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土耳其棉堡之希拉波利斯
Hierapolis,Pamukkale,Turkey.

 

土耳其陸路交通最方便也最經濟的方式就是搭巴士,長途巴士品質良好,車上至少都有2位司機隨時可換手,不會有台灣"血汗司機"過勞的情形,由伊斯坦堡搭到Denizli後,再搭車(76號巴士)前往,車費很便宜,可是今年土耳其貨幣貶得很厲害,有沒有調整我就不知道了,也許這裡的土耳其臉書朋友可以再告訴我(Yunus現在一天到晚在忙選舉,哈哈,可能沒空陪我玩),上車再給司機錢買票就可以,然後司機就可以把你載到棉堡入口,回程是在山下,走出山下出口後,一直往村鎮的方向走下去,大抵只有一條路,一直走,碰到前面有房子擋住為止,然後站在路旁等回程巴士(沒有明顯站牌,問一下旁邊的民眾即可),巴士再把你載回Danizli市巴士總站,簡單吧。
The economic and most effecient way to travel in Turkey is by bus.The quality of Turkey's Buses are excellent in both service and hardwares.There are usually 2 drivers on board for changing hands in a long route.It wouldn't have accidents like in Taiwan's due to drivers who are overworked.

I took the bus from Istanbul to Denizli,then I got on the Bus number 76 to Pamukalle from there on.The fare was cheap.However,Turkish lila(currency unit) this year deppreciates quite heavily.Would there be any adjustment to the bus fares that I don't know.

Perhaps my Turkey friends in Face Book could give me an update.
You don't need to buy bus ticket beforehand.You can just buy from driver.The bus will drop you off at the front of the entrance of Pamukkale.The exit is in the downhill.Keep on walking to adjacent village,and go on walking till you can't go further.A row of houses will stop you go further.Then,it's where you wait for your bus to come to pick you up,and drive you back to Denizli's bus otogar.
It's very easy in arranging the transportation.

 

 

 

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我在茫茫一望無際的沙漠都等過巴士了,這種四周都是住家的環境等車,啊,小CASE啦。現在想起來跟土耳其還真有緣份,認識的人許多跟政治都有關係,喂,那個Mataph,沒事不要拿槍出來掃射嘿~lol.
I had waitted buses in a desert that seemed to be in the middle of nowhere,which made this bus waitting a piece of cake in an environment surrounded by houses in a regular community.

 

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除非是要直接住在棉堡近鄰的小鎮,以便多洗洗溫泉,不然一般都是在Denizli過夜,我建議是在Denizli住,也有Spa旅館,附近商家多,餐廳、逛街、補貨多有選擇,也很熱鬧,晚上比較好玩不會無聊。
I suggest to live in town of Denizli instead of spending the nights in Pamukkale,unless you want to wash in a hot spring all day long.Denizli has so many to offer,diverse stores,spa hotels,supermarkets and restaurants.It is more interesting and won't get you bored at night.

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到達後走到裡面買票,從北門進入,藍天白雲,豔陽下可遮蔭蔽日的地方不多,我是已經放棄防曬了,國人如果不怕難看,就把5百萬保險的那種陽傘給他拿出來,跟太陽拚了吧。
I went into and bought my ticket from North Gate.There wasn't much shades to ward off sun in blue ,clean sky.I had already given up using sunscreen.If you don't like it,then remember to carry the huge parasol with you to fight with the ferocity of sun.

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首先會經過墳場(Necropolis),兩旁墓地可追溯至4千多年前,尚不算在城內,巨大和笨重的巨石建成,我印象最深刻的是,格局做得像房子,而且古時盜墓就盛行,有錢人的墓門還刻有詛咒盜墓者的咒語,由於沿路兩旁盡是,漫步其間感覺很不真實。
First of all,visitors need to go by Necropolis that heads to the north gate.Tombs on the either side can be traced back 4000 years ago.The area of Necropolis is out of the town and all graves were built with heavy stones.I was impressed with their layouts as living houses.And the tomb raiders were prevailed.The rich were afraid of family's tombs being destroyed dued to looting.Thus,some of tombs carved with cursed inscription to warn those thievies.
It was a surreal scene while I was walking along the path,which accompanied with tombs on either side.

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再來重要的古蹟就是浴室(Baths Basilica)了,古時候進城前,要在城門之前的公共浴池把自己先洗乾淨,這在羅馬帝國時期各城鎮都是如此,龐貝城也是如此。
Not long,I reached the Baths Basilica.It was the customs to wash yourself before entering the gate in ancient time.All Roman towns or cities had the similar rule imposed upon visitors.Visitors needed to bathe themselves clean at the public bath house like this one-Baths Basilica.I found it as the same thing in Pompei.

 

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希拉波利斯古蹟裡面另一重點在於1、2公里長的噴水池街道(Frontinus Street),當然都已經傾壞,剩下古道排水系統,和路旁一點基座可以緬懷,這個城鎮古時非常發展,當然命運如同其他重點古蹟一樣,受到地震破壞後遭人棄置。
There are other touring points in the park.The Frontinus Street that stretches to 1 or 2 kms long,but it is dilapidated inevitably.The sewage system is what left through time,and a few colum bases on the road side.Hierapolis was quite developed once upon a time,and its fate like many of its Roman city peers,ruined and deserted dued to earthquakes.

 

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這裡的景觀非常漂亮,我漫無目的地踩踏在阿波羅神殿遺址的野草間,雖然一點都看不出來石堆有何重要了,但是園區還有另外2個重點可以玩,一是走上山坡上面的羅馬戲院,保留得非常好,也很壯觀,看樣子晚上或其他假日還有在舉辦活動,另一個是更上面的聖菲利浦烈士教堂,教堂還在開挖聖人埋骨地穴,再往上走,來到往四下觀看的居高好地點。
The picturesque landscape was so pretty.Even though I couldn't make up any importance from the piles of stones ,but still I roamed among the ruins and weeds at the Apollo Temple causally.
There were two more sites worthed to focus and visit.One is the Roman Theatre set on the upper slope of the hill.The theatre was kept nicely and it looked grand as well.It seemed to hold musical events, and the like, at night from time to time.The other site was the Martyrion of St.Philip.Some archaeological work was still going on for the remains of St.Philip's corpse.Keep going up,I came to the best spot for a panoramic observatory. 

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我沒有趕行程,所以待了滿久的,最後往白色岩鹽方向去,在休息中心有溫泉會館,也有博物館,全部給他玩完後,才往觀光照片中常見的一大片露天白色溫泉去,由上往下走,就會到山下另一個進出口,出去過馬路直穿過村鎮,就可以到巴士停靠的地方離開了。
I actually wasn't in a hurry.Thus,I spent quite a while staying here.In the end,I headed to the direction,where the white salt rocks was.I passed by a spa resort,and museums.After a brief visit to these buildings,I finally came to the other apex of the tour,which was the outdoors hot spring.The site that we usually saw from a tourist photoshots.All white it is from bottom to top of the hill.I kept going down until I reached the other exit at the bottom of the hill.I kept going straight and through the village.Not for long,I went to the roadside,where I met my bus and left afterwards.

 

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白色岩鹽出乎意料的非常堅硬,由於不可以穿鞋子走進去,但可以用手拿著,鹽床很堅硬,腳會痛,慢慢走是還好,這裡不少人會做日光浴,不過我想只穿比基尼,然後一堆觀光客在旁邊走來走去,我是覺得不太好,還不如買票去上面溫泉會館好好的洗洗泡泡,比較實在,水真的太乾淨了,我乾脆坐在溝旁,讓水沖刷我的腳,太陽很熱,白色鹽地又很反光,沒有防曬一定黑,但水流很涼,池水很溫暖,很爽。
It was out of my expectation that the white salt bed was very hard to step on.But the rule prohibits people entering with shoes on.However,I still got in with shoes on my hands.I felt stinky toughness coming from the hard salt bed.It was all right to walk on it ,just being slow.
A lot of people came to enjoy the hot spring in sun,but I thought it was awkward and odd to have tourists passing by you up and down,while you're wearing just a bikini,laying by the pools.It would be better to have a spa service up at the resort.
The water here was crystally clean.I sat by the ditch and took a brief rest,simply letting the spring water flush by my feet.Sun was fierce,the white salt bed was easily reflecting the sunlight,which even made sunscreens hard to protect my skin further.Nonetheless,the spring water is cold,the pool water was warm,and everything was so great in here.

 

 

 

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~End~

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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