My Very Own World

Day 16
卡里翁德洛斯孔德斯-聖殿之平台
Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios
26.1 kms

早上的晨光又是千變萬化，在家是夜貓子的我，何時見過這麼多天的自然美色，地勢與前半段已經有所不同，視界可及的範圍都是一片廣闊無邊的平地，

一路無詞，路中隨便找個地方吃點東西。
It was so caprical and gave various scene in every morning's sky light.I was used to be a night owl at home,if not for the walking itinerary,

I would never have had so much chance to see these picturesque nature.
I'd also noticed that the ground altitude had come lower if compared to the first week of the journey's.All I could see was a wide mass of horizen.
Not much to worry while walking,and I'd managed to find something to fill my stomache on the road randomly.

來之前本來很擔心會水土不服，所以在台灣的藥房買了一些便祕的藥，結果朝聖之旅，每天10點前就寢，隔天早上6、7點就出門，生活規律的很，

每天照常如廁，真是出乎我意料之外。
I was apprehensive before starting my journey about the food here.So Id picked up some comstipation pills from a drugstore near my home,

in case I needed it at the time of inconvenience.
But it turned out everything was just fine.
I got to go to bed before 10 pm every night,and went out of door at around 6 or 7 am every morning.

My daily routine so fixed and stable,which made my everydays visit to a toilet so regular.That was really surprised me.

半個月來累積的疲憊，已經讓我的腳受傷，我在今天的hostel休息，剛好在聖殿小村的外面，這個村更小，但是剛好是法國之路的中繼站，等於朝聖之旅已經來到了一半。
My feet were injured and the fatigue I had seemed to accumulate a little more.
So I quickly picked a hostel that was just out of the small village.
The village was really a small one,but this location happened to be the middle point of Camino de Santiago,which also meant I was on the half way of the whole French Way.

閒來無事，走到小村去跟人家串串門子、聊聊天，韓國團裡很多阿祖媽，不怕沒有三姑六婆作伴。
In a small village really didn't have anything going on,so I walked to find my other hiking pals.
I'd got a group of Koreans stayig in the village,

so it wouldn't be a problem to have nice talkative Korean women
 to chitchat with for fun.

Day 17

聖殿之平台-埃爾布爾戈拉內羅
Terradillos de los Templarios to El Burgo Ranero
29.3 kms

我自覺走的好慢，所以當有其他朝聖者經過，我就選一個跟著，儘量將腳步跟上他的移動頻率，就看著前面的屁股晃呀晃的，自己也就走得滿順的了，

不然真不知要走到什麼時候，這些人體力也太厲害了吧，我想，如果我的腳沒有受傷，應該也會走得滿好的，真的選錯鞋子了。
I realized I had been walking very slow.I thought it would be helpful if I followed some good hikers.Then,someone walked by,and quickly I followed his lead.

All the time,I watched his asses swinging from left to right.God,these people were so good in physical condition.

I thought I could have walked good too,if not for my shoes that I thought they were not right for long distance walking.

途中經過一些遺跡外，我並沒有停下腳步，我自己也搞不清楚到底這樣算快還是慢，可是一開始的一些熟悉面孔都不見了，取而代之的是新朋友。
I didn't take a break while passing by some ruins,even though they looked intriguing.
I had found some faces were gone,and new faces popping up.I was not sure if it were because I walked too slow.

終於到了，太陽好大，我跑到鎮上補給，遇上了Sara，好高興碰上"老朋友"，Sara從荷蘭來，好會走，她曾經從希臘一路騎腳踏車到土耳其，聊了一陣子，

回到青年旅館，遇上一位從英國跑來的退休婦人，大家一聊起來就要沒完沒了，

這已經不是她第一次來走，這次她是走走停停，有時就搭巴士，她倒是很愜意，而且她舉手投足，看起來就好像是舊電影的人物喔。
Jezz,finally,here I was.Sun was ferocious.I ran to a grocery store and got to meet Sara.I was so happy to see her.She came to walk from Netherland once.

She once rode a bike in one of her journey from Greece to Turkey.I chatted with her for a while,then I went back to my hostel.There was a British woman.

She had been visiting the Way for many times.She liked to take a break in whatever villages or towns that seemed interesting to her.

She looked leisurely relaxed and looke like a character from an old movie.

Day 18

埃爾布爾戈拉內羅-曼西利的德拉斯穆拉斯
El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas
18.7 kms

今天幸好不長，住進庇護所後，主人超會帶團康活動的，害我也被叫去唱歌，有夠丟臉的，哈哈，不過庇護所主人倒是提供了我另一種思維，

我曾認為朝聖之旅的各小鎮和村莊因為有了我們這些朝聖者經過消費，才不至於滅亡，然而她認為，一晚才10幾塊歐元的住宿，實在說不上什麼貢獻，

主要是教會和政府的補助，要不然冬天下雪的日子，大家豈不是要喝西北風?
Exhaled a breath to know today's road was finally over.It's not long though.I checked in the hostel.
The host of the hostel was so lively extrovert,and she held improvisedly a temporary get-together.I even was called to sing in front of everybody.Haha,so embarrased.

However,in our free time we talked a little.
I once thought if not for all the visits and consumption made by us,pilgrims,many small towns or villages might die off.
But she told me,she didn't think so.Because it's only 10 Euros around a night per person,which really couldn't be counted as a great help to the survival of her town.

It's mainly the supplement made by churches and government.

Otherwise,people in small villages or towns would be starving with less visitors in the time of low seasons like winter.

不管如何，我覺得其他朝聖者花得太少，我還是任性的去吃餐廳吧，晚上故意挑了一家當地很多人排隊的餐廳吃，還喝了一整瓶酒，醉醺醺地回來睡覺。

Nonetheless,I felt other pilgrims spent too little.As to me,I'd like to go to dine at a fancy restaurant here,where locals were crowded at.I even drank a whole bottle of wine.

Then I got back to hostel with a silly smile and was drunk.

這之前把小鎮的古蹟先走一遍，很小但滿有味道的，反正沒事，今天時間也很多，就拉了一位認識的韓國阿祖媽去逛逛，她是在大學教織布材料設計的，

只是沒想到，今天過後，我們就沒再見過面了，朝聖的旅客們~人生如浮雲相聚啊...
I toured the small town before dusk came upon.The village was small but full of nostalgic motif.
I'd got nothing to do ,so I pulled an old Korean woman to go with me as my companion.She was a professor teaching at an university about the pattern design of texture.
Little did I realize it was our last get-together,for I had never seen her ever since.
People here...met with each other as clouds in the sky,come and gone as capricious as they could be.

Day 19

曼西利的德拉斯穆拉斯-雷昂
Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon
18 kms

腳趾甲有一根變黑了，另一根趾甲好像快要翻掉了，我不敢直接把它扯掉，乾脆讓它底下的新趾甲自己慢慢長起來，趾甲自己掉比較好，暫時只能用襪子包一下保護，

我速度已經無法變快，每天到達庇護所前，腳都好像要斷了，只是休息一晚，隔天就恢復一些，今天也是這樣。
One of my toe nails turned black,and the other one seemed to be torn off.But I didn't dare to rip it off completely.I'd rather let it fall off naturally,besides the new nail underneath was growing back.I could wrap it up with my socks as a makeshift for protection.However,my walking speed was no longer fast.I felt my legs were going to break ,everytime I went near my albergue.

I would recover a little after a night's sleep and rest,which was almost the same thing as my everyday's life now.

早上仍然一片漆黑上路，其實我很喜歡一早安安靜靜，四周無人的時候自己一人在路上慢走，然而一時找不到貝殼記號也是有的，有時在四下無人東張西望半天後，

就有其他人找到後招呼過去，朝聖之路的標誌算是很清楚，大家有要來不用擔心這個指標的事情，韓國團的其中一個領隊，腳程驚人，不過他是職業的，

他們的團都先由領隊其中一人先出發，其他人才慢慢跟上，過地下橋前，他還走錯路，還好我把他叫回來，

走錯路變成多走路，我最清楚了，哈哈，我有走錯過，腳已經痛死了，還一直走錯，就會很幹，不過很簡單解決，不用害怕，一是跟著貝殼標誌走，再來不確定時，

打開Google Map或者是GPS地圖，最後真的不行才問一下路人，不會迷失，所以我在路上，內心一直都很安定。
It was still dark after I set my feet on the road again next morning.In fact,I was kind of enjoying this way.There was no one around but me,slowly,quietly,and lonely walking on the earth.

Sometimes,I couldn't pin down a shell mark,and I would spend some time in searching for its trace when no one was around to consult with.

Most of the time there was someone who caught up with me and pointed out the direction for me.Basically,the marks of direction were very clear,so there's no need to worry much if you come.

One of tour guides from the Korean group was professionally efficient in walking.They usually sent out one man first,like being a leading role,then others could slowly catch up with him later.

Today,he went on the wrong route,but luckily I hailed him and helped him back to the right track.Haha,I knew this very much,for I had a lot of experiences of being on the wrong roads.

It was really annoying when I walked the wrong way.Because I needed to spend more time to walk back,and meanwhile,I needed to endure longer time for my feet in pain.

The way to solve derailment from correct tracks is easy.First,follow the seashell marks.Secondly,if you are still not sure,then open your Google Map or GPS on your mobile phone.

and the last,when none of above-mentioned is not working,go find some one to consult with.

That's it.Actually,I didn't get lost at all.Thus,my mind was very calm all the time,whenever I was on the road.

今天目的地是雷昂大城，久仰大名，很是期待呢。
Today's destination was City Leon.I'd heard much about it,and was looking forwards to seeing it myself.My expectation was brewing high.

路上與一位美國女教師和他的同夥Gonzales同走，一路聊天，時間很快就過去，他們也好厲害，最難的第一天，我都快要虛脫了，他們竟然走了快2倍距離，我的媽呀，超人呢!我預計我的旅程是一個月走完，他們說本來也是一個月要走完，現在他們只怕只需用2星期就可以了，他們覺得這樣也好，他們有時就會覺得無聊，一路數數碰到的動物，和一堆牛屎什麼的，哈哈，我真的不建議這樣過生活啦，朝聖之路可以讓人沉澱下來，好好讓自己與天地有一個共處的時光，讓自己靈魂真真切切地面對自己一下，這樣不是很好?雖然人生苦短，但也不用急成這樣咩~
 

I encountered with an Amercian teacher and her companion,Gonzales.We then walked together,and talked with each other casually,which made time flied fast.

They were extremely good at hiking.The first day should have been the hardest day,but they had walked for almost double of planned distance.My Goondness ! they were supermen I guessed.
I was planning to finish the journey in one month.They said they had been about to do the same,but it seemed to them they could finish the tour by just 2 weeks.They told me it would be good to them,for they sometimes were kind of being bored,so they could kill time by counting all sorts of animals they had seen on the way.Or even better,they count cow shits too.Haha.

I really don't recommend to lead life this way though.Camino de Santiao could make our mind calm and stable,like settling down from chaotic floats to sediments.And it offers us a precious time to interact with nature.A time that we truly meet with ourselves and souls.Isn't it nice this way?
I know life is short,but not that short to be hurry like mad.

要下坡了，抬頭一看前面開展的雷昂市，到了呢，今天有點早，哈哈，店面都還沒人開門。
Going down the slops,I raised my head and stared at City Leon spreading in front of me.
Here I was.
I was here too early.Some of shops were not open yet.
 

下榻的青年旅館可以租借腳踏車，而這也是我第一次遇見德國來的Andy，以後再說他，我整理休息一下就趕緊出門去了，因為離舊城區還有段距離，幸好有腳踏車代步，不然我的腳禁不起再多走，雷昂是大城，非常熱鬧，當然中心熱區就雷昂大主教座堂那裡，有了腳踏車，我意氣風發四處亂繞，通常我會先探一下明天的方向，有腳踏車我就預先騎一遍出城的路徑，順便參訪觀光地點，回程時遇上了Andrew，他戴上牛仔帽看起來非常的英俊，年輕就是有本錢，

沿路似乎不少人認識我，應該是經過我時，對我沿途艱苦走路的狼狽樣子有深刻印象吧?

My hostel offered bikes for us,and I made a new friend here also.This is my first time to see Andy.I'll say more about him.
I quickly packed a few things than I hit the road again,because I wanted to use time well,and the distance to old town area was quite far from my hostel.It'd good that I had the bike,or I didnt think my feet could bear my weight a little bit longer.Leon was a big city,a very tumultuous one.Its center should be the Cathedral Leon(Cathedral of Santa Maria).

I'd got the bike,so I could explore tomorrow's route out of city beforehand.I also visited some of interesting tourist spots along the way.I got to meet Andrew again.He was wearing a cowboy's hat,and looked very handsome.He was very young,only 20 around.Sign~,youth is definitely beautiful.
I rode on the road,I guessed I looked fantastic,haha,for many people turned to look at me.Actually,I believed some of them I knew already.

在城裡吃完晚飯，又到超級市場補給一下，我明天又要早一點出發，因為我今晚睡在城邊邊，從青年旅館要出城到雷昂市的另一邊，幾乎比睡在舊城區的人多了快3公里的路，買太多食物，吃不完，就全送給旅館主人了,睡覺去，又一天結束了。

I had my dinner in the old town,and I went to a big super market to buy more food.I needed to set off early tomorrow,because my hostel was located in the edge of the city.Tomorrow,I would have to walk from here to the other side of Leon city.It was almost much longer by 3 kilometers than those people had got,who slept over in the old town area.
I bought too much food tonight.I couldn't eat them all.So I gave away to the host and then hit the bed.Another day was over.
 

Day 20

雷昂-卡米諾的聖馬丁
Leon to San Martin del Camino
25 kms

冷涼的風吹在臉上，我在早上沿著都市的公園走著，天都沒亮，我分不清是白天還是黑夜，公園的散步走道兩旁的照明亮了一整列，好像在走星光大道，走著走著景色又變了，四周好像郊區的工業區，大馬路上杏無人煙，寂靜的世界，漂浪的我，走過馬路，我又轉向山區去了。
The wind was cold when it caressed my face in the early morning.Walking down the promenade of the park,which was paralleled by a seris of ground lamps that illuminating the road,like I was walking down the catwalk at some sort of movie premiere. I was having the delusion of being not able to tell if it was at daytime or at night,for it was too early,and even stars hadn't gone. 

Walking on,and then the scene changed,I was now in the suburban area of an industrial zone.There was no one on the road at all.
In the world of desolation,a drifting me,I walked across the wide road and turned to hills again.

今天的路好長，一個鄉鎮又一鎮的過，我好像走錯路了! 遇上了來自日本的Lucy，請她幫忙找一下我的路徑，朝聖之路沿途有很多村鎮可以自選休息處，這時有些路徑會分岔，今天我必需橫切過到另一庇護所去，因為我的行李早就寄過去了，我人也必需過去才能拿到行李，結果多走了5公里。
Today's distance was long.I passed by towns,and then to realize I went to the wrong way.But I bumped into Lucy from Japan.I asked her for direction.

She didn't have the same albergue as mine today.

Pilgrims can choose what towns or villages to sleep over along the way by our own will.
Sometimes,the way forked to 2 or 3 ways.I went to the wrong way and I was going to miss my albergue.
So,I must go across to the right one,which meant I needed to walk about 5 kms more.I had already sent my luggage there,so I couldn't help but go as planned.

終於到了，腳好像會發抖，而且聖馬里納根本是大馬路旁的小地方，沒地方去，到對面吃了晚餐，西班牙北部餐廳還是酒吧，很多都是只有一個店員顧店，要招呼客人，準備餐點飲料，還要收錢、打掃，我們常說台灣便利商店店員是全能型，其實世界各地很多人都是這麼的努力生活，另外西班牙有別國很少有的"午休"時間，我必需說，真的有需要，因為中午太熱了，是發了瘋的那種熱，所以我中午左右到達，幾乎所有大小城鎮的路上都沒什麼人。
Finally,I arrived,and my feet seemed to tremble a little,ha.
St.Marina was a very small town,and my albergue was right by the road where,had a lot of huge trunks transporting to and fro.
I went across to the opposite restaurant for my dinner.

In Taiwan,we usually give credits to the employees at convenient stores,for they are busy as hell,taking care of all sorts of work.
Here in Spain,it's very usual that there was only one employee in one restaurant,

who works his or her ass off to take care of customers' orders of meals and drinks,charge bills,and cleaning,all the jazz.

So you see,people around the world are all very diligent in working.
By the way,not many countries have "siesta".I have to point out that it is necessary to have siesta,because it is God dame hot at noon time in Spain.The heat at noon time could drive you mad.

I usually arrived at around noon,so no wonder had I found just few people in the streets.

我要休息了，晚上忽然想到，啊~已經剩不多時間了，這麼快就要結束了嗎?
我雖然腳痛，可是我愈來愈能享受朝聖之旅的樂趣了，其實沿途景色真是漂亮。
I really needed to rest.When lying on bed,it suddenly hit me,ah~ the journey was drawing to its end."Really?", I asked myself.
I had a little disbelief.How fast time flied !
I was just getting a hand to enjoy the Way now,even my feet were not in good condition.
I really had to say,the views were outstandingly beautiful.

請續下篇或是前篇文章

~ Continue to the next or previous articles~

1.朝聖者之路日記(一).

2.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (二)、Day 0 to Day 05.

 3.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (三)、Day 06 to Day 10.

4.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記(四)、Day 11 to Day 15.

6.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (六)、Day 21 to Day 25.

7.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (七)、Day 26 to Day 30.