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(六)、越南-轉身向前大步疾駛
      Turning and Starting to Change fast,Vietnam.
(6-2).南海崢嶸新要角 - 越南胡志明市。
      The New Role of the Competition in South Sea 
      - Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

 

這次旅遊已經在外很久了,感覺要變懶的時候又到了,飯店都還沒訂,等巴士的時候,決定去住濱城市場附近,沒想到都客滿,有沒有搞錯啊?!! 
真的,人不能鐵齒,飯店還是要提早訂的好,我趕快發揮背包客的精神,有得住就好,幸好有善心飯店擠出客房給我,雖然是很便宜的那種,還是很好啊,至少省錢咩~
It's been some time now, I was again feeling it's time to be slothy.I didn't have even booked my hotel yet. I made a causal decision of my next hotel, while I was waiting for the shuttle bus to come at the airport.

There, somewhere near the Ben Thanh Market. That's it.

Unexpectedly I was so amazed to know there's no easy way to check in any hotel in the area without a reservation. All hotels seemed to be fully booked. How could it be?

It's really a headache. Don't get paranoid I told myself to calm down, it's better to have booked a room next time. So...now what? 

Well, I needed to improvise immediately. I kicked off my backpacker's spirit, pleading to have whatever room I could get.
Luckily, someone showed me mercy at last, lol. 
It's cheap, but in my situation at the moment,I didn't feel bad at all. At least, I'd got myself save some money.

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濱城市場是知名的傳統市場,附近各種交通正在路改,建設正如火如荼的進行。
天啊!! 以後...以後不會不見了吧?

濱城市場是複合式的市場,有各式餐廳、服飾、南北貨等等,人潮很多,對我吃喝很是方便,我倒是沒想到好像有很多俄羅斯還是東歐那邊的觀光客呢!
Ben Thanh Market was a well-known traditional market, and...goodness. 
They were revamping and constructing some new traffic infra-structure around it.

My God...Will Ben Thanh Market be still here next time I come to visit?
I hope it wouldn't be gone so soon.

Anyway, it is a complex market, including diverse restaurants, clothing shops,and all kinds of agricultural goods, and so on. Crowds could be seen everywhere.
It provided me a convenient location to dine. I also unexpected to see some tourists, who seemed to come from Eastern Europe or Russia here.

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胡志明市市容的發展,的確不像泰國曼谷那一型,而是更有企圖心,其拚搏的精神隨處可見, 比起中部峴港,更富加有歷史色彩,現代化也高於北部河內,在環南海四周的重點城市中,除了新加坡、曼谷外,就屬異軍突起的胡志明市了。。
Unlike Bangkok, the urban development in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) has been showing great ambition. People's sprit of endeavorment gave me so good an impression.
I say...compared to Da Nang, Saigon tinted with more historical colors, and more modernized if compared to Han Noi in the north.

All major cities that are along the rim of South Sea, except Singapore and Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City stands out from the rest without further question.

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胡志明市處於南海每年總值4.7兆美元的國際出入口,引領的是國內接近1億的消費人口,這點不是新加坡可以比擬的,以後是否能夠在經濟發展的輔助之下,順利轉型成為開放性的政治體制,有賴越南人民的睿智選擇,越南人民的個性堅韌、富有正義黑白,以往長期處於戰爭的摧殘日子,在人民心中留下深刻傷口,因此,要瞭解這個歷史傷痕,莫過於參訪"獨立宮"了。

HCM locates in the rim of South Sea, in an area, where the international trades flow in and out a total amount up to 4.7 trillion U.S.Dollars a year. 
And not just so, HCM acts as an entrance to the consumption of a population of 100 million people in Vietnam's domestic market, Which is not something that Singapore can compete.

I wonder if Vietnam would willingly transform its autocratic regime under the assistance of a successful economical performance in later days, to a more open political system, like democracy?
I think it all depends on people's wise choice and determination.

Vietnam people are usually regarded as persistent and just in nature. They had been for a long time in wars in the past, that left wounds cut deep on people's mind. 
Thus, the best place, where I'd pay a visit in order to understand the history of this part, would be nowhere but Palace of Independence.

 

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建於法國殖民時期,後來成為越南共和國的總統府邸,改稱為獨立府(習慣上也稱"宮"),1975年西貢解放後,改稱統一宮。
The palace was built by French,then it became the Presidential Palace for the South Vietnam Republic, and changed its name to "Palace of Independence."
In 1975, after North Vietnam liberated Saigon, it was changed to today's Palace of Unity.
(But people here still call it "Independence Palace", I also prefer independence, lol, very much.)

時光荏苒,當初南北越內戰造成大量死傷,越南最後也從各軍頭競爭,最終被共產黨統治,然而越共並沒有在越南執行"文化大革命",傳統文化價值在越南仍然保留發展,並且在經濟需求下,逐漸發展成開放的政體,是否類似新加坡,有待日後揭曉,當初在美軍支持下的南越,最終敗亡,這座獨立宮,見證了越戰的結束,也是一個時代的開始。
Time elapses, it had caused tremendous casaulties during civil war. In the end, the Vietnamese Communists won (The ally, USA was defeated.) from all domestic military parties.
Luckily, Vietnam Communists didn't implement " the Cultural Revolution" like China did to its people. Hence, the values of Vietnamese traditions and cultures were kept and then have been passing down to its next generations continuously.

Today's Vietnam, due to the economic growth, it,gradually becomes a compromised political regime.
Will it be another Singapore? I don't know until the future lays out more.

But, South Vietnam was fallen, even with the supports of United States long time ago.
This Palace Independence saw it all. 
It witnessed all. 
Palace Independence, on the other hand, is also a milestone that shows a beginning of an era.

 

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我想獨立宮的各個房室布置和意義,對經過戒嚴時期的台灣人而言,並不陌生,也很容易瞭解那段歷史和氛圍,一般認為越南受過法國殖民,但是近代史上,美國的勢力在越南也扮演舉足輕重的角色,因此,有空來看看,很有意思的。

I think to Taiwanese people,  
every meaning that emits from each room of the palace is a familiar scenario too.
Taiwan also had been through a period of martial curfew. It's easy for us to understand the fragments and atmosphere in the period of history.

 

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景點雖然還不少,但是不太需要花很多時間駐留,路經紅教堂,正在大修特修中,不過我去過法國聖母院了,所以沒覺得怎樣,倒是在路上忽然一撇,看到一位中年人辛苦地背著擦鞋工具,在大熱天向2個年輕的西方人招攬生意,我看了有點生氣,這兩個人就站著腳一伸,要那位擦鞋匠當場蹲下來做工,真是的...
這些人真沒教養,反正以後工廠愈來愈多,這種可能也看不到了。
The tourist sites in the city were plenty, but they couldn't hold me for long.
I went by "Red Church", built in 1880, but it was under maintenance.
I felt all right,for it's the general situation to be an unavailable tourist spot. 
Besides,I have visited the Notre Dame in Paris already.
Maybe next time it would be available for me to visit.

However,I didn't feel right when I glanced at the attitudes of 2 western foreigners to a local man.
The Vietnamese man was soliciting business for shoe cleaning by the curb.
The both western brats stood to stick out their feet directly,which made the man had to kneel down in the public occasion doing his job. 
The shoeman looked like being bullied by these 2 thugs, an awkward situation. 

I don't like people who behave rude and uneducated, simply showing off their superiority with arrogance and stupidity.
Anyway, I don't think this kind of things could be easily seen in near future,because there are more and more job opportunity flowing in.


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紅教堂的旁邊就是另一個景點:西貢中心郵政局。
兩個都是19世紀末法國殖民時期的建物,郵局裡面還保留以前的電報亭,現在變成電話亭,大概為了讓大家觀光用的,裡面都在賣一些雜七雜八的商品,有失望到,這兩個地點花不到1小時。
The Saigon Central Post Office is just adjacent to Red Church, another tourist site comes in handy.
Both buildings were built in the end of the 19th century, during the time of French colony.
The telegram booths could still be found inside the post office, now all turned to a row of telephone booths. 
They might be for the purpose of tourism, for now people are using mobiles.
Many grocery goods could be seen inside, which made me disappointed.
Merely did I stay less than one hour for both spots.

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越南人對信仰很虔誠,以前古時候的皇族死後,隨著後人祭拜會升級成神,佛教在這裡也很興盛,另外受中原文化影響,中國的神明在這裡也有分支,雖然儀規不盡相同,但我們會覺得很親近的,有時在路邊街樹腳,也看到有人燒香膜拜,應該是拜"土地公"這一類的吧? 加上近代西方傳教士將天主教等信仰傳入,是不是跟我們很像?
,所以決定去逛逛"玉皇殿",又稱為"福海寺"。
Vietnamese have high faith in religion.
Even though, in old times, when members of royal family died( usually means the emperors and queens.), people would like to worship them and upgrade them as deities as well.
Buddhism is also prevailing here.
Since Vietnam closes to China in geography, Vietnam is inevitably got influenced by Chinese culture. Thus, Vietnamese also worship Chinese Deities ( making me feel these Deities having branch companies here...lol.), even though the rituals holding here are not exactly the same as in China and other areas of Asia.
However, I felt quite familiar with the religion, and sometimes,I saw burning incenses at the foot of trees at the curbs, that was similar to the way people in Taiwan worshipping "Deities that guard the lands".
Then, it is quite popular to have Christians in Vietnamese society as well. Isn't it like us?

Hence, I'd like to visit an old temple here, Jade Emperor Pagoda. 
(Actually, the concept of "pagoda" as "temple" in English is different from each other, but Vietnam uses it everywhere but not temple.)

福海寺非常古老和傳統(1909),幾乎傳承中原文化,裡面供奉的主題主要是勸人為善的道教,因此供奉著傳統上的地府各殿閻王和眾神明,香火鼎盛,木雕神祇藝術價值很高,但是也可以看到時代改變的痕跡,一進門大廳正前方供奉佛家三聖,阿彌陀佛、觀世音、和大至勢菩薩,即可知是後來加上去的,但是整體氛圍仍是道家為主,因此陰鬱和幽冥感卓然而生,福海寺聲名不差,文化與西方差別很大,因此也可以看到各國旅客前來參訪,這個景點也比郵局和紅教堂強。
Jade Emperor Pagoda is very old and traditional. It was built by Cantonese immigrants in 1909.
Thus, it is not strange to see Chinese elements in it.

The temple's core should be Taoism, because I saw all main deities of that kind,including The Lords of the death world. The temple was filled with smoke and smell of incenses, a feature that means it was truly popular by people. The statues are also old and full of artistic motif.

Nonetheless, I could see the changes through time as I crossed over the front gate thresholds.
There were 3 Main Buddhas put in the first hall. There were Buddha Amitabha, Guan Yi, and Great Power Bodhisattva, which marked the line from the past. Because the pagoda should be a temple of Taoism, not mainly for Buddhism. Thus, they were added in the later days.

However, the atmosphere was bleak, dark,and solemn, but Jade Emperor's fame is good.
Thus, it attracted quite a lot of foreigners to come.
Basically, this tourist spot is generally speaking, stronger than the previous 2, Red Church,and Saigon Center Post Office. 

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廟宇是神明光明正大保佑的地方,我在世界各地也去過不少墳場和教堂,因此,並沒有害怕,只擔心會不會冒犯人家而已,由於主題特殊,步出福海寺後,街頭景色一改變,情緒上也跟著舒緩不少。
Temples are the home of righteous and bright Gods or deities, and I have been many graveyards and churches. Thus, I wasn't afraid at all. All I concerned was if I offended them unintentionally.
The theme of Jade Emperor Pagoda is distinctive and heavy. 
So when I finished the tour, the outside street views refreshed my emotion immediately, for they were so different from the pagoda.

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決定勤勞一點,走去逛號稱越南第一高樓的西貢摩天觀景台。
這一區很新,新開發的商業區,有新店新開張,活動做的滿熱鬧的,連花旗銀行都有了,還有人賣雞排,寫繁體字,不會是台灣過來的吧? 
I made up my mind to spend more efforts by visiting the newest tourist site, the tallest skyscraper in Vietnam, Saigon Sky Deck in the afternoon.
This was a new developed business district. There was a new store open at this moment. The opening campaign attracted boisterous crowds. Citi bank can be seen here too, and there's a store selling fried chicken. The sign was written in traditional Chinese. I wondered if they came from Taiwan!

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我沒有覺得很驚奇,因為超高樓我逛的不少,滿無聊的,西貢摩天樓就跟世界上其他大樓一樣,而且低層樓的百貨商場沒有吸引我,人也沒有想像的多,忽然有一群中國人在觀景台指著前方西貢河小島上的空地,比手畫腳說要建什麼房子,又是來炒地皮的,現在想起來,他們應該沒想到美中會在隔年鬧翻吧!
希望這些中國建商不要害了越南。 
To me, Saigon Sky Deck is one of its peers everywhere in the world, that I have toured too many of them. I wasn't impressed by its height, for it's not the point at all. The department stores set in the lower floors were boring to me, and there weren't many visitors than I had expected.

A group of Chinese came out of blue. They finger pointed the empty land on a little isle on Saigon River,saying something about house building. My goodness, I hoped it's not the Chinese investors who coming to arbitrage the real estates.

Though I don't think they were able to predict the trade war between US and China that exploded in the next year. If they had come to arbitrage from the real estates,then Vietnam would have been in deep trouble already. 

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越南好熱,整個中南半島都很熱,我覺得歐洲也熱,中東也很熱,還是地球根本就在變熱中?
算了,要在胡志明市鬼混個幾天,台灣人其實可以試試"范五老街",這裡是背包客的聚集地,至少住宿可以找到便宜的地方,有時候我覺得這類背包客地點在中南半島很多,泰國最多了,這次在這裡的最後一天,我沒有排什麼行程,胡志明市要說有很特殊景點,對我有點難,但是離高雄超近,飛機shoo一下就到了,今天就直接在路上大型超市買"紀念品",便宜又好、東西多、又不用殺價。

It's so hot...I thought to myself.
Not just here, the whole Peninsula Indo-China is hot, Europe is hot, Middle East is also hot... Perhaps, our mundo is boiling...as hell.
Fine !
Never mind.

You can come and try the district " Khu phố Phạm Ngũ Lão. ", if you like to stay here for more few days. At least you could find cheap accommodation here, where is the famous congregation of backpackers. Cafe shops, restaurants, pubs, or bars can be found within a hand's reach.
This type of location is plenty in South - Eastern Asia, especially in Thailand.

However, it came to the last day of my stay in here. I didn't arrange any schedule at all. Sometimes, it's difficult for me to find a fancy sight in Ho Chi Minh City, but it is very near to my own city, Kaohsiung. It takes only 2 or 3 hours by plane. It's very near.
Thus, I planned to make a direct purchase of " souvenirs" at the supermarkets in the street. It's the easiest way to find goods that are as good as the locals could have. Besides, I didn't need to haggle with the vendors.

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這日走著走著有點意興闌珊,因為表面上,沒有感受到太大的文化衝擊,只有誰比較進步的差別,當然胡志明市目前無法與新加坡相比,但是它也不是沒有自己的優勢,跟泰國曼谷也很有得比拚,未來的胡志明市還須要看政府革新的臉色,新聞說新一代的領導人剛剛上任,他是66歲的阮春福,是自1945年以來,第一個由總理轉升為國家主席的人, 他也是"知台派",曾經在2001-2006年來過台灣多次,台、越關係在疫情後仍會維持開放緊密,讓我們期待著南海地區新的競爭玩家-胡志明市未來的表現,也期待明日會更好。

Walking on, I felt slothy in the sultry sun.
On the other hand, I didn't sense a big difference in culture today. It's only the matter of the degree in development, due to globalization.

Even though HCM city can't compete with Singapore , or needs more exerts to be paralleled with Bangkok, HCM has its own advantages in the Rim of South Sea. Mostly I think it depends largely on government. 

The latest news said, a new national Chairman,  Nguyen Xuan Phuc, aged 66, just got promoted.
He is the first person in Vietnam promoted directly from Prime Minister to National Chairman ever since 1945. He is also familiar with Taiwan. He has visited Taiwan during 2001 -2006 for several times. I believe both countries will keep on the ties at the time of Covid-19 pandemic.

Let us look forward to the performance of this new player , Ho Chi Minh City in near future, and a better tomorrow can be anticipating. 
 

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~ End ~

(一)、中南半島戰紀-曼陀羅華盛開的彼岸,前言。

(二)、泰國篇

(2-1),浮光掠影曼谷市

(2-2),赤日曼谷近郊遊

(2-3),繁忙出逃的悠閒窗口

(2-4).泰北

(三)、緬甸篇-菩薩拈花微笑的國度

(3-1.1),曼德勒之路

(3-1.2)、戀戀瓦城-曼德勒市衛星鄉鎮

(3-2).心的最初與最終-浦甘王國與娘烏鎮之蘇拉瑪尼佛塔

(3-3)綠草蒼蒼在水一方-茵萊湖與娘水鎮

(3-4).聖地之天外奇蹟-吉諦瑜大金石

(3-5).預見的的未來-仰光

(四)、柬埔寨篇-錢財湧動下的永恆吳哥

(五)、寮國-揭開面目下的驚艷和惆悵

(5-1),天地壯闊下的一隅天堂-寮國四千美島

(5-2).美麗新視界-寮國三都(百色、永珍、龍波邦)

(六)、越南-轉身向前大步疾駛

(6-1).崛起的新勢力-越南中部峴港     

 (6-2).南海崢嶸新要角 - 越南胡志明市

(6-3).海天一色、山光水秀美一片 - 北越河內

 

 

 

 

Generally people think Vietnam was colonized by France. Actually, in modern times, US power plays an important role here. Thus, it will be interesting to come to have some fun at your free time.

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