courtyard,a building after another building,having no obvious goals.Someone out of nowhere halted me before a gate,saying there's a ceremony going on inside.She was afraid that I might disturb others.But I didn't agree with this excuse.

I then made a promise not to make any noise,and she released me and let me enter without further words.
I got in and found its the Mass that people were talking about,and it was proceeding to its end now.
I was so surprised to know that I got to join the furnace swaying ritual under no concrete arrangement.It was a miracle I thought.

 

LnS021-030-The Way1567.jpg

 

 

聖城當然值得一遊再遊,此地是各大教堂集中的地方,十世紀以來聖城的每一個轉彎、一個廣場,分分秒秒都是信仰的氣味,濃郁的劃不開,回到飯店,其他旅客大力推介下,我參加飯店到"天崖海角"-Muxia 和 Fisterra 的一日遊行程,照理說有些朝聖者會直接走去,但我既然任務算是完成,在腳傷情況下,就不想再用走的了。

It's worthy of recurring to visit Santiago,where all sorts of churches gathered since 10th century.

The religious motif was so dense and hard to split off in every corner,every square,and every moment.
Headed back to my hotel,on the reception counter,I was strongly recommended to a one-day tour of Muxia and Fisterrra by other hotel's customers.
Usually,pilgrims would go on foot directly after Santiago.But my feet were injured and I thought to myself having my mission completed.I'd rather go by comfortable way this time.
No more walking ,God,my poor legs.

 

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我靜靜地坐在飯店明亮的大廳沙發,窗外陽光灑落一地,愣愣地看著窗外人來人往的人群,過了良久,我站起來回房間整理行李,我想...該走了。

I sat quietly on the sofa in my hotel's bright and clean lobby.The sunlight spreaded into the lobby's ground ,reflecting in my eyes.
I kept being silent and sat like a stone,watching people out of the windows going to and fro.
After a long long time had passed,I stood up and got back to my room.
I got my things together.
I thought to myself,
it was time to leave...

 

LnS021-030-The Way1622.jpg

 

 

搭了巴士往車站去,Alsa是西班牙第一大品牌巴士公司,下段旅程葡萄牙波多,我必需先坐到Campanha再轉車去,而沿途反過來看的話,就是葡萄牙往聖城的另一朝聖路徑,

看著車窗外的景色,迴異於”法國之路”,心想,

也許,我會有回來的一天...

Alsa is the largest brandname bus company in Spain.I took a bus to the station and then transferred to Alsa bus.
I was leaving for Portugal.
I needed to go to Campanha first,and then took another train to Porto.
I watched the views out of bus window,knowing it's the Portugal way to Santiago,if I watched it reversely.
The views on Portugal way was so different from French Way's.
I was thinking ,perhaps,I might come back to try this route,some day...

 

LnS021-030-The Way1628.jpg

 

 

~  End  ~

 

請續上篇或是前篇文章

~ Continue to the next or previous articles~

1.朝聖者之路日記(一).

2.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (二)、Day 0 to Day 05.

3.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (三)、Day 06 to Day 10.

4.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記(四)、Day 11 to Day 15.

5.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (五)、Day 16 to Day 20.

6.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (六)、Day 21 to Day 25.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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