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Love and Stamina,Day 0 to Day 5.

 

Day 0

        出發了...
    時間過得好快,我現在正式進入2018年旅遊的第2階段。

           I am off.
         Time goes fast,I am officially entering the 2nd stage of my journey in 2018.

 

 

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 聖讓皮耶徳波爾鎮的小小火車站
                                 

                    從波爾多搭高速火車出發,到巴約納,再轉城際火車,到首站聖讓-皮耶德波爾。                      
  From Bordeaux(TGV) to Bayonne(changed to intercity train) to St.Jean Pied de Port by train.

 

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看得出來許多與我同目的地的旅客也一起上車來,車上很擠,沒想到乘客這麼多,還好我有搶到座位,心裡正在高興,沒想到火車開不到半小時,忽然就停下來了,

在等待的時候,車上的服務人員用著不輪轉的英文,逐一車廂告知所有乘客,前方有一棵大樹倒了,壓在鐵軌上,

工程人員正在排除障礙中,然而等了1小時,眼見到聖讓皮耶德波爾鎮的預計到達時間,一直被迫往後延,還沒開始就有狀況,心理一直冒滴咕。

 

There were no doubts that many passengers on board had the same destination as mine.Before long,the train got crowded.I hadn't expected there were so many of them.So,when I got an available seat to myself,I felt joyful.But to my surprise,the train came to a full stop after a half of a hour's running.While all passengers were patiently waiting ,the attendant on board came to told us the bad news in a clumsy English,that there was a large tree fallen on the rail in the front.So,we all needed to wait until the condition was expelled.I had been waiting for a hour or so,knowing my arrival time was forced to delay further.I was nagging in mind on this bad beginning of my coming journey.

 

最後火車還是把我們都載回巴約納車站,重新調來巴士把我們轉送去,終究還是到了,跟著大家向著同一方向走,我訂的旅館剛好在古城正對面,我訂的太慢,已經沒有空床,

所以沒有住到城裡,但是我覺得也很好,因為這個古城太小了,加上我沒有認真每家店去看,逛完大概還用不到半小時。

 

However,the train company couldn't solve the problem soon enough, so the train decided to take us back to Bayonne Train Station ,and from there,the train company called in buses and transferred us to Saint Jean Pied de Port.

I followed other people to the direction of the old castle.

At last,here I was.

My hostel was right in the opposite to the gate of the castle.I didn't get to sleep inside the old castle,dued to my late booking.

There was no bed available when I wanted to make an accommodation reservation.

Nonetheless,I felt it was nice still.There's no need to sleep in the old castle,because it was really small.

It only took me a half of a hour to finish the tour,even though I didn't seriously take my time in appreciating each shop .

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但是預定的青年旅館中午要休息到2點,只好先去買本朝聖者護照,吃個飯再說,而天空卻開始下起雨來了...

However,my hostel didn't re-open until 2:00 pm.Before that,I couldn't settle down yet.Thus,I couldn't help but tackle other stuff first.I went to Tourism Center to buy my pilgrim's passport,and then went to find a restaurant for my lunch.

It, then ,started to rain...

 

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朝聖者護照在各庇護所或朝聖者辦公室都有賣,不見得一定要在城裡的朝聖者辦公室買的才是唯一,各地出售的護照圖樣各有不同,隨看個人喜好即可。

我的是在旅客中心買的。

There were many albergues or hostels selling pilgrim's passports with different types of patterns.It all depended on your needs or likes.It didn't really matter if the passport issued by SJPdP's Church office in the castle or not.

I'd got mine from Tourism Center.

 

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城裡的朝聖者辦公室,下面隔幾間就是行李快遞服務的店

 

牆內的古鎮是很小,還好旁邊有一座17世紀建的堡壘-Rue de la Citadelle,可以逛逛,之前在旅客中心的時候,我稍微問了一下狀況,裏頭的服務小姐卻說城堡已經變成女子學院,不對外開放,但是我還是趁著雨停去了,還好有去走走,可能是那位服務人員的英文沒有說好,使我誤會整區都不開放,實際上只有校區不對外開放,城堡四周還是可以參觀,往山丘上面走去,四周景致典雅小巧,登高遠望環顧新市鎮,心情著實大好。

The old town area was small,luckily,there's a castle,Rue de la Citadelle,built in 17th century for me to spend some time there.
When I was at the Tourism Center,I had asked the employees a little about the castle.Perhaps it's because they didn't deliver the information in English well,so that I had been confused by the information.They told me the castle had been turned into a female college and didn't opened to the public ever since...

However,I went to check after the rain stopped shortly.The condition was that the study area in the old castle didn't open to the public,but the camp of the castle basically was open to visitors.I felt so relaxed and happy then.The view along the route up to the hill was dainty and pretty,and the surroundings were nice too.The sight of the downhill's new town area was also great,when looking down from the hill,which made my mood so calm and easy.

 

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逛逛城堡,又逛逛有Nive河流經的歷史古鎮,美麗的景象讓我一時忘記下雨帶來的擔憂。明天是我法國之路的第一天,在這裡我過一夜就要走了,

我一大早就要出發,沒必要入住豪華飯店,必須在晚上10點前上床睡覺去。

問了明天走的方向,還被大家笑說我太有膽,說的也是,我隻身獨闖,也真的不清楚路線,現在想想也是很大膽,

不過,對此我沒甚麼意見,我不會有麻煩的,真不知路線,那就跟著大家走就好了。

I hanged around this beautiful little old town that River Nive flowing through for a while,which made me forget temporarily the worries that the rain might bring for tomorrow's hiking.

"Tomorrow will be the 1st day of my Saint James' Way". Thus,I only stayed in SJPdP for just one night.

No need to sleep at an expensive hotel,and I needed to go to bed before 10:00 pm,to gain some strength for tomorrow.

I asked the host of my hostel about the direction for tomorrow's hiking,that made people laugh at my bold action,for I came alone and I did have no idea about the route at all.

Yeah!,it's reckless,but I had no problem with that.

It'd all be fine.If I don't know the route,then I'd just follow others' foot steps.Easy.

 

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坐在我青年旅館前面餐廳的前院,感覺這裡的氣氛不像在法國,是啊,因為這裡是巴斯喀地區(與西班牙邊界),法國的邊境。我已經逛完這裡的古城和城堡,還真沒想到這個小小城鎮會吸引這麼多旅客,今天天上下了一些雨,氣溫也不高,還有些冷呢。

Sitting at the front yard of the restaurant adjacent to my albergue,I felt the atmosphere wasn't like being in France.
Sure,because here it is in the border to Spain,the Basque.
I  had already finished touring the castle and the town of St.Jean Pied de Port and I never had thought this little town would have attracted quite a lot of travelers.
Today,it rained a little,so the temperature was not high.Actually,It was a bit chill.

 

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Day 1

法國聖讓皮耶德波爾鎮-西班牙之門-前往奧雷亞加,26 公里。

Saint Jean Pied de Port,Ru D'espagne to Roncesvalles.
26 kms.

 

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本來計畫明日一早6、7點就出發,以儘量避開強烈的陽光,如果沒壞事發生,應該可以在下午2點前到達第一個停留休息站-奧雷亞加。

我以為這種旅遊活動勞心又勞力,應該不太有人會來,結果...客滿~真的好滿,滿到當天你如果想要入住,都有可能庇護所和青年旅館都滿了,

即使我是提前3天訂,都感到有些壓力呢!各國的人非常多,真的是非常國際化。

我想困難在於你不知道哪一天是否撐不下去,因為我是外國人,我沒辦法這樣賭,所以還是乖乖訂好,不然流落街頭就慘了。

I was planning to start earlier at around 6:00-7:00am,in order to avoid the strong sunlight as possible as I could.If nothing bad happens,

I should be able to reach my 1st stop,Roncesvalles by 2:00 pm.
 

This type of tours is usually physically challenged,and needed to prepare a lot of things before going.I had thought it wouldn't have too many people coming...and yet,it was fully booked ...

so crowded that there's no extra beds available.
I usually made my bed reservation on internet by 3 days ahead,even so,I still felt the pressure of not being able to have a bed to lie down.
People came from different countries.It was quite international.


I thought the difficulty was that I didn't know if my physical strength could be able to carry on in the following days.Should I make a previous booking or not?"
However I didn't dare to gamble on "bed booking",or I might have ended up in the street,and got nowhere to go,for I was a foreigner to this country.

 

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昨天下了一整晚的雨,一大早還有些毛毛雨,所幸過一會兒就停了,沒想到今天竟有個好天氣。
在路上跟著人走,果然就找到貝殼標誌,開始緩慢上山,走著走著出了滿身大汗,索性把雨衣脫了,大家也都互相砥礪,由於剛開始還是柏油路,不久變小碎石子路,到第一個休息點,點了啤酒和一點小菜,只覺得運動運動一下還真好,空氣還真是新鮮,沿途山路景色又優美,滿眼青翠山巒起伏,牛羊草坡漫步,一副世外桃源的景象,讓我精神非常之愉快,我的媽呀! 也太豪華了吧,渾然不覺得已經走了2小時多。

It had been rainning for the whole night yesterday,and it still drizzled a little in the early morning.Fortunately,the rain ceased to fall before long ,to my surprise.

Shortly,the seashell signs appeared in my sight,after I followed others to the mountain trails.It's time to go up.At first,the road was paved with asphalt,then turned into gravels,and then pebbles and small stones.I took off my raincoat after I started to perspiring some.People walked the same road would encourage each other,which was very nice.

I felt quite refreshed after exercising.The air,the pretty country sight,cows and goats grazing freely on the green meadows,what a wonderful world,Ahlleluja!The view looked luxury.Then,here came the first resting spot.I ordered a beer and a tapaz,then starting to appreciate the surroundings.I didn't even felt I had walked for nearly 2 hours.

 

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休息了一會,看著許多人離開餐廳,我也跟著再啟程走了,四周漂亮得不得了,不知道為什麼大家都說第一段是最難走的一段?道路也整理得滿好的呀?過沒多久,景色依舊美麗,只是我開始感覺為什麼都是上坡路?想起今天標準行程是要越過匹里牛斯山,那麼山頂應該快到了吧?都走好幾個小時了,那就...再加油一下,繞過一座山坡,往上,再繞過另一座山坡,再往上,都已經繞了9座山了,應該快到了吧?啊!!!還有!!!,看不到山頂!!腳快斷了說,再走吧,走太慢等下被人笑,不知過了多久,還一直往上?我吃驚了,真的假的?還好沿途都有人,景色也漂亮,只是感覺被操得很厲害,也懶得再想到底還有多遠才會越過匹里牛斯山,臉上依舊掛著笑容,只是僵掉了,忽然,山凹處吹起一陣風,帶上來山嵐白霧,整條道路,不,整個世界剎那間變成一片迷霧,我走進了雲裡...

After resting for a while,walking pals were leaving the resting post one by one.So,I re-started hiking also.It's said that the first day is the hardest.But I kept being confused and wondering about its truth by these pretty country sight,and  flat ground.I didn't so convinced at first.

After taking some time treaded on the way,I had started to notice why I was still walking up and up,though the mountainous veiws were still beautiful.Then it hit me that I needed to hike across Mt.Pyranees today.Well,I had been walking for so long,thought the summit shouldn't be far away from me now.I should push a little harder then.

I walked by a hill slope,went up,then another hill slope,and went up again.Jesus,it had been 9 hill slopes that I had walked by already.Why didn't I see the hill top?It shouldn't be that far,God,my legs were going to break.Whatever,I should push a little harder.I was afraid that people might laugh at me if I moved too slow.

I didn't how long it had passed,and I was still going up,which totally shocked me.What! really?

It soothed me a lot by those scenic views and many walking people as companions,though I felt I had exercised too much already.My smile had frozen and I didn't have the energy to calculate how long it would be left to take me there,to cross Mt.Pyranees.

Out of the blue,there's a strong wind blowing from down under,from valley below,which took a great mass of mist and fog upon the road.The road,no,the whole world suddenly became veiled by a think layer of mist.I,therefor,walked into the clouds...

 

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怎麼可能?!!怎麼走到雲裡了?可視範圍不到3、5公尺,只看到前方別人的屁股,太酷了!!!我有點夢幻感,分不清是在夢裡還是現實,走太累了我想,過了好久才走出雲霧中,而道路依舊蜿蜒在前方,看不到盡頭,也不知過了多久終於越過山頭,開始往下走了...
How? How could it be to walk into a cloud? I couldn't see things in front of me by 3 to 5 meters far.
All I could see was other people's asses,swinging left and right ,in front of my eyes.It was so surreal that I couldn't tell if I were in a dream or lived in a real world.I thought to myself that I might have walked too long to be sober.A long time had passed before I walked through the cloud.However,the long and winding road was still in the front.I couldn't see its end yet.

I didn't know how long had passed then.However,I finally passed the mountain top,and started to descend...

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我又開心了起來,往下走應該比較輕鬆了吧?沒想到,山坡更陡,碎石變尖銳,也更大小不一,枯枝斷樹四散,有時泥寧不堪,有時青苔滿布,又濕又滑得非常難走,膝蓋承受非常大的壓力,上坡若花很多時間,但下坡更陡,算不惶多讓,而且更加困難走,果然近午時分,大腿開始出現筋攣的疼痛,所幸進入了山林,午時的強烈陽光已經被茂密的樹林擋去大半,這算是不幸中的大幸。

I was happy and smiled again.I thought to myself.It should be easier to go down.
But,out of my expectation,the hillsides were steeper,rocks were sharper,the size of rocks was more uneven,and the broken tree branches were scattering everywhere.Some roads were muddy,or covered with mosses.The road was slippery,wet,and was hard to walk on,which lay great pressure on my knees.
The only good thing was that it came to the time into the woods,so the strong sunlight was mostly warded off by trees.

健走的人不少,碰面總要寒暄個幾句,也不知誰問我昨晚睡得好嗎?屁啦!吵死人了,也不知誰整晚一直打呼,真想用枕頭把他們悶死。
A lof of walking companions I had today.So,it's no strange to greet with each other when passing by.We would talk one or two sometimes.

I didn't remember who had asked me about my sleep last night.
"Shit",it was so noising.Someone kept snoring all night,which made me really wanna suffocate them with pillows.

 

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我的體力看來算是很不錯,雖然渾身濕透狼狽,最後一小段速度變慢,那是因為又酸又痛的緣故,我本身其實不覺得太累,不管如何,我最終還是穿出了山林,來到了第一個過夜地點-奧雷亞加聖母馬利亞之皇家學院,我成功了,我的第2個印章得來不易。
It seemed my physical strength performed quite good.I was soaked wet by my own sweats,untidy,and even I felt so sore and painful,and my walking speed slowed down in the last flight,I still felt energetic and not tired.
No matter what,I walked through the woods in the end,and went to my first albergue,The Real Collegiate of Santa Maria of Rancesvalles.
I made it.
My 2nd stamp.I earned it hard.

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太多人等著辦理入住手續,我有預訂也被拖到時間,等到辦好都已經要下午5點了,我還得洗澡、吃飯,檢查一下看看有那裡斷了。

這間學院歷史悠久,規模在這地區是最重要的一間,設備這幾年翻新,所以第一站我覺得住得算非常的舒服,可惜,也不知我怎麼了,竟然決定每天開始天沒亮就出發,可能我發現今天走了7小時,所以如果早一點出門,就可以早一點休息。


Too many people were waitting in lines for checking in,I was stalled off too,even I had reservation.It's nearly 5 pm when I finally checked in.And I still had trivia left to do,like taking a shower,having my meal,and checking if there's anything broken on me,lol.


The college has a long history,its scale is the largest,and is the most important school in this area.Its facilities had been revamped also.
I felt very comfortable when I stayed here.
Nonetheless,I didn't know what's got to me,that I had decided to set off in a very early morning for each day's itinerary.I probably got the impression from the Day 1's hiking,which took me nearly 7 hours.So,I thought to myself,if I started early,I could have rested early too.

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來之前,心理一直很緊張,怕會失眠、便秘、或水土不服等等鳥事會發生,結果現在好像是混得很熟一樣,與每個人都會聊天,交交朋友,也早早就睡覺去,朝聖的生活竟變得如此單純和簡單。
Before I came,I was very nervous,worrying this and that.I wondered if I would have insomnia,or constipation,or a bad diet,etc.,all the jazz.But it appeared that I hanged so well with everybody and everything.I chatted with others naturally,made friends as things went,and hit the bed early.I didn't know that the life on the Way became so simple and pure,having no catches at all.

 

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Day 2

奧雷亞加-蘇維里

Roncesvalles to Zubiri
21.5 kms.

 

經過一夜的休息,雖然腳還很酸痛,但我一大早就啟程(約6點25分離開),天都還沒亮,一片黑壓壓的,走前稍微看了一下資料,原來我還不算離開了匹里牛斯山脈,雖然已經不是那麼多崎嶇的山路,但是怎麼辦?我沒有自己一個人在森林裡摸黑前進過,硬著頭皮,看準了方向和貝殼標誌,走進了黑暗的森林...

I set off in the early morning next day,at about 6:25am.I still felt the pain and soreness in my feet from the previous day's long walk.I'd checked my information a little to know that I was still in the mountainous area of Mt.Pyranees,even though the road ahead of today's would be much flatter,less steeper,and shorter.
However,it was so pitch-dark around me,and the dawn didn't show any light,either.

I was kind of being intimidated by the darkness,but didn't know what else could be done to lift my apprehension.

At last,I summoned some courage and spirit,made sure the direction that the seashell indicating,heading into the dark woods with determination.
 

太暗了,我只好使用手機的手電筒功能,前方別人的燈光逐漸遠離,後面別人的燈光也忽明忽滅,靜靜悄悄中伴隨著林中蛙鳴和其他不知名動物的唏嗦聲,

就這樣走了有1小時。潮濕的地面是昨夜降雨的關係,卻帶來清新的空氣,沒想到朝聖的路有這麼多不同的變化,就算一個人走,每天也不會無聊。

It's so dark that I needed to activate the flashlight function of my mobile.Others' light was gradually fading off in the far front,and the light in my back from some others' was occasionally twinkling off and on.Everything was so quiet,except the frogcroaks and intermittently rattling sound from unknown animals.Under the circumstance,I'd been walking for a hour in the woods.

Last night's rain soaked the ground,but refreshed air.I didn't expect the road would have so many conditions and changes to deal with,which certainly offered an unboring experience,even for one to walk alone.

 

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天色漸明,四周由黑暗轉而深綠,還以為在電影阿凡達的場景,再過一會走出了森林,認了一下方位,來到了一間山腳旁的咖啡店,

西班牙的咖啡店每家都很不錯,也常常都一個人顧全店,要煮咖啡,還要同時招呼客人,很忙。

Sky was brightening up slightly,and the color of my surroundings was turning to deep green.It looked pretty much like being in the movie set of "Avatar".Before long,

I went through the woods.I quickly differentiated the direction.I soon reached to a cafe shop by the road.
Cafe shops in Spain were usually busy,and taken care by one employee or host only.They needed to brew coffee and at the same time took customers' orders.You'll get the idea.

Nonetheless,the quality of their shop was really good.

 

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這裡是精美的小社區,可惜拐個彎,又往山路去了,朝聖之路沒有在跟你客氣的,都儘量檢石頭路來走,中午來到一間許多人有停下來休息的餐廳,這幾天運動過度,其實我都吃不下,但是為了保持體力,我還是點一些吃,流了很多汗,現在喝起啤酒都是叫大杯的來。

The little community in the downhill from Roncesvalles was very dainty.It's too bad I couldn't linger a little bit more,after a turn to the side,I was heading into the mountain road again.The Way shows philgrims all the authentic trails as best as it could.It means all roads were rocky,rigid,uneven,and full of small and big stones.
I came to a restaurant where many also stopped for a short break.I couldn't eat much due to my over exercise these few days.In order to keep my strength in check ,I still had eaten little.

But I drank a lot of beer,for making up my perspiration on road.Now my order for beer always came with "grande".

 

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午後,來到今晚休息處,小鎮好小,但是很美,有一條石砌小橋成聯外通道,已經有人跑到橋下玩水去了,又碰到安娜和法蘭切斯,法蘭切斯的腳起水泡,我還沒有,

但是以前我在耶路薩冷也有過,知道刺破很痛,不弄破走起路也痛,所以討論結果還是要法蘭切斯弄破水泡,再敷上我的藥和貼布,這樣比較快好,

安娜他們這次只計畫走一星期,歐洲青年在生活上是很有想法的。

In the afternoon,I came to my hostel in Zubiri.
Zubiri is a very small town,but pretty.There's an old stone bridge connecting the other way where I came from.
When I arrived,there were people already frolicking in the stream under the bridge.
I met Anna and Francisco again,knowing there were blisters on Francisco's feet.I had this kind of experience when in Jerusalem.I knew they were painful without doing anything to them.Though it was still painful after poking the blisters,but at least,the feet would be much better after.After a brief discussion,Francisco decided to break the blisters.

So I went to fetch my oinment and o.k.bands for him.
Anna and Francisco planned to walk the way for one week only this time.
In my opinion,European youngsters usually have their own thoughts in life.

 

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回旅館後,才發現我旁邊的床是一對情侶?晚上男的摸黑回女的床上共枕,他們租2張床,卻只用1張,哈,還好他們沒有太過分動來動去,不然我們那間晚上可就太熱鬧了。

I went back to my hostel when the night fell deeper.Then I'd got to learn there was a couple on the bed next to mine.They rented 2 beds,but slept together on one bed only.Well,luckily they didn't make any big movement during sleeping time,or our dormitory would be very hustled and bustled then.

 

 

Day 3

蘇維里-潘普洛納

Zubiri to Pamplona,20.3 kms

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清晨天微亮就走了,告別漂亮的Zubiri小小鎮,經過了郊區工廠,之後又彎向山區去了,中途經過小溪旁的餐廳,在優美的溪畔吃點東西,休憩了一會,心情雖然美好,還是走了吧,今天要往大城市潘普洛納去,是以舉辦奔牛節聞名的城市,雖然現在不是7月,但心想應該也是很不錯玩,早一點去可以早一點逛逛,

後來到了一座看起來像是公園的地方,上了廁所,找了一下貝殼指標,猛抬頭一看,

我的媽呀,前面陡峭的山壁就是等一下要爬過去的路,第一天的上升坡道還在我心裡留下一道陰影,還沒消散,現在就又要爬坡。

I set off when sky was still dimming,farewelled to this pretty little town.
I went by suburban factories,then passed a turn towards the mountainous area.

I came to a restaurant that was situated by a stream.I ordered some food and dined by the beautiful little mountainous stream,took a break briefly.

Even though my mood was light,I thought to myself it's better not to stay too long in the middle of the route before reaching today's final destination,Pamplona.
Pamplona is famous for the festival of bull stampede.I thought it wouldn't be bad to tour around the city,either, even it's not in july.If I arrived earlier,I could have more time to city tour.

Then,here came I to a place looked like a park.I went to toilet,looked for the seashell marks,and then raised my head to the direction that the seashells indicated,

I suddenly realized that I had a very high precipice in front of me.

Actually,it wasn't a precipice.It was a very steep slope that I needed to go over it to the other side.Jezz~,I was intimidated by the steep road before me, when the shadow of exhausting hiking on the first day was still on my mind,not yet dissipated fully.

 

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心想不知要爬多久,早去早超生吧,結果倒是出乎我意料之外,不用1小時就走過。路經入口有橋的美麗中世紀小鎮,已經沒有心情進去玩了,西班牙的景點其實很多都是小小的,所以我在對岸就已經大概也整個鎮看完了。

With the thought of getting it over as soon as possible,though I had no idea how long it would take to cross over.
To my surprise,it only took me less than 1 hour to get to the other side.
Before long,I came to the beautiful little town connected with a medieval stone bridge across the river.

But I didn't go across the bridge to tour that little town,for I was feeling tired already.
I'd found that many touristic sites in Spain tended to be small in size.


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走著走著,好累、好重,今天背包並沒有託運,感覺好沉,都早過中午了,終於來到了潘普洛納市的外圍公園,但是我必需到古城區去,這個公園好大,我還迷路,趕快問一下路人,果然走錯成相反方向去了,還好沒有走太遠,過一會,又找不到貝殼標誌,趕快再問人,我不會西班牙語,問到一對老夫婦,阿婆好熱心,

一直用西班牙語跟我說要怎樣,怎樣的,其實我只要一個方向就可以,不需要講太細,

可是西班牙人是這樣的,一開口就沒完,救命啊~我沒有要聊天,好嗎?不要再說了,我聽不懂,總算逃開了,腳痛死了,我現在只想趕快進入庇護所休息。

Walked on,I was getting fatigue and feeling the weight of my backpack getting heavy.It had passed noon time.
At last,I came to the park that was outskirted of Pamplona city.But I wasn't yet inside of Pamplona,I needed to get to its old town area.

Walked on,Jesus,the park was huge,and I seemed to get lost.I quickly went to ask people about the direction.

Yeah,it turned out I went to the opposite direction,but luckily I didn't go too far away.

There was a while I couldn't find the seashell marks.So,I went to ask people again about the direction.However,there was an old couple walking in the park.The old lady was so passionate in giving me the exact route to the old town.She kept telling me in extreme details.

To me,the information she was trying to give was in vain to me,for I couldn't speak Spanish.All I needed was a roughly direction.
But,as you know,Spanishes are like this.As soon as they start talking,it will never end.
"All right,all right,I've got it,gracias,gracias,gracias."
I didn't understand a word at all,and felt so fidgeting.I finally escaped from her sticking passion,and my feet were killing me.All I wanted now was to get into my albergue as soon as possible.

 

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穿出公園,終於來到潘普洛納市,過古橋後,古城區還在前面山坡上面,但是周遭景物已經變成有紅綠燈的都市景象了,城牆外有群青少年在玩,跟公園連成一氣的氛圍,但是我太累了,很狼狽地慢慢走入城門,明天路程更遠,我一定要用託運的,快沒命了,進城後我還得找我訂的青年旅館,

正想不知還要多久,沒想到就在前面不到200公尺的地方,終於鬆了一口氣。

Went through the park,I came to Pamplona at last.I went over the elegant stone bridge,that looked so epic.

The gate of the old town was still up there,but the surroundings had became a sight with traffic lights in a modern city.
A group of teenagers were playing outside of the castle wall,which was adjacent to the park.My knees were still aching that I had to strugglinly walk by them slowly.
I told to myself that tomorrow's distance would be longer,I needed to use the courier,or I would end up being killed.
After entering the gate,I still needed to find my algergue and I didn't know how long it would take.
While I was still thinking and trying to make out a direction,my albergue popped out to my eyes.
It was just right in front of me,less than 200 meters.

I was relaxed at last.

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我訂的是膠囊旅館那種,一間一間的,入住後,店主熱情接待和介紹,已經累到我的腳幾乎沒辦法移動,還會不自主微微發抖,整理和休息一下下後,

沒想到我又有精神了,當然就趕快跑到外面逛街去了。

I had booked a bed at a capsule hostel.The beds were separated by every single cubical.The host was passionate in welcoming my arrival,and jumped directly into introduction of his hostel.
I was so tired not able to move any muscle,and I was shaking unconsciously dued to my fatigue.
I quickly sorted out my personal belongings,took a shower, and a brief rest.
To my surprise,I regained my strength thereafter.
Oh,yeah,I certainly needed to use my time well.So,I started my city tour right away.

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進城前,我一點想法都沒有,我知道上個月奔牛節才剛過,沒想到,這裡早被酒吧文化淹沒了。,潘普洛納是一座被嘻皮佔領的中世紀古城。

I had no idea before dragging my tired body into this castle.
My God~,I knew the Saint Fermin festival(Bull Stampede) was passed last month.But I didn't know Pamplona is a "city" that the bars overwhelmed everywhere.

Pamplona,a medieval city that is invaded by hippies.

 

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滿街都是令我不敢想像的各式各樣造型的外來人(算遊客吧!),而且到處充滿多樣街頭藝術,我都要叫出來了,

因為太興奮了,這裡一踏上街頭,自由奔放的氣息馬上迎面撲來,無法閃躲。

我的天喔~我的腳還是蠻痛的,但是擋不住一探究竟的精神,四處亂晃,潘普洛納果然名不虛傳,一座等同“節慶”的城市,

在法國之路中,為經過最大的城市,我在這裡點了生平第一道正宗西班牙燴飯,

嗯...鹹死人了...媽的...

People dressed with all kinds of styles that filled with the streets.(these hippies can be also counted as tourists.)
And the streets were abundant with arts designs.I was so excited that I almost screamed,because the atmosphere of freedom unconstrainedly rushing over me from the front.

No,there's no way I could dodge away from this....
God~my feet are still aching,but I couldn't halt my curiosity.So I'd decided to take the adventage of available time I had to explore this city.
Pamplona has a nickname of "The City of Festivities",and is the biggest one on the Way to Santiago.
Here I had my first original paella,the famous Spanish dish,and it tasted so...salty,God,really ?!!

 

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Day 4

潘普洛納-蓬特拉雷納
Pamplona to Puente la Reina
24 kms

 

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雖然身體很不願意離開床舖,還是得每天一大早出門,今天天更黑了,因為下起雨來了,我等了一下,等雨小一點才出門,白天就好像黑夜一般,走過市區,又走過公園,還是順著阿爾加河過去,在雨中足足走了一小時,才盼到雨終於停了。

轉眼間,我已來到郊區,天色漸亮,我又往山路去了,

兩旁景色卻是愈來愈壯麗遼闊,秋收後的稻田似乎一望無際,蔚藍天空為幕,金黃稻田為席,美成這樣,都忘記腳還是在隱隱作痛了。

I remianed setting off early today,even though my body really loved to stay on bed.
It was raining,which made this morning even darker.I'd waitted for a while until it dwindled a little,before going out of the door.Walking on the street,I couldn't tell it's in the daytime or at night.I passed over the park,kept following the River Arga.I had been walking over an hour in the rain before it finally stopped.
Leaving Pamplona,I came to the suburban area when sky turned brighter,and then,I walked towards mountains again.The scenic views of my both sides turned even greater and wider.The crops fields seemed far and unbounded.Blue canopy was sky and golden rice fields were my carpets.The view now was so picturesque that I forgot the existence of my aching feet .


 

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前三天似乎每天都只有20多公里,好像是要讓我的腳慢慢適應漫漫長路,這樣的安排是順理成章的,因為我們的身體會隨著環境,跟著慢慢自行調整,還沒來前,我根本就不敢奢望,我可以每天這樣地走,查了一下下今天的路線,等一下要忍著艱苦,強攻今日的主要景點,"寬恕之丘"。

It was about 20 kms more per day in the past 3 days,which seemed to let my feet get used to the road condition.I had never thought that I could have walked this far before I actually came here.
The arrangement of itineray is logical,for our physical bodys would adjust according to the changes in our environment.

Looked up today's route,I'd found needing to cross "The Alto de Perdon",(Hill of Pardon) later.

 

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遠方風力發電機的巨大風扇在山頭一列排開,景象很是壯觀,可是眼前還看不到什麼小山丘,那就一定是要越過遠方那邊的風力發電機的地方了,哈,真是有夠遠的,當我走到山腳往上時,心情是興奮的,終於來到這個地標,好多人都暫時停留下來休息,登高往遠四周美景,有電視台也在錄影,現場也有教會當場蓋章給大家做紀念,我也趕快拿出我的朝聖者護照跟著排隊。

The giant wind turbines were aligning in the far top of the mountain,which looked imposing.But I hadn't yet seen any higher ground.

So it meant the Hill of Forgiveness must be further and beyong those wind turbines.Ha,God,it's really far away.
I started to get excited when finally reached to the foot of the hill.Here I was,along with a bunch of people.We all stayed for a break,and appreciated the beautiful views around us.

There was a TV car filming and a church related group giving stamps away as souvenirs.I quickly took out my pilgrim passport and joined in the line.

 

 

既然來到"寬恕之丘",是否意味我的生平罪惡都被赦免了? 那我明天不就可以重新再累積新的罪惡了?哈哈。

Since I had pushed into the Alto de Perdon.Did that mean all my sins are pardoned?
And tomorrow I could re-start making new sins?haha.

 

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休息一陣子,我想我還是快走吧,早一點到庇護所,可以早一點休息。
當我終於到蓬特拉雷納鎮,拿著手機的導航,我的青年旅館就是還沒到,該鎮只有一條主要街道,筆直長長地一直到阿爾加河邊,我大概又走了快2公里,終於來到河邊大橋,但是即使很累,我還是被這條氣勢雄偉的中世紀大橋給吸引住了,反正我的庇護所在河的對岸,我等一下若要吃東西,還是得回來這裡,過河、過馬路,有爬上坡,終於入住。

After resting for a while,I thought I'd better go,for the sooner I arrived at the alberque,the sooner I could take a rest,too.
I finally reached to Puente la Reina,holding my mobile with GPS function opened,the albergue had no where to find yet.
There was only one direct road straight to the bank of River Arga in town.It took me about another 2 kms to the bridge that crossed the river.The bridge was grand,even I was tired and yet I was attracted to it uncontrollably.My albergue was in the opposite of the river.So,I still needed to come back here to the bridge if I wanted to eat something in town later.
Thus,I went straight to cross over the bridge,the road after it,and hiked up again the long slope after the road,and then finally checked in.

 

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出門去的路上,看到後面慢慢跟上來的人,我給於加油打氣外,心裡不免偷笑,因為我們的這間庇護所很遠,等於是貫穿蓬特拉雷納鎮,不算真的住在鎮里頭,往好處想,明天可以少走2公里路。
大橋好漂亮,小鎮也很漂亮,雖然西班牙中世紀村鎮都小小的,但是都非常有味道。

After putting down my backpack,I went out of door to tour this little town.I bumped into other walking pals,who arrived late.
I encouraged them with a grin,for I knew the only available hostel was very far from town.I literally went through the whole town to get to it.So,it actually wasn't in town.But looking at the bright side,we had all saved 2 kms from tomorrow's walking.

The bridge was very beautiful,and the town was also pretty.Spanish villages and towns are not usually large,but they are all very pretty and elegant.

 

 

 

Day 5

蓬特拉雷納-埃斯特利亞
Puente la Reinato Estella
23 kms

 

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一天最喜歡的時光就是清晨太陽還沒出來時分,走在羅馬時代所建的跨河長橋,昏暗中有著浪漫的情境(如果腿沒那麼痛的話)。
 
My favorite time in a day was in dawn,which sun hadn't come out.I loved the quiet moment and solitude feeling in the twilight.

It was very romantic to walk over the bridge that was built in Roman times at this time (if my feet were not aching).

當然,我又在清晨就出發了,四周景色漸漸改變成低海拔的橄欖樹田,有更多已經收割後,剩下光禿禿的金黃短稻梗。
真是太美了,每當遠遠看見一望無際的大地,遠處聳立著一個城鎮或村落時,整個景色完全不同於台灣,也更感覺典雅和感動,

因為知道快可以歇息了,只是每次遠遠望見,其實都還很遠,超遠的。

I set off again,of cause,in early morning.The landscape had changed to lower altitudes now.More fields of olive trees and yellow,harvested,barren rice fields could be seen.
It was absolutely beautiful I exclaimed.The landscape was totally alien to a person like me come from a very far country,Taiwan.I felt so touched every time when I saw a village or town standing far on a plain with no obstacles to hinder my sight.The motif of the view was so elegant and grand.

 

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我的左膝蓋又重新疼痛起來,而同時,本周也接近尾聲了...
遠方不遠處,Estella漸漸近了~

The left knee is burning again.
At the time being,it was drawing near the end of the week.
In not very far end,Estella was getting closer....

 

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埃斯特利亞是比上一個鎮還大的城市,可以有足夠的補給採買,但是我到達的時候,很多知名和美麗的教堂在中午時段都關起門來休息。
西班牙的中午時分很炎熱,日曬很嚴重,難怪西班牙需要午休。

Estella is a bigger city than Puente la Reina.It has everything to offer.
But the time I arrived,its famous and beautiful churches were closed for noon time.
At noon time,sun is usually fierce.No wonder needs siesta in Spain.

 

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請續下篇

~ Continue to the next or previous articles~

1.朝聖者之路日記(一).

 

 3.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (三、Day 06 to Day 10.)

4.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記(四)、Day 11 to Day 15.

5.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記(五)、Day 16 to Day 20.

6.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (六)、Day 21 to Day 25.

7.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (七)、Day 26 to Day 30.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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