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Day 6

埃斯特拉-濱河托雷斯
Estella to Torres del Rio
29 kms
.

 

在埃斯特拉的庇護所裏頭,正為明天訂不到床位而煩惱,央求櫃台幫我打電話訂看看,結果真的沒床可躺,唯一辦法就是往下一個村莊去,沒想到也客滿了,只有遠在約30公里的小小濱河托雷斯才有床位,櫃台算了距離給我知道,我卻忍不住裝可愛慘叫出來,

啊~想起今日20kms路程走的很辛苦,那30公里我還怎麼走?!!結果都在給我笑,安慰我說不會很遠啦。
原來第一禮拜末,即使朝聖者不願意,修練的路程都會開始升級,終於出現第一次的30公里。


I was very apprehensive walking to and fro at my hostel's lobby, for not fixing my tomorrow's bed booking.I asked the counter to make a call for me.

It came with a bad news that I needed to go further to the next village to get one.It's all fully booked.

The counter let me know the distance,from Estella to Torres del Rio was about 30 kms.

I exclaimed immediately which trigerred their laughters.Goodness,I was so worry that I wouldn't be able to make it,because I had had a hard time in today's 20 kms already.

The counter gave me consolation by claiming that 30 kms wasn't that far,etc.All the bullshitting stuff.

It neared the end of the first week,I thought,no matter what,the Way was designed to gradually elevate the mortification higher for pilgrims.

Now,I had my first 30 kms in a day.

 

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理論上,在古代這一階段的路程本來就非常長,後來的人把它分成2段,所以即使我明晚可以睡在20公里之外的洛薩爾科斯,後天還是要走個30多公里到洛格羅尼奧,所以明天先走完30公里,後天就可以輕鬆過活了,就看要先苦後甘,還是先甘後苦了。
當然,如果不想趕行程的,可以自行決定下一個停宿點的遠近,不用在一個月內走完全程。

Theoretically,it is considered a long road even in ancient time.People are used to dividing it into 2 parts.
Thus,even if I could sleep over in Los Arcos that was 20 kms away tomorrow,I would have a 30 kms ahead waiting for me the day after tomorrow.

But If I go to walk 30 kms tomorrow,I then would have a shorter distance of 20 kms after tomorrow.
It was a matter of choosing shorter distance first ,or a longer one.

And of course,if time wasn't an issue,pilgrims could choose any village or town along the Way to stay.

It's not necessary to finish the whole way in a month as schedule suggested.

 

睡了一晚,一大早,咬著牙趕緊啟程了,早晨天色昏暗中,來到了相傳的葡萄酒之泉,兩個水龍頭,一個出水,一個出葡萄美酒,啊~~不用錢!!!馬上把礦泉水瓶喝光,再裝滿一整瓶,哈哈哈哈哈哈,至少累死前先喝醉,後面那個韓國阿祖嬤,一直催說好了、好了、夠了,裝多少干妳屁事,妳還不是想喝免錢的。
上帝恩賜的美酒是一定給它喝到飽的,不然會遭天譴。哈哈哈。

In the early morning,I crunched my teeth and then set off.I reached to the legendary spot,where offered red wine for free.
There were two taps,one was for wine,the other was water.It was made under the philanthropic heart to pilgrims,who had walked a long and winding road.
I took out my empty bottle and filled it up,so happy,hahaha.I'd rather get drunk before laboring my feet to death.
The old Korean lady behind me kept pushing me,"hurry,hurry,enough,enough".It's none of your business if I wanted to have a whole bottle of just a glass.

She simpily just wanted to have her share with impatient temper,that I didn't care at all.

It's bestowed by God,and I would love to drink it off with every bit of its drops,or it would be a waste,and that would sermon a dame.

 

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今天近30公里遠,想說昨天腳痛的要命,今天不曉得要走到何年何日,結果今天出乎意料的順利,竟然下午2點不到,就入住了。

Today,it was about 30 kms.
I had no idea when I would finish today's itinerary.To my surprise,I checked in my albergue by 2 pm.It was a smooth process.

 

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濱河托雷斯好小,雖然距離前一村不到1公里,但是小到不用10分鐘就玩完了,也好,我腳的狀況也沒有比昨天好多少,又遇上安娜和法蘭西斯,就一起吃飯去,他們明後天就要結束旅程回家了,我就請他們吃上一餐,算是提早餞別,飯局上,我又認識新朋友,米歇爾、安卓、和Lito、Elena夫婦,我過了一個愉快的晚餐,大家也就提早休息去了。

經過這些天,我開始有漂流的感覺了,朝聖之路帶給人們有非常不同的感受。

Torres del Rio was very small.Only is there one kilometer from its neighbor village.It merely took me less than 10 minutes to finish the tour.
My feet seemed not to be better off than yesterday's condition.

I met Ana and Francisco again.So we went to dinner together.Tomorrow they were going to finish their journey.Thus,tonight,it was also the last night we got together.

The dinner became our farewell meal.
I made new friends over the dinner,Miguel,Andrew,Lito and Elena a couple of husband and wife.It was a pleasant dinner,very lovely.

After that,we parted,bid our good night,and went to our own beds respectively.

I started feeling drifting on my journey now.A feeling that I had never had before,because I'd always anchored in my safe harbor.

Camino de Santiago brought people with different sensation and experience.

 

 

Day 7

濱河托雷斯-洛格羅尼奧
Torres del Rio to Logroño
20 kms
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馬路如同巨龍身軀長長地劃過鄉間平野,蜿沿在秋收的作物田園之間,清晨時分,趕抵到下一個村落,穿過村莊,又往山坡上去,路中碰到有人在林間路旁以石塊,堆積佛塔,如同小型佛林,驚訝之餘,感概宗教力量於人的影響之大,不受時空的限制。

The road was winding off like a dragon's body that went through the country plains hill by hill,making turns among harvested fields as a closure to the fall.
In the dim light of early morning,I rushed to the next village.I went by it and headed to another hill.On the way to pass the woods,there was someone who made buddhist pagodas with stones and rocks by the road.I was surprised to see this though and felt the power of faith.Religious faith is beyong the constraint of time and space.

 

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穿過樹林,公路開始伴隨,沒多久,遠方的洛格羅尼奧市已然展開,經過郊區工廠和外圍公園後,再走過跨河大橋,終於可以開始尋找我的過夜旅館,今天距離不長,

而且洛市也沒那麼小,該是個休息後,可以溜答的好地方。

I passed through the woods to have asphalted road accompanying by my side.Before long,Logrono could be seen in sight,spreaded widely in the front.I started walking slowly through suburban factories,the outskirt park ,and across the bridge.As last,I now could fine my albergue for tonight.Today's distance was not long,and Logrono wasn't a city that's small.

It was a good place for touring fun after a brief break.


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由於城市開拓開來,古城區所占面積就變得不大,只佔整個城市約1/12,最重要的精神中心是聖母瑪莉亞大教堂。
我入住整理梳洗後,就到外面閒逛,遇上幾個韓國團成員,正找不到她們訂的庇護所,幫她們看了地圖才知道,

好遠啊,在另一區呢,我覺得選庇護所也滿重要的,近一點可以早一點休息。

Logrono is a city that has been sprawling wide,which makes the old town area get to occupy only 1/12 of the whole city's.
The Cathedral of Saint Maria is the most centered and important building in old town.
I bumped into 2 members of a Korean touring group,who were lost and couldn't fine their albergue.I looked into the map to find out their albergue was located in a far side of the city.
So,if they wanted to rest sooner,they should have booked an albergue nearer.

 

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跑到後面一條大道去找吃的,洛格羅尼奧是比較方便,餐廳很多,這裡的西班牙小吃餐點真是好吃,我最喜歡有三文魚的披薩,超好吃。
今晚不多寫了,我需要時間休息,腳還一直抖動,所以晚安了。

I went to fine something to eat at the avenue behind my albergue's.The restaurants here were plenty,which saying Logrono is a convenient city for adding up supplies.
The dishes here were dilicious.The pizza with salmon was my favourite,which tasted more than great.
Tonight,I was not going to write too much,for I needed time to rest.My feet were still shacking uncontrollably.
So,night night,folks.

 

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Day 8

洛格羅尼奧-納赫拉
Logrono to Najera
29 kms

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新的道路,新的風景,朝聖之旅進入了第二周,心境上對每天的路途,開始有了習慣,耐力和耐心都增強了,修練進入第二層。
New roads,new scenery.The Way had entered the 2nd week.The state of my mind started getting used to new changes and the hardships of daily walking.
My physical endurance and patience all had improved.Apparently,my penance had upgraded to higher level.

葡萄果園沿著路,滿坑滿谷佈滿,葡萄串又黑、又紫、又藍,看得我流口水...
The vineyards went along the roadside spreading all over the valleys,and hills.The Strings of grapes,blue,purple,and black,looked so fresh making me drooling...

 

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今天滿遠的,沒想到安排走很多柏油路面,也許是第一周被操得差不多,第二周上帝開始良心發現,給我走得比較順。

途經一間教區教堂,聖母道成教堂,裡面比一般郊區教堂還更氣派,讓我感到很意外,進去走走逛了一下教堂收藏精品,正面聖壇的精美聖像閃耀著金光,

郊區這麼大的教堂,感覺很夢幻靜謐,捷克來的露西,以後退行單膝跪禮出去,我卻感到她的虔誠安詳。


Today's distance was very long too.However,I didn't expect I had got to walk on a lot of asphalt roads(more easy to walk on).

Perhaps,it's because the 1st week was very hard for pilgrims.The 2nd week,God started to have mercy on me.

On the way to today's destination,I had passed by a delicate parish church,The Church of our Lady of Assumption.It was a grand church,didn't look like a local small one,and its inner decos were full of exquisite statues and exhibition objects.Its main altar was equipped with shining golden carvings.My friend,Lucy,from Czech Republic,withdrew back to the exit doors.She gave me a peaceful devotion added to the motif,and exited with one knee kneeled and a hand gesture of crossing in front of her breast,which made me feel so surreal and quiet.

 

 

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納赫拉有間非常厲害的修道院,中文很難翻,大約是"聖母馬利亞於赫納拉之真身"修道院,西班牙神像雕塑的精緻程度,

不輸我在匈牙利國會大廈看到的,各有千秋,但西班牙神像的神韻,真是厲害。

Najera had a magnficent and top notched monastery.It's difficult for me to translate it to Chinese.Its orginal name,"Saint Maria in real de Najera".
Anyway,the level of delicacy of these statues was not lower than those I'd seen at the Congress Palace in Hungary.And the facial expression was more dainty and subtle.

They were from very good hands.

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Day 9

納赫拉-聖多明各-德拉卡爾薩達
Najera to Santo Domingo De la Calzada
22.7 kms

 

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一山又一山、橋樑、小溪、河流、葡萄園、樹林、和城鎮,全都在往聖地牙哥的路徑上,每個事物在我眼裡都是如此龐大,也只有朝聖者之路可以將它們連繫起來。
A mountain after a mountain,bridges,streams,rivers,vineyards,trees,woods,

and towns are all on the trails to Santiago.Each is so vast and wild to me,that only can be linked together by Camino de Santiago.

 

長路漫漫又艱辛,我的朝聖夥伴,內心深處都是有所人生的期盼吧?都是走的如此堅定不移,那我呢?
前方原野這麼寬廣,在清晨初曉時分,我走在路上又是幹嘛來的?
我只整路嘮嘮叨叨說我腳痛死了。
即使如此,我的步伐依舊穩健,而我的心也下定決心去到最後目的地-聖地牙哥市。

Treading on a long and winding road ahead,my walking pals and I were walking on this hard route.They were really awesome
and physically amazing.God~they had walked so fast,but I was slow.Their eyes were perseverant and as hard as a tomb's stone.

On Their mind there must be some sort of expectation hidden deep inside,but what about me?

The road ahead was far and wide,in the breaking time of dawn,I walked on the stony ground,and all I did was nagging about my aching feet.

However,my gaits were also firmly put,and my heart was determined to the final goal-Santiago.

 

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其實聖地牙哥不是我第一個拜訪的聖地,以後大概也不是最後一個。
去聖地牙哥,也就是好玩並體驗歷史文化,同時並完成全球三大中世紀朝聖聖地的旅遊。
(註:3大中世紀聖地為,義大利羅馬、以色列耶路薩冷、西班牙聖地牙哥)。

As a matter of fact,Santiago isn't my first holy site to visit,and it won't be the last,either.
The purpose to visit Santiago was for fun,experience it's historical background and culture,
then complete the collection of the 3 main holy sites in medieval ages from this journey.
(Note:The main 3 holy sites are Rome,Italy,Jerusalum,Israel,and Santiago,Spain.)

 

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這個城有個米奇林餐廳,很好奇呢?但拿不定主意是否要去消費?
腳很痛,還起水泡,今晚寧願早一點休息。

This town had a Michelin restaurant,but I was indecisive if wanted to go.
I was tired and my feet had blisters.I'd rather retire earlier for tonight.

 

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Day 10

聖多明各-德拉卡爾薩達-貝洛拉多
Santos Domingo to Belorado
23 kms

 

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Marching in the twilight of the dawn.
昏暗晨光下的突進。

 

一大早5點多,就有人開始唏唏疏疏的在整理衣物,準備出發了,幾乎每天在庇護所都是這樣,我也只得起床收拾行李,好在每晚10點前必須就寢,

不然我已疲憊的身軀,在這麼早就被吵起,非讓我破口大罵一番不可。
說也奇怪,每日的身體疲勞,在一晚休息後,隔天早上總是又神采奕奕,連雙腳的痠痛感也好像沒那麼嚴重了。

As if it was a ritual at about 5 am every morning,some people started to wrap up their backpacks and made squeaking and rattling noises during the process.

It became a constant phenomenon at albergues everyday.
If it wasn't for pilgrims getting to bed early at 10 pm,which gave my body time to restore from the daytime's fatigue,

I definitely would make a series of curses under being forced to wake up this way.

Nonetheless,I always felt energetic after a long night's rest,and it seemed that the pain of my feet wasn't that much.

 

 

日子要過,路總是得走,我是天涯一浪人,打開大門,一股冷風頓時撫面而過,眼前聖多明各城鎮裡街道上的昏黃街燈,

讓我一時有種"我在這裡幹嘛!?"的感概。
我是獨自前來,即使昏暗晨光下分不清是白天還是黑夜,還是得獨自前走,出了城鎮,孤獨的身軀又慢慢進入眼前黑暗的山區低谷...

Days will pass over,and the road ahead must be treaded on.I was a drifter in the lonely world.
The cold wind caressed my face after I stepped over the threshold of the doors.

What laid before my eyes was the dim yellow street light in the town,triggering my sentimental sorrow from deep inside.

"Why am I being here?"I asked myself.

 

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第二星期展開後,走了很多公路旁的道路,感覺好走很多。一層又一層的田野,高處俯望,像是一塊又一塊拼成的地毯。
Entering the 2nd week of Camino de Santiago,I felt it'd been getting smooth in road condition.I'd got to walk a lot of roads by the high way.
From higher land,I saw the fields in the wilderness spreading layer by layer,which looked like a huge carpet knitted by different pieces of clothes with different patterns and colors.

 

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然後我記得,當人死亡前,靈魂會重新與天地取得連繫,作為回歸自然的最後巡禮。

靈魂飛過這些田野,向俗世作最後的道別。

如果有一天,你臨終前有夢到這樣,請記得,你必需準備好了。

 

Then,I remembered,before people die,their souls will re-connect with sky and earth,as if the last cruising made before returning to the nature.
Souls fly over these wonders in the wilderness,to bid the last good-bye to the world.

If, some day,your dreams show you this,please remember...
it's time to get ready...

 

 

 

請續下篇或是前篇文章

~ Continue to the next or previous articles~

 

1.朝聖者之路日記(一).

2.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (二)、Day 0 to Day 05.

4.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記(四)、Day 11 to Day 15.

 5.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (五)、Day 16 to Day 20.

6.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (六)、Day 21 to Day 25.

7.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (七)、Day 26 to Day 30.

 

 

 

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