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(三)、緬甸篇-菩薩捻花微笑的國度
     
 Myanmar - A Country to where,Buddhisattva holds a flower to smile at.

(3-5).預見的未來-仰光
The Foreseen Future ,Yangon.

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晚上從巴士站下車一直到司機找到我訂的飯店後,都已經要9點了,

然而我還是察覺一些不同,因為主要街上很熱鬧外,有些路竟然還有路燈,

哈哈,唉喲!真的回到較現代化的城市,不是二城曼德勒市可以比的。
After the arrival and got off at the bus station in city center,

I hailed a taxi and asked my cabby to find my hotel that I had booked.
It's was 9:00 pm already when I checked in.
However,I had still sensed some subtle variants when compared Yangon to other cities in Myanmar.
The streets were equiped with more lights at night.I couldn't help but exclaimed a little,

"Ay~,it's far more better than other cities,like Mandalay."
Really,I was back to life in modern urban.

 

仰光是舊首都,現在的首都是奈比多Nay Pyi Daw,於2006正式定案,離仰光320公里,

你也知道的,大城的人民一向資源多、意見多,

如果示威抗議起來,中央政府可要應付得沒完沒了,官員通個車跑遠一點,比較安全,

但是這樣一來,誰會特別跑去奈比多觀光?只不過是個公家辦公地點嘛。
Yangon now is the old capital.

The current capital was designated to be in Day Pyi Daw in 2006,320 kms from Yangon.
As you could have guessed,people living in big city with a lot of social resources,

usually have more opinions,and if they started to protest,

I don't think the central government could deal properly.
Thus,indeed,it's safer for all the officials to work far from Yangon.
It's just one thing,who would run to Nay Pyi Daw particularly for tourism?

After all,it is only a place for doing governmental jobs.

 

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早上跑到頂頭餐廳用餐,順便登高看一下四周,

寬廣又平坦的道路,汽車很多,比較少TukTuk車,

不遠處,就是觀光重點建築物,大金塔,在白日下閃閃發光,看樣子用走的就可以到了,

緬甸不會有人亂按喇叭,這點倒是比印度和部分中國城市強,

啊!不得驚嘆一聲,真的是東南亞主要都市之一,

好像不會輸曼谷很多呢(好啦,有輸一點點,哈哈)。
I went up to the rooftop restaurant for breakfast in the morning,

and took the advantage of my hotel's height to look around the city.

The roads were flat and broad,with many cars running on.

The Tuk Tuk carts seemed to be less if compared to other cities.
It took no any effort to spot the main tourist site,Pagoda Shwedagon,

the big golden tower,shining in broad day light.
I measured with my eyes and it seemed to me I could get there on foot.

It's a good thing that drivers here didn't press horns as they'd liked,or constantly,

unlike the drivers in cities like in India or China.
I couldn't help but exhale a little,Ah~
"Yangon is really one of the top metropolitans in South-Eastern Asia,and it isn't inferior to Bangkok at all."
Fine, maybe Bangkok is better by just a little bit,lol.

 

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好高興喔! 出門去七逃...
佛寺、佛具店、佛雕像藝品店還是很多,

大金塔位於神聖的山丘上,只是沿路往上不會覺得是在爬坡,

山門前是大市場,然後有人放2個竹盤賣蟲蟲當點心吃,

整盤蟋蟀好像蟑螂,還是蚱蜢?我的媽~
Yeah~ so happy,I went out for today's tour.
There were many stores selling Buddhist utensils,handcrafted gifts,

and temples on the way to the golden pagoda.

It was located on the top of the sacred hill in the city,

but I didn't sense a bit that I was hiking up at all.

There's a traditional market at the first gate downhill .

I saw a vendor selling 2 bamboo plates full of fried bugs.

My goodness,they seemed to be crickets? or cockroaches?or grasshopers?
God,no thanks~ 

 

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這個大金塔占地很大,四周又是開闢成市內的重要公園,

整理得不錯,另外,從山下山門到山上的大門還有一段很長的距離,

但是都已經蓋好階梯,鋪好地磚,而且也有遮頂,

階梯兩旁沿途也都有商家,感覺是做成大賣場一樣。
The area that Shwedagon Pagoda occupied is large.A municipal park surrounds it ,

and also an important city park providing many daily activities for citizens.
The distance starts from the first gate to the main front doors is still far away,

and covered fully by a long stairs paved with fine tiles all the way up to the hill.

It seems to be built as a shopping mall with ceiling covered from rain and wind,

for stores that selling goods for worshipping Buddhas,

like flowers ,incenses,and all assortments are either sides on the way up.

大金塔的地位是很尊貴的,保存著有佛家四大鎮山之寶

(包括是拘留孫佛的杖,正等覺金寂佛的淨水器,迦葉佛的袍及佛祖釋迦牟尼的八根頭髮。)

,所以一進山下山門就得拖鞋,基本上管理的水準高於緬甸全國其他地區。

The status of Shwegadon Pagoda is supreme in Myanmar,

and it keeps 4 Buddhist treasures as I've heard.
(It is said,there are the Cane of Buddha Krakucchanda,

the water-clearing container of  Buddha Kanakamuni,

the robe of Buddha Kassapa,and 8 hairs from Buddha.)
In order to show worshippers' respect,I was no exception,

needed to take off my shoes in the very beginning moment of stepping onto its domain,

starting at the first gate downhill.
Thus,the level of management at Shwegadon Pagoda is higher than the average of the whole country.

 

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而進到上層平台後,在樓梯的最上面要經過安檢,

出安檢就要在旁邊售票處買票進入,

若需要聘請導覽員,也是在這邊,

導覽員身上有掛識別證件。
When being upon the upper floor,

I needed to go through the check point right in front of the ticket booths.

Also there were professional tour guides waitting for being hired by tourists

with no mistake by spotting the certificate on their necks.


大金塔的平台上,讓人有如處於佛家淨土世界,

正中當然是意謂
須彌山的佛家極樂世界,

整體環境,有如我在西班牙聖地牙哥古城區一樣的情境,

白瓷磚的地板在露天陽光照耀下,

整個地方彷彿是讓我整個人,被明亮的光包圍著,

這裡是信仰的中心,無上光明的世界。
The plateform is like a Buddhist heaven,a world with supreme above supreme.

In the center of the world comes Mt.Miru,where is like the Olympus to all Greek Deities.
The atmosphere were similiar with the one in Holy City,Santiago Spain.
The  white tiles reflected the sunlight and shone the whole place,

as if I were wrapped in a bright white light.
This is the center of faith, a world of brightness.

 

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遊玩良久,依依不捨下山,

才發現時間尚早,就到附近的Kan Daw Gyi Lake公園散步,

號稱是自然花園,沒甚麼花卉,但是綠樹如蔭,是很好的避暑休憩地點,

湖中長滿了蓮花,岸邊又是綠草,步道都已經鋪上柏油路,

沿湖有多家高檔餐廳和飯店,市中有這麼大範圍的溼地,

非常符合現代化都市的需求,有些角落感覺起來也很美。
I did spend quite a long time in touring around the Grand Golden Pagoda.

However,it was still early to get back my hotel.
I  took a slow walk to the park in Kan Daw Gyi Lake,where was also called as "Natural Garden".

I had found no many flowers inside the park,

but the shades of green trees were clustered,

making it an ideal site for citizens to spend a leisure time.

The lotus flowers decorated on the water here and there,

accompanied with green grass on the banks of the lake.

The trails on the park had been paved with asphalt,

and many restaurants and hotels along the way that surrounding the lake.

It was a large area of wetland and quite fitted to the needs of a modern city.

I'd found some of the corners looked also great.

 

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忍不住找了間百貨公司,才發現東西好便宜 ,

雖然對外國遊客而言是相對落後,但是隨著發展,遲早會趕上的,

人類天性嘛,總會隨時要花錢滿足各種不同的慾望。
I couldn't hold the desir to make some purchases at a nearby department store.

There I found so many things tagged with inexpensive price,

they were more than affordable which was a great news.

As to foreign tourists,the living standard might look a little bit lower.

However,it is just a matter of time for Myanmar to catch up the other countries',

because it's human nature to have our needs satisfied.

And spending is one of the easiest ways,which also boots the economy.

 

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隔天直攻市政廳所在的市中心,號稱"白廟"的蘇雷塔,

隨著時代變遷和都市發展,蘇雷塔是被都市發展後,周遭交通所包圍的孤島,

有如信仰處於驚滔駭浪般的世道,獨立而崇高,

另外,蘇雷塔有個習俗很有趣,

訪客和信徒必須依照當天是一周中的哪天,向著第一圈中固定的某位佛像參拜,

一個禮拜七天,天天不同,

現場也有師兄會教導,

據說蘇雷塔歷史有數千年,但我是存疑的。
The next day I went to visit Sule Pagoda with a nickname of "The White Pagoda" in the center of the city,

where was also the location of City Hall.
Pagoda Sule was totally marooned by city traffics,

like an abandoned isle surrounding by sea waves.

Yet its spirit high and independent.

There was an interesting worshipping custom at Pagoda Sule.
All visitors or worshippers come to worship to a particular Buddha statue depending on the day of a week.
Every day there is a designated Buddha statue to worship to

(I went on Wednesday,so I paid my respect to the Wednesday Buddha.)
The monks of the pagoda offered a free service to all visitors,

by explaining the customary rituals and advices on how to perform thoise rituals.
It said the Pagoda Sule has a long history,but I doubted it.

 

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蘇雷塔前面,連著摩訶班都拉公園,

公園廣場正中矗立著紀念碑Statues of Yali,

廣場的四周建築卻非常有東南亞舊時殖民地的風格,

這區商業氣息濃厚,市鎮廳也在這一帶,

沿著街道逛去,可以往著名"翁山市場"前進。
In the front of Pagoda Sule,there is a large square,where the Park(or garden) of Maha Bandula locates.

In the middle of the park Statues of Yali erect.

Parts of the building around the park square are full of the old colonized motif

like in the other South-Eastern Asian countries.

This district was teemed with dense business atmosphere.

The City Hall was also here. Follow the nearby roads that leading to the famous 
Bogyoke AungSan Market,and where was I heading.

 

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漸入鬧區,有點分不出在新加坡中國城,亦或是在曼谷市區某處,

人來人往的街頭,人聲鼎沸熱鬧得很,

碰到肯德基炸雞就吃了午餐,不輸世界其他都市的樣子,

下午逛了翁山市場,原來是一大棟建築,裡面各層都有一間一間的商店,

有些具有文創風,大部分賣的是手工玉石藝品、服飾等等,

但我跑到對面的百貨公司Junction City去,因為我要逛超市買一點東西用。
I somehow couldn't tell exactly if I were in the China Town in Singapore or

somewhere in Bangkok,when approaching to the business district.
It's a boisterous area in city,people swiftly came and went in the streets.

Then I stopped by a KFC.It wasn't less than other KFC's stores in other places of the world.

I had my lunch there.
I spent the whole afternoon at Bogyoke Aung San Market.

It was a large complex building,with many stores in every floor.
Some stores were decorated with nice ideas,but most of them sold jades,handycrafted ,

or clothing souvenirs.I didn't have any interested in the goods at the market.

So,I went across the road to the department store,Junction City,

for I thought I could find something more useful at the supermarket inside.

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市場裡殖民風的建築很有味道,只是商品不合我胃口,

隔天來到仰光的住宅精華區,茵雅湖和仰光國立大學,

沿湖被開闢成城市公園(西岸),只是中間被私人飯店和企業占住,不能環湖,

這是開發中國家的常見缺點,然而很明顯這城市花園是重中之重,

水準超高,也因此好美麗,非常適合附近住戶散步,

而這附近也有高檔商場、餐廳,可見這附近房價不便宜。
Bogyoke Aung San Market was filled with colonized motif.

Only had I no interested in the goods.
I went to visit the residential essence in Yangon the next day.

It's in the neighborhood of Lake Inya and University of Yangon.
The trails along the lake were developed into a beautiful and long promenade,

a city park(at the west river bank),

but I couldn't take a walk around the lake.

Its land was occupied in the half way by fancy hotels and other enterprises,

which was a common defect here,especially in developing countries.
Thus,the district was the essence in Yangon with much expensive in real estates,

and full of high end markets for rich consumers.

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平日在鄉間走慣了,忽然回到這種都市的現實,感覺有點詫異,

心下也明白,所見所聞正是緬甸未來的櫥窗,

走的方向是東南亞主要城市的風格,由於較晚發展,

可以省略許多創新的投資費用和時間,

加上緬甸自己特有的佛家文化,未來是顯而易見的。
I had been somehow used to visiting in suburban areas in my journey,

the sudden change of getting back to urbanized districts was kind of surreal to me.

Nonetheless I figured that the scenes here in Yangon I had seen were

the futuristic looks of all Myanmarian cities and towns.
It's not a surprise that the orientation of development was heading

to the style of major cities in South-Eastern Asia.
It has some benefits though,due to late blooming in economy,

the government could save quite a lot in investment and time to develop,

and Myanmar has its own unique characteristics,like the religious culture.

Thus,it can be expected and foreseen the future what Myanmar is heading to.

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忽然想起仰光大學經濟學院外面,大樓外掛的一片金屬諍言,

"我們的志向,

在於創造一個有能力面對知識年代挑戰的社會

,並且讓之可以不時學習的教育系統。"
The motto that hang on the wall of the department of Economics

at the University of Yangon,

which stroke me out of blues.
"Our Vision,
To create an education system that can generate a learning society

capable of facing the challenges of the Knowledge Age."

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因此,在回飯店前,故意繞路走到外國大使館區,

那裏有緬甸的人權鬥士翁山蘇姬的家,

看著洋房大門,大門大戶的,

心想如果政治體制不改革,迷失於只迎合利益團體和個人,

人民就會面臨發展風險 ,

這世上本就沒有一帆風順的事,

學習面對未來挑戰,是個戰鬥,本就如此。
Thereafter,I took a detour to the district

that many foreign embassies were and the house of Ong San Su Ki,

the prestigious fighter of Myanmarian human rights located.
I stood in front of its gate,large,thinking

if people got lost in the interests of any beneficial groups or individuals,

what people would face is danger under the absence of reformation  in in politics.
There's no such a thing as free lunch in the world.

Thus,learn to face challenge in the future,as a combat in life, is a must path.

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終於結束此次緬甸之旅,明日就要離開這個國家了,
去柬埔寨吳哥窟休息一下,好多年不曾訪了,不知變得如何?

I finally came to the end of the journey in Myanmar.

I'd be leaving tomorrow for Angkor,Siem Reap,Cambodia,

where I could take a really good break before going on .

It had been a long time not coming to visit it.

I wondered how it had been going in all these years...

 

 

~End~

 

(一)、中南半島戰紀-曼陀羅華盛開的彼岸,前言。

(二)、泰國篇

(2-1),浮光掠影曼谷市

(2-2),赤日曼谷近郊遊

(2-3),繁忙出逃的悠閒窗口

(2-4).泰北

(三)、緬甸篇-菩薩拈花微笑的國度

(3-1.1),曼德勒之路

(3-1.2)、戀戀瓦城-曼德勒市衛星鄉鎮

(3-2).心的最初與最終-浦甘王國與娘烏鎮之蘇拉瑪尼佛塔

(3-3)綠草蒼蒼在水一方-茵萊湖與娘水鎮

(3-4).聖地之天外奇蹟-吉諦瑜大金石

(3-5).預見的的未來-仰光

(四)、柬埔寨篇-錢財湧動下的永恆吳哥

(五)、寮國-揭開面目下的驚艷和惆悵

 (5-1),天地壯闊下的一隅天堂-寮國四千美島

(5-2).美麗新視界-寮國三都(百色、永珍、龍波邦)

 (六)、越南-轉身向前大步疾駛

(6-1).崛起的新勢力-越南中部峴港

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 
 
 
 
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