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Day 21
卡米諾的聖馬丁-阿斯托爾加
San Martin to Astorga 

24.2 kms

 

雖然經常走入山坡間,但這些天以來,拜訪較大規模的城鎮機率愈來愈高,景色看來又變了,從最初的山林、鄉野,現在比較多機會走進發展較好的大城鎮,這些有著舊城區的城鎮,氣質高雅,風姿卓越,一路看來美不勝收。

Though I'd been used to walk on the trails among hills,however,in these few days,I had gotten to frequent larger towns or cities.It seemed the surrounding scenes were changed again,from mountains to country sides,and now more well-developed cities.
These cities with old town area were usually elegant and graceful.It's so amusing to visit these towns along the way.

 

今天一早似乎有點涼,走了一會,到了比利亞雷斯德奧爾維戈(Villares de Orbigo),這個城鎮有羅馬時期的連外大橋真是氣勢磅礡,是我目前在法國之路以來,最壯觀的羅馬石橋,橋下河流已乾枯,想必也已改道,因為橋下成為很大的廣場,看到旁邊看板好像這裡時不時舉辦羅馬騎兵的表演,應該如同我在匈牙利北部的維謝格拉德(Visegrad)觀賞到的表演類似。

I reached Villares de Orbigo in a chilly morning.
There's a magnificent stone bridge built in Roman times,serving the function of connecting with outside world.The bridge was so great and imposing

that it was the grandest bridge ever on the Way so far.
The river had been dried out.I guessed it also had been derailed to other direction,so the ground under bridge became a large square,as large as a football field.

I read the sign stood up beside saying there were many events would be held at the sqaure under bridge.Some sort of performance of horsemen and horse riding,etc.

I thought it should be similar with the one I had seen in Visegrad,north of Hungary.

 

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竟然碰到Elena 和 Rino,還有一個同樣來自義大利的新朋友Macro,景色不錯趕緊照相,由於我腳有些些疼,而且我還在觀賞大橋景色,就不跟他們同行了,遇上老朋友新情是很好的,因為他們算是我最早認識的第一批人。

On the bridge,I met with old friends,Elena and Rino,and a new friend Marco from Italy.
The view on the bridge was so pretty,so we took photos together,which just reminded me that I didn't take photos with others as often as I should be.
Since my feet were in pain,and I was so busy in appreciating the scenes around.I had to say bye bye to them,and let them go ahead.I was not going to walk with them.Meeting old friends gave me a good mood,and they were considered the first patch of people I had met in this journey.

我一直以為我走很慢,這批人可能早早都快到了,過橋後,捷克的Lucy從旁邊來打招呼,我已經有一陣子沒看到她了,也是好高興,就一起邊聊天邊走了,有人一起走就稍微快些,氣喘吁吁地我們一起走到山上,到了山路旁某一處有個義大利人跑來開設簡單的咖啡車,很多人就在此處休息,

我實在沒甚麼可以做的,休息一下跟Lucy說一聲,也就先走了。

I thought I had been very slow,and many people I knew might have already walked over me to the very front or to the next villages.
After passing the bridge,I was happy to see Lucy from Czech,she greeted and caught me by surprise.I hadn't seen her for many days already.We chatted and walked together.Our walking paces seemed to get up with some speed dued to having companions.We breathed heavily when hiking up the long slope,and when we reached to a coffee shack that an Italian opened,we decided to take a break.There were many walkig pals stopped here too.After a while,I really didn't have anything to do.So I bade my goodby to Lucy and went along again.

 

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我的腳過一段時間右小腿開始疼痛起來,之前都沒有啊!但是我也來到了阿斯托爾加的外圍公園了,說是公園,還是連著山路開發出來的,這點西班牙很捨的花錢建設呢,雖然慶幸有柏油路可走,可是下坡對我的腿並不利,有夠狼狽的,雖然看得到市區,但是還很遠,至少快到了。

My right calf started to play monkey after walking for a long while.I had never had this syndrome before.However,I was drawing near the outskirt park of Astorga.Speaking of this,I really have to say that Spanish government really spent a lot of money in building parks,especially those parks were built along the mountainous trails.I was glad that I had the asphalt to walk on,but descending from slopes was not good to my legs.I must look so worse now.I knew Astorga was near,I could even see it from the hill,but actually it was still very far from me.
 

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走到市外工廠牆邊,我的腰骨開始痛起來,很明顯是從左膝蓋一直到左腰上來,天!可是路剩一點點啊,馬上就可以到了,我只好拼命走幾步,停一下,因為這時候不可能有人可以幫的,短短幾百公尺,我卻走了快半小時,過一會,Lucy、Elithbath和她妹妹也趕上來了,他們給了我止痛藥錠暫時止一下疼痛,我不好意思牽累別人,就請她們先走,反正也快到了,我休息一下應該可以成功到達。

When I closed to the factory's walls that were just at the brims of the city,my left hip bone began to ache.It's apparently transmitted from my knees.God~,all I needed was to walk a little more further.I was so close.I kept a way of walking few steps,and then stopping for a while.It was impossible that I could get help from anyone under the circumstance.

It took me a half of hour to walk just few hundreds of meters.
After a while,Lucy,Elithabeth and her sister were also catching up,they gave me some tablets of pain killers to contain my aching,hoping to temporarily last for a few moment.
I didn't want to slow them down,so I let them go and told them we were near anyway.I would meet them there after a short break.

跟她們道別後,我只好慢慢走,後來到了阿斯托爾加市山腳下,Rino 和 Elena也趕過我了,我倒還要爬上山去找我的庇護所,西班牙的中世紀城鎮很多都是建在附近地形的相對高點,沒想到上去後,庇護所就在附近,終於鬆了一口氣。

After saying goodby to them,I resumed my walking slowly.At the hill foot of Astorga City,Rino and Elena caught up with me again.I needed to go high up hill to find my albergue.Almost middle-aged towns or cities built in Spain were in a relatively high location compared to surrounding lands.
Luckily,when I finally reached up there,I saw my albergue was not far from me,and then I could release my tension at last.

 

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Checked in 後被分配到和lucy她們同一房間,我放好行李,開始慢慢整理自己,趕緊躺上床休息,過了1、2小時,腳竟然不痛了,就趕緊出門遊玩去,哈哈,Elithbath 她們倒覺得很神奇。

After checking in,and I'd found I was assigned to live with Lucy ,Elithabeth,and Clair.I put down my backpack and washed myself.After I lay down on bed for couples of hours,my feet got back to be normal.I was surprised to know the pain on my waist and knees were subdued.I quickly went out of door for city tour,which amazed my roommates a lot.
 

阿斯托爾加是以製造巧克力著名,城裡到處買的到巧克力,買了一些等下回去分給她們吃,算答謝她們給藥的恩情。

Astorga is famous for its chocolate manufacture.The candy shops are all around in city.
I bought some for my roommates to show them my gratitude for giving me medicine today.

 

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主廣場好多遊客,市政廳很漂亮,很有歷史,前面忽然走來Migul和Andrew,我好高興,就一起路邊餐廳吃午餐聊聊天,Migul他們也是我第一批認識的人,感動地都要哭了,這陣子大家去哪裡了?

The square in front of City Hall looked pretty,and ancient.Out of blue Miguel and Andrew were walking towards me from crowds,I was so happy to see them.We talked and dined together later.They were ones of my first patch of friends in Camino de Santiago too.I was so happy that I could cry,haha.Where had they been? I hadn't seen them for some time.

西班牙餐廳叫飲料,其實就是啤酒,一些餐廳會送一點Tapas給客人吃,Andrew還以為他賺到,Migul等下要往下一個城鎮去,我是不行了,非休息不可,我的腳已經受傷,沒想到Andrew也受傷了,雖然看起來沒有我的嚴重,朝聖者到最後一階段,多少身上都有些傷吧?Andrew要到城邊的一家庇護所去,我就陪他走一段,順便到這裡的大主教堂參觀,這間是開發成博物館,所以規模不小。

We had some beers.In Spain,some of restaurants would give away a little bit of tapas if you ordered drinks from them.Andrew thought he was so lucky to have it for free,lol.

No.it wasn't that,Andrew,ha.
Miguel wanted to go to the next village.I couldn't do that,for my feet were injured,and I needed some rest,so were Andrew's feet.His feet were not serious as mine though.I guessed ,

perhaps pilgrims walked so long,and in the last flight we might have some wounds more or less.
Andrew wanted to his albergue,which was in the other side of Astorga.So I walked him to his place for a while,and I also went to visit the Astorga Cathedral here.

The cathedral had been developed into a grand museum.It''s scale was large.

 

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Andrew沒有跟著進來,他坐在外面休息,我還以為是在等我,正在想等我要幹嘛?就跟他說,你不進來我就要自己去參觀,可能要一陣子才出來,他說他坐一下,等我出來後,他已經不在了,而這也是我跟他們的最後一面。

Andrew didn't come in to the museum with me.He waited outside and tendered his wounds on his feet.
I thought he was waiting for me.I told him it'd take me for a while,"do you wanna come in as well?"
He said it's all right,he'll rest outside for a while.
When I finished my tour,and got out.
He was already gone,and this was the last time I saw him.

 

出來看不到Andrew,心下有點悵然,但想可能明後天又會碰面吧?在阿斯托爾加的小巷弄亂走,結果竟然碰到荷蘭的Sara,把我叫住,我們相談一會,

我送她回她的庇護所,天!Sara 跟我相擁道別,我卻說不出再見...

I couldn't find Andrew when I got out of the Cathedral and felt so lost somehow,but I thought,perhaps we would meet again tomorrow or the day after tomorrow?
I started touring among Astorga's lanes,and bumped into Sara from Netherland.She halted me and we chatted with each other happily.We talked more and walked together back to her albergue.
Then,God~,She gave me a warm hug to say goodbye.
I was so emotional and couldn't even come up with anything to say to her,

for I knew this was our last goodbye...

 

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Day 22
阿斯托爾加-豐瑟巴東
Astorga to Foncebadon
26 kms

 

快下雨了嗎?
天上看起來陰陰的,不久就會下起雨,我的天,這真是不好的消息,我最討厭又濕又暗的時候走路了。

"Is it going to rain?",I told to myself.
The sky was overcast,I believed,before long it would start to drop some rain.
Oh~this was no good to me.I hated to walk in the rain,and in the dark,too.

 

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昨天左膝有疼痛到差點不能走,還傳導疼痛到左臀部,盡管如此,我還是如計畫完成該階段的路途。
但是今天我卻走的很順又快,比我預計還早就入住庇護所。
剩沒幾天就要大功圓滿了,即使身上有傷,還是要堅持下去,否則前功盡棄。

Yesterday,my left knee made me hard to walk,and even transmitted the pain to my left hip.Nonetheless,I still hold on tight and sticked to my plan of finishing my journey .
However,today's walking was better and faster than I had expected.
I checked in my hostel very early today.
Not many days left,I must persist on what I had started,even under the condition that I was wounded.

 

我是很受感動的,即使我一直說,我只是以觀光客的立場來文化體驗,事實上我並不是,不管我是不是基督徒,還是觀光客,抑或是內心有求於天主,只要我人在往聖地牙哥的路上,我就是朝聖者,以古法一步一腳印,風吹、日曬、雨淋,沒人逼,我也沒偷懶,這身體和意志的鍛鍊,背後有著大家強大愛的力量和鼓勵支持著。

I was touched deep inside, by each friend's perseverance,even though I had told people I was just a dame tourist coming here to experience the culture.

Truth was,no matter if I were a Catholic,or tourist,or a pilgrim looking for salvation,as long as I was on the road walking as St.James' way to Santiago,I was seen as a pilgrim as well.
No one forced me to walk and play hard here,regardless sun toasted,rain fell,or wind blew.
I had not been lazy at all.
No,not a bit.
It's all because the practice of training my will and body was bolstered by everyone's inner love and encouragement.

 

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豐瑟巴東是一個非常小的山中小村,這一路的走勢其實還在往上,只是路途遠,所以爬山的動作並不是很明顯,探了一下明天的方向,我必需往更高的山上去,然後越過山頭,再往山下走,而這時已經不是柏油路面了,山上亂石零散,我可要小心一點走。

Foncebadon was a very,very little village in mountains.
I walked on the road that was going up to the higer ground constantly,but the long distance concealed in the ascending slopes,making my hiking was less difficult.
I explored my route out of the village for tomorrow.It indicated that the descending slopes would show up, after going  higher,crossing the peak of the mountain.
I must pay attention to the road ,for it was not asphalt anymore,but of rocks scattering everywhere.

 

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不知道是否其他人都超過我,我看不到有人與我同一間寢室,就趕緊上個廁所,洗個澡,結果過一會有人入住,可能我洗太久了,有人不耐煩,直說我佔了浴室半小時,別人都無法使用,嘮嘮叨叨的,我也沒說什麼,也沒道歉,就請他隨意用,就一間廁所連同浴室,我能怎麼辦?半小時很過分嗎?

I had no idea if other pilgrims had already surpassed me by,but I saw no others staying in the same room with me.
I took the adventage of this opportunity to take a dump and then a shower.I might have taken the bath too long to notice other people coming in the room.

I might have spent too long inside,I didn't know.There's a dude complaining to me about it,saying I'd occupied the bathroom too long by over a half of hour or something like that.

He kept nagging by my ears,but I didn't say anything and I didn't apologize either.I simply asked him to go ahead use the bathroom,he could knock it out and use it as long as he wanted.

What else could I do ? I really didn't think a half of hour was that so long a time.
我不想因為這種事生氣,因為我也只是天涯過客,還是從亞洲過來的遠客,最好不要跟人起衝突,我還是出去逛逛,探勘一下明天的路徑怎麼走比較正經,道不同,那就不要互相為謀,明天大家還不是會各走各的。

I didn't want to get upset by this kind of stuff,for I was only a passer-by,and a guest from a very far place in Asia too.
It's better not to involve in disputes with others under the circumstance.I'd better get out and use my time to tour around,or even better I could explore tomorrow's route beforehand.

If there's no way to befriend,tomorrow,we would all go our own separate way.
 

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Day 23
豐瑟巴東-蓬費拉達
Foncebadon to Ponferrada
28 kms

 

Pushed up to the highest point,and the last big city before reaching Holy City.
推進最高點,進入聖城前最後一個大都市。

 

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今早我6點就出發了,月亮還高掛天上,照耀著我的前途。
一路艱苦的爬上去,滿路巨岩碎石,眼看沒人從後面跟來,我一度以為自己迷路了,忽然覺得怎麼我在荒郊野外漆黑的山中爬山!!沒事做屁股癢,自己都覺得好笑。
黑暗中我走了幾公里後,來到了整個朝聖之旅的最高點,La Cruz de Ferro.十字架下面的石堆是我們朝聖者丟成堆的,

每個朝聖者在這裡經過都會丟一塊石頭,象徵將過去的包袱在今天卸下。
看不出現在是早晨,高聳的十字架在黑夜的星光下呈現不同的光景,說不出來的雋永,感受到包藏著人們的遺憾。

I set off at 6:00 am this morning,moon was still hanging up in the sky,shining on the roads ahead for me.
I walked up the trails in a struggle way.What I had treaded on was full of stones or large rocks.Having no others coming behind me,I once thought I'd got lost somewhere.
It's me to blame to take on the challenge of walking to Santiago simply for being bored,ha.
In the dark,I'd walked few more Ks to reach the highest point of the whole Camino de Santiago,La Cruz de Ferro.
It is the place that all pilgrims would throw a stone at the base of the Crucifix,representing laying down all burden before today.
I couldn't tell if it were daytime or at night.The high erected crucifix was standing tall in obscure starlight,revealing an unaccountable perennial image that seemed to tell a hidden remorse of mankind.

 

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離開山頂,總算路徑開始向下坡去,來到莫利納塞卡鎮前的這個山中小村莊,總算可以休息喝個咖啡,休息一下後慢慢走過這裡,因為這個村莊太過漂亮了,

太美了,不是豪華精細的美,而是樸質純真中流露出典雅,讓我有點流連不定,不禁放慢了腳步。
走到了山腳下,要穿過這個小鎮,前面的跨河橋下正在施工,好可惜呢!入口的美景看不到了,不然古典優雅的西班牙城鎮是很美麗的,

只是我也不懂,西班牙城鎮很多都人口少少的,要如何維持鄉鎮的建設和經濟呢?
Walking away from the top,at last,I got to the slope that descending to downhill.The little mountainous village to Molinaseca town provided me a good spot to take a break.

I had my nice coffee.Then I resumed my journey in a very slow pace,

because this little village was so beautiful and tranquilt,not luxuriously exquisite,but primitively dainty that making me really didn't want to go pass too fast.

Reached to the foot of the hill,now I came to the entrance bridge of Molinaseca.The bridge was under maintanence.The engineering trucks spoiled its pretty view.

These elegant Spanish towns are usually very beautiful.
Actually,I don't quite understand why these towns come up with sufficient funds to cover their infra-structure.

Generally,the population in these town is quite little.Where do these local governemnts get tax from ?

 

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走過城鎮的另一頭,喝杯啤酒就上路了,腳的狀況不佳,早些走早點可以休息,彎彎曲曲的道路,至少還是柏油路面,

也不知多久,終於看到蓬費拉達市在眼前,只是看到跟走到差很遠,

不管如何,我來了,蓬費拉達市,很高興認識你。
I had my beer at the end of the town,then I kept hitting on the road.My feet were not in good condition,I wanted to rest as soon as possible.

The roads were winding,at least they were asphalts now.I didn't know how long I had walked before Ponferrada came into my sight.
Even though the distance of getting into the city was still very far,
however,I had to say,"Nice to meet you,Ponferrada."

 

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入住後整理好自己,我想要探一下這座城,所以心情還算很興奮,雖然腳還有些疼痛。
這裡有很重要且龐大的中古城堡,顧不得腳痛趕緊去參觀,不然太陽下山就不妙,之後跑去超市,途中碰到了德國來的Andy,

Andy說他是療養院護士,左耳垂弄了個大洞,好嬉皮造型,不管耳環、肚環、還是舌環什麼的,我從沒有刺穿過,Andy待我還不錯,讓我玩他的耳垂,哈哈,好軟,

而且中間的洞跟我的大拇指一樣寬,為了不讓耳洞日後閉合起來,他用了寬帶的橡皮筋塞住,原來是這樣。
我之後再也沒見過他,朝聖之路的人形形色色,感恩啦,大家算結個善緣,雖然玩他耳朵有點情色,哈哈。

After checked in,I wanted to explore this city.So,my mood was kind of excited,even though my feet were tortured,but it was still all right.
There was a huge and vital middle-aged castle.I let go my worries about the pain of my feet,and hurried out for the tour,or it wouldn't be good to me,if sun went down.
Before the tour,I went to the supermarket for supplement.I bumped into Andy from Germany on my way.
Andy told me he was a nurse working at a hospital taking care of senior citizens.
He had a pierced ear.A big hole on his left earlobe.The hole was as wide as my thumb's.

He put an elastic band into his earlobe. The elastic band was wide and it prevented the hole from closing up.
I didn't know that,for I have never had piercings on me before.Not on any part of me,not on ears,belly or tonge,no.

Andy was nice to me.He even let me play the hole on his earlobe,and which was kind of sensual,hahaha.It's so soft,cushioned like.
But I had never seen him again after that day.

People here were so diverse on Camino de Santiago.I couldn't control anything at all.I saw my encounters with people as some sort of karma or fate.

I thought it would be better this way.

 

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其實,結識的還有好多人,這裡每個人好像都認識我!我的媽呀,那就不能作壞事了,哈哈哈,

我寫這篇的時候已經不太記得名字了,旅行就是這樣,我以前都懶得拍照或寫下經歷,現在有空都會整理一下,我發現記憶會隨著年歲流逝,

但是只要我看一下照片和紀錄,我都會忽然回到當時的時光,

想起很多人和事情...
Speaking of Andy,actually,I had met many people on the way.
When I was writting this article,I have already forgotten some of their names.
It's inevitable to have things like this when I tour around.I used to be too lazy to take photos or write down my experiences.

Nonetheless,now I would sort out my data in my free time.Because I've found out my memory would be depreciated bit by bit out of me through time.
Whenever I flip over my photos and records from time to time,my thoughts could always bring me back to the time I was being,

reminding me of many people and matters...

 

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Day 24

蓬費拉達-Pereje
Ponferrada to Pereje
29.3 kms

 

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昨晚有隻肥的打呼了一陣子,害我著實醒著好幾個小時。
早上5點,整理一下要出門了,我忽然想要趕快結束這旅程,來到朝聖最後階段了,

我正試著每天多走一些,希望可以提早一點完成,現在愈來愈期待進入聖城,而且好像想起媽來了,今天將正式進入朝聖最後一省,西班牙加利西亞的大門。
Last night,some fat guy snored good that literally made me staying awake for a while.
5 a.m.,I packed and then went to check out.Time to hit the road.
The thought of ending this journey as soon as possible came out of blue.However,I was in the last stage.
I was trying to walk a little more everyday to shorten my journey,and I was really looking forward to seeing the Holy City.
I hoped to get there sooner.
Besides all that,I missed my Mom.

 

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清晨蓬費拉達的街道杏無人煙,難得可以一早就走在現代街道上,而不是荒郊野外中,街道上無聲,一片寂靜,只有我腳步輕輕迴盪在周邊,很是奇特,

彷彿世上只有我一個人漫步其中。
The early morning in the street of Ponferrada,I could find no one there.It's rare that I could walk on a city street instead of coarse trails in the mountains.

My footsteps on the street tiles resonated around me.Everything seemed to die away in the world but me loitering in it.

 

 

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漸漸地走出市郊,沿途經過更多城鎮,也走過葡萄果園,如果我想將行程擠在一個月內完成,那我現在每天都要多走一點,因此稍微逼一下自己,

今晚就睡在Pereje一個小小的村裡,途中較大的城鎮比耶爾索自由鎮(Villafranca del Bierzo)就不住下了。
I was on the road of leaving Ponferrada.I kept passing more towns,and vineyards.
I thought to myself,if I wanted to finish my journey within one month,then I must walk more ks everyday from now on.
Tonight I was planning to sleep over in a small village,Pereje.I forced myself to skip a larger town,

bye bye Villafranca del Bierzo.

 

 

 

 

 

Day 25

Pereje-康得薩
Pereje to Hospital de Condesa
31 kms

 

強攻加利西亞最高點。
Pushing with all my might into the highest point of Galicia.

大家又是天都還沒亮就起床整理,早上5點到底是在忙什麼?我6:30出門竟然算是晚了!!
Really,I had no idea why everybody got up so early, for what? At 5:00 am, the outside was still pitch dark.
I set off at 6:30,which was considered to be late already!! Ah~

 

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今天前面一段倒還好走,就走在公路旁,後面在La Faba開始給我爬坡,我的媽呀,有點像第一天的經典再現,心裡都毛起來,不會“仆街”吧?!!
The 1st part of today's walking route seemed fine to me.Basically,I just walked along the freeway.
But the 2nd part starting in La Faba was a nightmare.I engaged with a long ascending slope,and a slope and then aother slope,

which reminded me of the 1st day's ascending slopes.It made me feel so terrifying.

 

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奇怪的是,我竟然一一走完,順利完成,我的媽呀,那不是一般的路耶!我爬的是大、小石塊滿佈在石床上,青苔和馬糞、牛糞散在好幾公里上,

不要傷心,西班牙的鄉間美景一如往昔,美到好像每個轉彎都有如畫裡,不過先不要呼吸,哈哈。
Weird,today,I walked smoothly,I finished a slope and a slope without much difficulty.

Those slopes were covered with innumerous big and small rocks,stones,not to mention mosses and cow shit ,or horse shit all the way.
However,don't feel sad,because Spanish country is as beautiful as usual.
It was so pretty that I thought it was like being in a scenic picture at every corner,but at first,stop inhaling for a while,haha.
I was panting really heavily.

 

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終於登上加利西亞最高點海拔1335公尺,於1270公尺立了朝聖者冬季攀登的紀念雕像。
I succeeded to get on the highest point,altitude 1335 m.There was a commemorative statue of pilgrim set up there,at altitude 1270 m.
The statue was to describe the pilgrims crossing over mountain peak here in winter.

 

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我尚沒決定明天是否走長?還是走短?覺的大家都很厲害,但是搭巴士跑來從這些點開始走的人也增多了,

同時我距聖城也不到200公里了...
I hadn't decided yet,if I wanted to go long or short for tomorrow's itinerary.I thought everybody was so good in physical condition,except me.
And people took buses to come to walk from neighboring villages,too.
Meanwhile,the distance to Holy City was less than 200 kms from now on...

 

 

 

請續下篇或是前篇文章

~ Continue to the next or previous articles~

 

1.朝聖者之路日記(一).

2.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (二)、Day 0 to Day 05.

3.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (三)、Day 06 to Day 10.

4.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記(四)、Day 11 to Day 15.

5.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (五)、Day 16 to Day 20.

7.愛與勇氣-朝聖者之路日記 (七)、Day 26 to Day 30.

 

 

 

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